From batteries to Wall power supply

[Casper Christensen]

Hey again, everything that could go wrong did go wrong so i did not get to take the photo of the battery door, sorry. I will today however.

 

[Gryd3]

Hey again, everything that could go wrong did go wrong so i did not get to take the photo of the battery door, sorry. I will today however.

I gotta stop you right there.
No need to say sorry. Take care of yourself, and when you get around to your project the community here will get to it too.
I'm in no hurry, and I can confidently say that no one else is in a huge rush either.

 

[Casper Christensen]

I gotta stop you right there.
No need to say sorry. Take care of yourself, and when you get around to your project the community here will get to it too.
I'm in no hurry, and I can confidently say that no one else is in a huge rush either.

Ay ay sir! Thanks I just don't like to make people waiting

Anyway, here is the image of the compatment door
http://i.imgur.com/T3s7pun.jpg

 

[Gryd3]

Of course... it's covered with plastic.
Do you have a mutli-meter by chance or any other test equipment?

 

[Casper Christensen]

Of course... it's covered with plastic.
Do you have a mutli-meter by chance or any other test equipment?

Unfortunately i do not :/

 

[Gryd3]

Ew... well. I could assume that little metal post that makes contact to the lid is a + input, but assuming can be dangerous
The negative input would be down the hole for the leftmost battery most likely (but could be rightmost)
Do you have the spare cash to pick up an entry level meter from a local electronic shop?
Analog or digital. Digital would be easiest for you.
Make sure it does resistance, DC voltage and AC voltage at the very least.
It will most likely cost less than most video games.

It's that or you can build something to test continuity.
Grab a light, buzzer, motor, etc... and a battery to power it.
One wire from the battery will be 'probe A', the second wire from the battery will go the the indicator. (light, motor, buzzer, etc) and the last free wire from the other side of the indicator will be 'probe B'.

Simply put the probe A and B on the different metal parts on the lid to see if the indicator turns on. If it does, you know which ones are connected.
Be careful using this though... because if you try to do the same thing with the torch, you could accidentally send a harmful voltage into the device. It will however, function just fine for testing things like the lid.

 

[Casper Christensen]

Ew... well. I could assume that little metal post that makes contact to the lid is a + input, but assuming can be dangerous
The negative input would be down the hole for the leftmost battery most likely (but could be rightmost)
Do you have the spare cash to pick up an entry level meter from a local electronic shop?
Analog or digital. Digital would be easiest for you.
Make sure it does resistance, DC voltage and AC voltage at the very least.
It will most likely cost less than most video games.

It's that or you can build something to test continuity.
Grab a light, buzzer, motor, etc... and a battery to power it.
One wire from the battery will be 'probe A', the second wire from the battery will go the the indicator. (light, motor, buzzer, etc) and the last free wire from the other side of the indicator will be 'probe B'.

Simply put the probe A and B on the different metal parts on the lid to see if the indicator turns on. If it does, you know which ones are connected.
Be careful using this though... because if you try to do the same thing with the torch, you could accidentally send a harmful voltage into the device. It will however, function just fine for testing things like the lid.

I might ask stupid now! I think i get what you mean, but to be completely sure, could you possibly make a drawing in paint or something?
I think if i had a drawing or a picture to go after i could do it!

(Sorry if my questions seems stupid to you but my knowledge in this is far close to never existent)

I'm a big Minecraft geek for my age! But i think the torch would fit perfect under the pickaxe: http://i.imgur.com/LhICoN4.jpg?2

 

[Gryd3]

I might ask stupid now! I think i get what you mean, but to be completely sure, could you possibly make a drawing in paint or something?
I think if i had a drawing or a picture to go after i could do it!

(Sorry if my questions seems stupid to you but my knowledge in this is far close to never existent)

I'm a big Minecraft geek for my age! But i think the torch would fit perfect under the pickaxe: http://i.imgur.com/LhICoN4.jpg?2

I can't draw at the moment, but I found this:
http://s8.photobucket.com/user/JohnC1952/media/DSC02066.jpg.html

It's using a buzzer and a 9V battery. You can use anything you want though, just so long as it does something (move, buzz, light-up)
Does this help?

 

[BobK]

Can you disassemble the device a bit more? To where we can see the wires coming from the battery compartment.

Bob

 

[Casper Christensen]

Can you disassemble the device a bit more? To where we can see the wires coming from the battery compartment.

Bob

I'm afraid i cannot. If force it open im afraid it will break. It's like it's clued everywhere and when i try to dissemble it, it makes these "cracking but not exactly cracking" sounds. If you know what i mean :/

 

[Gryd3]

I'm afraid i cannot. If force it open im afraid it will break. It's like it's clued everywhere and when i try to dissemble it, it makes these "cracking but not exactly cracking" sounds. If you know what i mean :/

It could have a series of clips along the perimeter... and the cracking could be the plastic shifting against itself... If it worries you, the only other option I can think of is finding exactly how the lid is connected internally with some sort of test device. Sure, assumptions can be made, but I don't like making assumptions with someone else's device

 

[Casper Christensen]

It could have a series of clips along the perimeter... and the cracking could be the plastic shifting against itself... If it worries you, the only other option I can think of is finding exactly how the lid is connected internally with some sort of test device. Sure, assumptions can be made, but I don't like making assumptions with someone else's device

To be honest, I'm willing to take the risk and make assumptions

 

[Gryd3]

To be honest, I'm willing to take the risk and make assumptions

It's that or glue! ... or Ultrasonic weld...
Go slow, and use a thin blade to help keep it apart as you make progress. (Flat head screwdrivers leave little marks in where the plastic attempt to close on the bit.)
You will know for sure what it is when you first begin to make progress. Go slow to begin with, and you should be fine.

*Be sure that anything you use to keep it apart does not pierce or cut anything inside.

 

[chopnhack]

I agree with go slow, but in my experience with opening these mass produced consumer goods, the plastic is slightly bent and depending on the type of plastic, sometimes retains a memory and does not reseat as tight. Given that should not pose a structural problem for this device as it looks quite light, one would simply glue the joints if the internal clips broke. That being said, I find that to be a colossal pain...

What if we simply supplied the circuit with power via a current limiting resistor and a pot and slowly ramp up the current? That should protect the circuit and perhaps save a lot of time. I know we don't want to assume, but this does seem like a simple device whose only job is to provide illumination and does so in only one of two positions, on or off.

 

[Gryd3]

I agree with go slow, but in my experience with opening these mass produced consumer goods, the plastic is slightly bent and depending on the type of plastic, sometimes retains a memory and does not reseat as tight. Given that should not pose a structural problem for this device as it looks quite light, one would simply glue the joints if the internal clips broke. That being said, I find that to be a colossal pain...

What if we simply supplied the circuit with power via a current limiting resistor and a pot and slowly ramp up the current? That should protect the circuit and perhaps save a lot of time. I know we don't want to assume, but this does seem like a simple device whose only job is to provide illumination and does so in only one of two positions, on or off.

The only step we are missing at the moment is determining which battery hole is connected to the power line to the board... and which ones are simply a jumper to the next battery.
This solution would work as well. Only concern I would have is shorting a battery out if two contacts that are jumpered together are tested. But the equipment used for this would be the same as building a small test light to test how the battery lid is internally connected.

 

[Casper Christensen]

My experience with the torch so far:
Indestructable: That beeing said. If i put any more muscles into it (more than i have now) i have the feeling it will break completely with a big CRACK. Neither by force or inserting a thin blade. I could smash it against a hard object but that would do no good Im starting to think the entire thing is just "clicked together" and is "unclickable" the other way. Like a fish hook if you know what i mean.

I have simple and foolish question now which seems simple and plain, TO ME at least: Can't i just take my telephone charger (charger for an iPhone 4s) remove the isolation and just press the wire against one of the poles in the battery compartment for the torch? Why did they make electronics so damn complicated

I'm getting frustrated! Now i started the project and when i say A i say B as well

I'm sorry if you find me stupid with my questions...

 

[chopnhack]

I'm sorry if you find me stupid with my questions...

You are not stupid, we are just trying to prevent damage to the device. That being said, if it is likely to damage the shell by trying to open it, the next logical step is to supply the prongs with 3 batteries in series and find out which terminals will be the ones we need to access. I would use a resistor in series to limit the current going into the device, but its likely the device has some sort of limitation built in and since its powered by three batteries to begin with, it should be safe.

 

[Casper Christensen]

and since its powered by three batteries to begin with, it should be safe.

I doub't that an iPhone charger would be too strong compared to 3 batteries.

 

[Gryd3]

You are not stupid, we are just trying to prevent damage to the device. That being said, if it is likely to damage the shell by trying to open it, the next logical step is to supply the prongs with 3 batteries in series and find out which terminals will be the ones we need to access. I would use a resistor in series to limit the current going into the device, but its likely the device has some sort of limitation built in and since its powered by three batteries to begin with, it should be safe.

I would be more than willing to stick a 5V source on one of my 4.5V devices...
Trial and error to figure out which battery contact is the one that goes to the board. This trial and error may result in you shorting the output of the charger together.

I have attached an image of what I 'think' would be the most logical connections...
Green = Jumper in the battery lid.
Blue = Jumper inside the unit.
Red = Probable + voltage connection.
White = Probable - voltage connection.

 

[Casper Christensen]

I just tried something! I dont know if we can use it for our information but i made a dummy battery (kind of) with some spare wire for our antenna. I isolated the ends aof it and made it as long as the original battery sitting in the torch. So basically it is now lighting up from only 2 batteries. I'll use to photo below to demonstrate it.