Fix for halogen lamp socket?

[DaveC]

A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each pin
contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded to
hold the pin.

Over time, these socket halves have pitted due to the extreme heat.
Connection is now intermittent. If I hold the bulb at an angle (usually twist
it in the socket a bit), the bulb goes full brightness. But left on its own,
it flickers and buzzes.

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the
contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my
choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and
whenever the bulb gives out.
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DaveC
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[Zak]

A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each pin
contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded to
hold the pin.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my
choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and
whenever the bulb gives out.

A replacement socket from a cheap fixture, or a screw connection. The
metal bits from a 'kroonsteentje' (the nowadays plastic screw connectors
used to connect lamp cords to the ceiling wiring) might work.


Thomas

 

[Yukio YANO]

A

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the
contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

use a small amount of SILICONE grease on point of contact to stop the oxidation and lower the temperature at point of contact.

Yukio YANO

 

[Palindr☻me]

A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each pin
contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded to
hold the pin.

Over time, these socket halves have pitted due to the extreme heat.
Connection is now intermittent. If I hold the bulb at an angle (usually twist
it in the socket a bit), the bulb goes full brightness. But left on its own,
it flickers and buzzes.

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the
contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my
choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and
whenever the bulb gives out.

Soldering is probably not a good idea for many reasons.

You could look around for a (cheap) lamp that takes the same
bulb and swap the bulb-holder.

You may be able to build up the contacts again using
electroplating. With time, patience and mask resist this can
rebuild all sorts of irreplaceable items.

You could make up a couple of new connectors using a lathe
(or a bench drill, if pushed) - a brass bar drilled to allow
it to be crimped on to the wires and screw-fastened on to
the bulb pin is easy to make and vry effective.

You could use a different type of bulb - eg a small
automobile halogen type with long wire-ends. You can them
move the connection point to somewhere cooler and easier to
manage.


HTH

 

[Gary J Tait]

A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each pin
contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded to
hold the pin.

Over time, these socket halves have pitted due to the extreme heat.
Connection is now intermittent. If I hold the bulb at an angle (usually twist
it in the socket a bit), the bulb goes full brightness. But left on its own,
it flickers and buzzes.

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the
contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my
choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and
whenever the bulb gives out.

I'd get a new pin contact assembly.

 

[DaveC]

use a small amount of SILICONE grease on point of contact to stop the
oxidation and lower the temperature at point of contact.

Hmm... don't want to get grease *into* the connection, do I? Silicon grease
is an insulator.

Exactly how will this lower the temperature? The grease, as I understand it,
is a conductor of heat, but without a heat sink to conduct the heat *to*,
grease alone won't help, will it?

Or am I missing something important here?
--
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ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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[spudnuty]

Yes, I went through something like this. My local distributor, Marshall
Electric had about 7 different ceramic bipost bases with pigtails
available. You'll probably need a crimper to make the connection. BTW I
repaired film equipment some time ago when these bipost or end
connected Halogen lights first came in use. They were always
developing problems at the connection point. The only repair was new
bases. These were 250, 500, 750 1K or 2 K watts.
Richard

 

[Guy Macon]

Hmm... don't want to get grease *into* the connection, do I? Silicon grease
is an insulator.

So is air, but you don't mind having that in your connector.

As long as the grease isn't too thick, the metal will make contact.

Exactly how will this lower the temperature? The grease, as I understand it,
is a conductor of heat, but without a heat sink to conduct the heat *to*,
grease alone won't help, will it?

The idea is that the pin and socket are heat sinks and the tiny point
of contact is the heat source to be sinked. Not much power there,
but a large energy density.

Also, reducing oxidation lowers contact resistance and lowers the
temperature.

That being said, silicone grease is a band-aid for when you keep
having oxidation problems in a connector you can't replace.
Far better to have the right connector.

 

[none]

Yes, I went through something like this. My local distributor, Marshall
Electric had about 7 different ceramic bipost bases with pigtails
available. You'll probably need a crimper to make the connection. BTW I
repaired film equipment some time ago when these bipost or end
connected Halogen lights first came in use. They were always
developing problems at the connection point. The only repair was new
bases. These were 250, 500, 750 1K or 2 K watts.
Richard

I've worked with these fixtures as well.
You can clean off the contact points with a dremel and a wire brush.
electro plating them can also help. gold plating will stop corrosion
and help keep arc build up to a minumim.
silver or chrome is a low cost alternative.

 

[Gary J Tait]

Hmm... don't want to get grease *into* the connection, do I? Silicon grease
is an insulator.

Exactly how will this lower the temperature? The grease, as I understand it,
is a conductor of heat, but without a heat sink to conduct the heat *to*,
grease alone won't help, will it?

Or am I missing something important here?

The pin on the lamp will displace enough silicoine to make an
electrical connetion. The silicone will keep the metals from
oxidising. My worry is the heat melting the silicone enough to cause
it to ooze out.

 

[James Sweet]

The pin on the lamp will displace enough silicoine to make an
electrical connetion. The silicone will keep the metals from
oxidising. My worry is the heat melting the silicone enough to cause
it to ooze out.

I would just replace the socket personally, there's a few oddballs, but most
of them are reasonably available.

 

[Don Klipstein]

The pin on the lamp will displace enough silicoine to make an
electrical connetion. The silicone will keep the metals from
oxidising. My worry is the heat melting the silicone enough to cause
it to ooze out.

Although replacing the socket with a better one is preferred, I do dare
to say that I consider heat an unlikely enemy of silicone. If it is
liquid enough to get in at room temperature, I expect it be only a little
more liquid 500 degrees F or 275 degrees C hotter.

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])

 

[DaveC]

http://k.domaindlx.com/magdesh/Socket.jpg
--
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ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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[Chris]

A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each pin
contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded to
hold the pin.

Over time, these socket halves have pitted due to the extreme heat.
Connection is now intermittent. If I hold the bulb at an angle (usually twist
it in the socket a bit), the bulb goes full brightness. But left on its own,
it flickers and buzzes.

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the
contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my
choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and
whenever the bulb gives out.
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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There is only one answer.

Replace the lamp holder AND the globe. You need super clean contacts with
all that current going thru them.

 

[DaveC]

Chris, what do you have against re-tinning them contacts ? it's cheap

easy, effective and good as new. you don't sell them by any chance }

Roy

I like the solder solution, but these contacts are beyond fixing, I think:

http://k.domaindlx.com/magdesh/socket2.jpg
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DaveC
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[Keith Jewell]

A slightly less temporary but still temporary fix is to add some copper
strands to the clean socket, between the pins and contacts. Hey, it
works for the bases of 750w EHG bipin lamps ...

-Keith

 

[DaveC]

A slightly less temporary but still temporary fix is to add some copper
strands to the clean socket, between the pins and contacts. Hey, it
works for the bases of 750w EHG bipin lamps ...

Soldered to the contact surface? Or just stuffed in?
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DaveC
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[Chris]

I like the solder solution, but these contacts are beyond fixing, I think:

Absolutely!

Go to your nearest electrical wholesaler/lighting store and get the spare
parts. That lamp holder looks like a common garden variety (and is cheap) -
AND pick up a new globe at the same time.

I think it would be the least hassle.

Cheers.

 

[Jerry G.]

You can go to any lighting electrical supply centre, and buy these sockets
new. It is not safe to start messing with these. A new socket would be
guaranteed to work properly, and safely.

--

Jerry G.
======


A nice designer desk lamp uses those l.v. (12v) 2-pin halogen lamps. Each
pin
contact in the socket consists of 2 C-shaped halves that are spring-loaded
to
hold the pin.

Over time, these socket halves have pitted due to the extreme heat.
Connection is now intermittent. If I hold the bulb at an angle (usually
twist
it in the socket a bit), the bulb goes full brightness. But left on its own,
it flickers and buzzes.

I removed the bulb and using a very small rat tail file, cleaned up the
contacts, but this was only a temporary fix.

This is a nice (and expensive) lamp that I'd like to keep. What are my
choices? I guess I could solder the lamp to the socket components now and
whenever the bulb gives out.
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
[email protected]
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

 

[Lee]

Try here. You may need the lamp code, but they probably have what you
need. http://www.mitronix.com/products.php

Lee