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Electrically conductive paint?

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Dallas, Dec 2, 2005.

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  1. Dallas

    Dallas Guest

    In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
    membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
    contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
    remote under the push buttons)

    I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
    surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
    can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
    again.

    Does anyone know where to get something like that?


    Dallas
     
  2. Dave D

    Dave D Guest

    Electrically conductive silver paint for repairing car windscreens has
    served me well in the past, and it's readily available at car shops. It's
    rather pricey but it does the job.

    Eventually it may need recoating as it's not really intended to flex, but
    even a small bottle would do hundreds of jobs in this application.

    Dave
     
  3. Dave D

    Dave D Guest

    Sorry, I meant for repairing rear window demister elements.

    Dave
     
  4. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Guest

    There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
    conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic parts
    suppliers, who supply parts for TV and electronic device servicing.
    Note that the cost is not cheap.

    Jerry G.

    --
     
  5. Dave D

    Dave D Guest

    I've also had some success with self adhesive aluminium tape. I cut it into
    small squares and stick it over the faulty rubber pads. It usually works
    great but like the silver paint job will not necessarily last for years.
    Having said that, a roll of tape would do hundreds of remotes and it's
    pretty cheap stuff. It has the advantage of flexiing with the pad, whereas
    the silver paint may eventually wear out or crack..

    Dave
     
  6. Dallas

    Dallas Guest

    "Jerry G."
    No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick Google
    turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to this product?

    Dallas
     
  7. Dallas

    Dallas Guest

    "Dave D"
    Yeah, I've heard of that stuff... if I can't find the repair kit it sounds
    like the second best option.


    Dallas
     
  8. Guest

    Tried one of those on a JVC remote about a year ago, cost around $15
    for the repair kit. Two-part epoxy kind of thing, had to mix it and use
    it
    within 15 or 20 minutes, throw out whatever was left over.

    Remote worked great for 2 or 3 months, then the repair gunk started
    wearing off, and I was back where I started. Ended up ordering a
    replacement remote from JVC website, cost around $20 with shipping,
    and it's still working fine.

    If I got a do-over, I would just order the new remote and forget about
    the repair kit. Might think differently if the new remote had been
    more
    expensive. YMMV.

    If the OP wants to check into the repair kits, I bought mine at Circuit
    Specialists in Mesa, AZ (local to me) (www.circuitspecialists.com).

    Hope this helps,
    Jerry
     
  9. Arfa Daily

    Arfa Daily Guest

    I know that this is slightly off topic from what the poster was originally
    asking, but I've had great success in the past, repairing conductive pad
    type keymats, by carefully scalpelling off the worn out pad, doing the same
    for a good pad from a scrap remote or telephone keypad, then supergluing the
    ' replacement ' onto the original mat. That way, you've got an almost
    original pad, that feels original, and won't suffer from cracking like the
    paint.

    Arfa
     
  10. default

    default Guest

    ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

    Most of the ones I come into contact with show oil (for lack of a
    better descriptor) on the pads used frequently. The oil must be in
    the pads themselves . . . from what I see. The center PB will have
    oil and none to either side (on some). I don't believe it migrates.

    This 'oil" seems to insulate the switch contacts. and appears on the
    frequently used switches.

    My cure has been isopropyl alcohol with a swab to the pad and paper
    towel (toilet paper or napkin) to the board That fixes it like new
    for about a month . . .

    Aluminum foil with a thin (VERY THIN) RTV coating seems to work
    longer but still not as long as the original pad coatings.

    Only 100% fix seems to be replacing the key pad with a tiny surface
    mount switch - - - if you can solder it, or see well enough . . .
     
  11. Ken Weitzel

    Ken Weitzel Guest

    Hi...

    I wonder how dag would do? (aquadag)

    www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf

    Take care.

    Ken
     
  12. Ross Herbert

    Ross Herbert Guest


    This is the product you are searching for
    http://www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?r=2&m=2&id=196

    I have used it in the past but results are dependent upon several
    factors, not the least of which is how long the product has been
    sitting on the shelf. Because you use only a tiny amount to repair a
    typical rubber keypad you tend not to want to throw the remainder away
    afterwards because you may have to repeat the exercise in a couple of
    years. By then the product will not produce reliable results so it is
    basically useless after opening and using it the first time. Ideally,
    a whole batch of rubber keypads repaired at the same time is the only
    way it is cost effective. Having said that, if you have no other way,
    then $12 might seem a cheap option to keep your remote operating.

    The company I previously purchased this product from now lists it in
    their catalogue as FAULTY.

    The same company also make a conductive epoxy
    http://www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?id=186 and whilst not
    indicated as suitable for rubber keypad repairs I would still give it
    a try since it should last longer than the other product. If it
    doesn't work it is not hard to remove it.

    Ross Herbert
     
  13. DaveM

    DaveM Guest


    Surf over to MCM Electronics at http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ and search
    for part number CW2605. Circuit Works Rubber Keypad Repair Kit.

    --
    Dave M
    MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in
    the address)

    Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!
     
  14. Larry

    Larry Guest

    DaveM wrote:
    : : : "Jerry G."
    : : : There is a remote control service kit available for the keypad
    : : : conductor repair. This kit is available at many of the electronic
    : : : parts suppliers,
    : :
    : : No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick
    : : Google turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to
    : : this product?
    : :
    : : Dallas
    : :
    : :
    :
    :
    : Surf over to MCM Electronics at http://www.mcmelectronics.com/ and
    : search for part number CW2605. Circuit Works Rubber Keypad Repair
    : Kit.
    ***

    I have had great sucess super gluing a small circle of aluminum foil on
    the defective rubber pad. If it's only 1 or 2 not working, it is a
    quick job and a cheap solution.

    Larry
     
  15. Bob in Phx

    Bob in Phx Guest

    Well, as an amateur, here is what I have found works.

    1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best
    way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
    2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to
    clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber
    cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old
    kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of
    minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about
    three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....

    Just my two cents...

    bob in phx.
    in message
     
  16. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest

    Simple Green works very well too, sucks the oil right out of your hands too.
     
  17. Ray L. Volts

    Ray L. Volts Guest

    If the hardware store aluminum tape doesn't work for ya, you might try
    self-adhesive aluminum sheets (sometimes sold as mirrored mylar) which can
    be found at hobby shops that concentrate on model kits, scale trains or RC
    aircraft. These sheets are available in very thin, highly-flexible
    versions -- they can be burnished right over fine aircraft details like
    rivets.
     
  18. CRaSH

    CRaSH Guest

    Go to sci.electronics.repair and you'll get some info from the pro repair
    folks - name it, and someone's done it, fixed it, or will have a link!!
     
  19. CRaSH

    CRaSH Guest

    Never mind, just noticed that's where you're at - assuming this is the same
    Dallas as at AGMFS.. :)
     
  20. default

    default Guest

    Body oil was my first guess too. But it would have to migrate through
    the silicon membrane to get to the pads, so I ruled that out as being
    unlikely.

    But that does call to mind an experiment to prove/disprove the oil
    theory. I just cleaned my own remote and its working 100% with just a
    light press on the keys. I plan to wrap the remote pad in metalized
    polyester to see if that acts as a barrier.

    I'll have to try the contact cement, the RTV wasn't lasting very long.

    Thanks for the input
     
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