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fluorescent light switch

Discussion in 'General Electronics' started by Jeff Zimmerman, Feb 2, 2004.

  1. I just bought one of those magnifiers with a built in light, that is
    on an adjustable arm from a second hand store for $0.49. The switch
    for the light is broken though.
    The light only has a transformer, so the switch has to start the light
    as well,
    It's a 22W bulb with four connections, 2 white and 2 black

    I have a switch off of another fluorescent light that I think i can
    use, but I cant figure out how to connect it to the new bulb, there
    are 4 terminals on the switch and there is a capacitor across two of
    them and these two go directly to two terminals on the bulb (one on
    each end).

    how do i connect it? Also, the bulb on the other light that i'm
    getting the switch from is 15W, is it safe to use the switch with the
    new 22W bulb? (i cant find a rating on the switch)
     
  2. JeffM

    JeffM Guest

    Jeff Zimmerman
    Actually, it's a ballast
    http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=...0&hl=en&lr=lang_en&ie=UTF-8&safe=off&filter=0
    See link.

    Both work at a low current, so I would say yes.
     
  3. So would the 2 white wires be considered one side of the bulb and the
    2 black the other side?

    Also, what makes the light turn off? the switch i have is just a
    momentary switch.

    On the magifying light, should there be a capacitor somewhere to
    "start" the bulb?
     
  4. JeffM

    JeffM Guest

    On the magifying light,
    The diagram I referenced is the simplest (2-switch) configuration.
    The (momentary=open) ON switch is closed during operation
    and the (momentary=closed) START switch gets things going.

    If you can see a "starter" canister, read this:
    http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=...-1&safe=off&q=jeffm_+noble&btnG=Google+Search
    The starter replaces the START switch.

    If you don't have a starter and have only 1 switch,
    I assume that it rocks one direction for START and the other for OFF.
    That would mean that both of the switches in my diagram
    are integrated into that one unit. Am I correct so far?
    If so, you must identify which contacts are closed
    when the rocker is in the center position
    and which contacts close when pushed to START.

    To swap parts, both the unit to be repaired and the scavenged unit
    must be the same type (starter-type or switch-only type).
     
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