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echo charge

Discussion in 'Boat Electronics' started by anxious boater, Feb 26, 2006.

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  1. Does any one have any experience with these devices. I understand with these
    you don't need battery switches, combiners or isolators.

    http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/echo.html

    Thanks

    ===========================================================
    Some people drink from the fountain of knowledge, others just gargle.

    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism; to steal from many is
    research.
    ===========================================================
     
  2. Larry

    Larry Guest

    Wow! And only $125, too!

    Here's the finest battery charger for the starting battery in any boat
    that's 12V ever invented:
    http://www.batterychargers.com/details.cfm?prodid=SE-1-12S&catid=18
    Mine's still running after being pounded to death in THREE boats!
    It charges at 1.5A until the battery comes up to 14V, then shuts off and
    waits for the battery to discharge below 13.2V, then comes on again to
    recharge the battery, even if it's a week later. It never boils a
    battery dry or overcharges it.

    It comes with a mounting bracket that holds it firmly to the bulkhead
    next to the battery. It's completely sealed in epoxy with only the
    cables exposed. It comes with ring terminals for direct connection to
    the battery terminals.

    A secondary neat feature is the "charged" red LED on it. It even works
    when the charger isn't plugged into AC power! If you look at it when the
    boat is running, you'll see it lit up red....which means the alternator
    has brought the starting battery voltage back up to 14+ volts and the
    alternator is functional...the battery is charged. It will stay lit on
    an unloaded battery long after you get back to the dock.

    The website quotes the retail price at $36. The street price is $29-32
    in most auto parts stores...saving you $100 to buy a nice dinner for the
    wife!

    $125 my ass......How silly.
     
  3. krj

    krj Guest

    Fine if you are at the dock. When you are on the hook for weeks you need
    something like the Balmar Duo-Charge to charge the starting battery when
    the alternator output is trying to put that 100 amps back in the house
    battery.
    krj
     
  4. Larry

    Larry Guest

    No, then you need a switch between the two batteries marked ON-OFF to
    parallel everything for charging when the engine is running. A remote
    full-duty-cycle relay with a little switch up by the engine controls is
    nicer. Put a pilot light on it to remind you to shut it off when the
    engine isn't running.

    Switch or solenoid
    + contacts +
    House Batteries-----|----------| |-----------|-------Starting Battery
    | |<switch at engine control
    | |
    Alternator |--solenoid coil-|-(gnd)
    DC output |---ind lite-----|

    Crank engine
    flip switch
    Charge everything
    flip switch
    Shut down engine

    KISS....??

    We got 2 alternators, but I still have a cross-connecting switch so I can
    charge everything from the one working alternator that's left. The big
    house alternator failed 90 miles S of Charleston coming up from Florida.
    I flipped the switch ON and noone noticed...(c; The damned fancy
    multistage controller failed. The Perkins alternator pulled the load
    just fine for the rest of the trip.
     
  5. krj

    krj Guest

    How did you mount a second alternator on the 4-108?
     
  6. Larry

    Larry Guest

    It's mounted on a bracket on the opposite side from the engine alternator
    on the engine bed, not the engine. What little movement is in the engine
    mounts doesn't seem to bother it. We did move the hot water heater out of
    the engine room because it was in the way of servicing the forward end of
    the engine where it's located the way we got the boat. The mount was
    broken and a new, heavier mount was installed with a larger alternator we'd
    brought from the old boat.

    I've heard the belt squeal a couple of times when the batteries were really
    down, but the rest of the time it works quite well. Even L-16H's can't
    pull 100A for more than a few minutes before the voltage comes up.
     
  7. Perhaps the OP wants a different charge regime for starting batteries
    vs house bank. I know I do - I use a single grp 27 for starting.
    Don't really want that charging in parallel with my house bank.

    ____________________________________________________________
    Glen "Wiley" Wilson <usenet1 SPAMNIX at world wide wiley dot com>
    To reply, lose the capitals and do the obvious.

    Take a look at cpRepeater, my NMEA data integrator, repeater, and
    logger at http://www.worldwidewiley.com/
     
  8. Most folks use a two or three groove shive on the front of the
    Crankshaft. I have a 6 groove shive on mine as I run, an air compressor,
    24Vdc 100amp alternator, and 10Hp Hydrolic pump, all off the front end.
    The backend turns a 10Kw Lima Genend.

    Bruce in alaska
     
  9. Larry

    Larry Guest

    Any power left to turn the shaft?.....(c;
     
  10. Thanks guys. Nothing is ever straight forward. If nothing else you have
    convinced me to do more "research".
     
  11. Len Krauss

    Len Krauss Guest

    I'm late getting to the party on this post, but I use the echo charger for
    my starting battery and like it. Practically all my charging is done via
    solar (with boost controller) into house flooded batteries. The echo unit
    puts the overflow into the starting AGM battery. I do have a shore power
    multistage charger on board that's hardly ever been used. Also, use a Link
    20 to monitor both. I say "starting" battery but it really ins't used much
    for that -- it is a backup, should all else fail.
    Len
     
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