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fixing and AVR speaker switch

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by dan76n, Apr 10, 2012.

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  1. dan76n

    dan76n

    6
    0
    Apr 10, 2012
    Hi All,
    I have an old Sony AVR which has a faulty speaker switch.
    I was hoping to either fix it or bypass the switch but need some advise.
    The model is an STR1080 and the switch controls two sets of speakers.
    Speaker "A", Speaker "B" Speaker "A+B" or speakers "off"
    I have included some pictures of the switch removed.
    I have been unable to find a replacement switch so would be willing to bypass it so speaker "A" or "A+B" is set to permanently on.
    Any advise would be great.
    I have attached a picture of the back and front of the switch.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. nepow

    nepow

    99
    1
    Jul 18, 2011
    The chances of getting a replacement switch are very remote. You may be able to dismantle the switch and clean up the contacts if they are not pitted and well worth a try _ nothing to loose. Rotary wafer switches can be sourced if room exists for mounting an alternative!! Otherwise bypassing the switch is the remaining option.
    Regards
     
  3. dan76n

    dan76n

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    0
    Apr 10, 2012
    Thanks for that.
    If I was to want to just bypass how do I go about working out what points to connect?
     
  4. CocaCola

    CocaCola

    3,635
    5
    Apr 7, 2012
    Crack it open and visually inspect what connections are made as you turn the dial?

    Or take a continuity checker and see what connections still work as you rotate it and try to piece together the puzzle...
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2012
  5. timothy48342

    timothy48342

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    Nov 28, 2011
    If the switch still works a little bit, you could put an ohmeter on the pins 2 at a time to see which are connected for each position of the switch. Cycle through the 4 positions, "off", "A", "B", "A+B" and keep on testing until you understand how the switch connects when it is working right.

    It looks like their are 5 pins, so it might be that 4 pins are never connected to each other and the 5th pin connects to exactly 1 of the other 4 pins for each setting. But, that's just a guess. You need to know for sure.

    If it doesn't work at all, you could disassemble the switch and like nepow said, see if it can be cleaned or repaired, but if it can't, then learn how the switch connects internally. See which pins get connected for each switch position. You need to find that out.

    You might take a look at the circuit board where it connects. Is there any printing of the board there that could give a clue?

    Also, just for clarity, is this the switch as it normally would be?
    [​IMG]

    --tim
     
  6. dan76n

    dan76n

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    Apr 10, 2012
    Yes that's the switch thanks.
    I will take a look at it over the weekend.
     
  7. KJ6EAD

    KJ6EAD

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    157
    Aug 13, 2011
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2012
  8. dan76n

    dan76n

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    Apr 10, 2012
    Thanks for that. I had a closer look at the switch and it has ALPS printed on the front metal plate. It also has "0qC" on the side prong which is linked to the front plate.
    On the back the numbers 1-10 are placed in line with each of the 10 prongs.

    Is there any way of me finding out which switch it is with this info?
     
  9. KJ6EAD

    KJ6EAD

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    Aug 13, 2011
    As it probably was a custom production run for Sony, only they or ALPS or one of their authorized service providers would know. This switch or one like it was used on many Sony receivers so perhaps you can scrounge one from a dead unit or a thrift store.

    What's the complete receiver model # from the back panel?
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  10. timothy48342

    timothy48342

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    Nov 28, 2011
    If it is one of the switches listed on the page that KJ5EAD linked to then, YES you can figure out which one. Click KJ5EAD's link and you'll see 10 links to 10 switches in a chart with some info about each.

    They are all very similar. Look at collumn 3, "positions." You have a 4-position. There are 2 of those, the only difference is the actuator length, 15mm or 20mm.

    To find which actuator length you have, click the "part number" and you get a very detailed description of the switch with drafting diagrams. You should be able to see if it an exact match.

    (If it is not an exact match, stop here... otherwise continue.)

    The only difference in all 10 of these switches is the length of the actualtor and how many dummy terminals it has. The 8 position switch has no dummy terminals. The 4 position switch has 4 dummies. There is a circuit diagram showing how the terminals are numbered and underneath that it shows which terminal numbers are the dummy ones. You should be able to tell from that and the diagram which terminal is for each position, "off", "A", "B", "A+B".

    (Note in that diagram that the switch uses 2 commons, #1 and #10, so if you decide to hard-wire a bypass to the switch you would want to connect both of those to your destination terminal.)

    There is also a "where to buy" link at the top. Click your country and you get distributors and phone numbers.

    -tim
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2012
  11. dan76n

    dan76n

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    Apr 10, 2012
    Thanks for the in depth post Tim. The acuator is slightly different in that mine has the 12mm cut bit that holds the knob on, "L1" in the diagram. But this extends all the way to the thread.
    Also there are no listed distributors in Australia.
    How will I work out what to hardware it so "A" is permanently on?
     
  12. KJ6EAD

    KJ6EAD

    1,114
    157
    Aug 13, 2011
    The switch you have is not standard stock. It has 2 poles (one for each audio channel) on opposite sides of the disk with 4 throws each.
     
  13. dan76n

    dan76n

    6
    0
    Apr 10, 2012
    I managed to take the switch apart and it looked like the contact points had lost their spring so were loosing contact. I bent them up a little and put it back together, soldered it back in and everything works except speaker setting "B". By this I mean speakers B work when the switch is set to "A+B" but not when set to "B".
    I will have another look at it at a later date. I will post some pictures of the inside of the switch tomorrow as well.
     
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