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Fixing a Toshiba scan converter

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by [email protected], Dec 6, 2005.

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  1. Guest

    Has anyone done one ? I forget, but the ones in the fdx or hdx series.
    I suspect they're all the same.

    They were on backorder for quite awhile and we finally got it and the
    set is fixed and gone, and the money is probably spent, but I was
    looking at the old one.

    There are several SMD caps on the module that check bad and some are
    not even recognized by the cap checker. Some of these are near two
    identical ICs that each have two crystals nearby. I reckon these are
    digital clock"ing" chips and with the symptom I think it may be

    In this particular specimen there appears to be no capacitor piss, or
    at least the resultant corrosion.

    The symptom is that there is constant piecrusting in the main image
    only, the PIP is good and the OSD is good. It is not a sweep problem.
    It is because the set does not run 480i even on an NTSC input, and the
    PIP uses a seperate scan converter for obvious reasons.

    The problem used to be only when the set was cold.

    Two plus two have at least come up to three here. Thus my plan; a
    friend has a Toshiba with exactly the same problem, so I made a deal
    with the shop, I will replace all the bad caps on company time, the
    only way to see if this worked is for me to go install it in my
    friend's set. These things are $280 list, so we agreed, if it works
    I'll bring $100.

    Now a question, who owns my buddy's old board which will be abandoned
    to me ?

    I don't have the tools at home anymore to fix it, the boss sold me a
    board which was a pull, they pulled it, cust didn't want it, it is
    theirs until I give them money.

    I will append this later with more info, and later when I know if the
    fix worked. I'd like your input, especially if you've fixed one, but I
    also post this to share the info.

    For those of you who want raw data : I found at least 6 marginal
    capacitors, 3 bad and 2 that weren't even recognized as caps by the
    checker. The symptom used to go away when warmed up.

    2+2= ?

  2. John-Del

    John-Del Guest

    I've done at least ten of these boards for various video\piecrusting
    issues. I believe the 10uf caps were the culprits, but in any case
    there are two at the top rail that need to be replaced. Not one came

  3. Guest

    Thanks, that's encouraging.

    So now I took the ESR checker to it again and am now replacing 29 of
    them. Most of the 10s are bad and I think all of the 22s. I wonder how
    the thing ran so long, I mean at this point some of those caps could be
    so non critical application wise they could probably be removed, but
    who knows which ones.

    I have some theories about how to service stuff like this in the future
    as the bottom and top lines put the financial squeeze on us.

    To start, think about this; just what makes them use a 22 instead of a
    10 ?

    1. If HF needs to be bypassed they won't use those shitty performance
    caps unless they have a smaller cap as an HF shunt.

    2. The capacity tolerance makes it so they almost never use SMD caps
    for any timing.

    The only exception to #2 might be that they are trying to manage
    startup and shutdown. I mean they want certain sources to come up or go
    down faster than others. I have indeed seen Mits PIP modules that
    seemed identical except for SMD cap values. Of course that doesn't mean
    they were in an identical chassis, prehaps it has something to do with
    the set having a different power supply. Choosing the wrong values
    could possibly hurt reliability by causing unwanted surge currents
    during starup or shutdown.I will tread carefully when messing with
    other people's designs, but I will indeed tread.

    Not in rebuttal to #1, but there is another factor. Even with HF help
    from a ceramic or other decent cap the need to filter the current
    fluctuations on the actual wires from the power supply, and foil
    traces. The lower frequency components of this hash do not need to be
    supressed completely, so they can get away with the cheapo caps.

    Might take a little experimentation to figure out the best way to do

  4. Just replace all of the 10uf ones. That is the standard rebuild on these

    Jeff Stielau
    Shoreline Electronics Repair
    344 East Main Street
    Clinton,CT 06413
    860-664-3535 (fax)

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