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Maker Pro

earphone cable?

Hi John,

Thanks for the Maplin link and the RS link, I'm already aware of them,
and as you quite correctly found out, the cables are not, as I quoted
earlier, of the "correct size"......

John, the world also doesn't appreciate people who haven't read the
posting thread either! Also note the extensive use of smiley faces and
the sprinkling of the word "thanks" in my postings. Lightness of humour
and the ability to laugh at oneself, and a sense of humility is
something we should all have, at least, to some degree.

Again, thanks for the links, it is appreciated, and have a nice day.

;-)
 
Hi Ross,

Thanks for the link, I appreciate it.

Yes, you are correct, I was "oversimplifying" how you would go about
splitting a single THREE core cable, because I consider it such an easy
thing to do, and it wasn't the main thread topic. Thanks also for using
the word "fanciful" to describe my description, it made me laugh quite
a bit :eek:)

So, Ross, lets do a comparison of what I said and what you said: -
going to each earphone.

and I wrote "...you will have to split the left and right wires from
the outer protective sheath..."

and I wrote "...you then have to re-sheath the ground and signal from
the split point..."

and I just implied this as a given...although I did describe the Y
joint as a "split point"
work?

I agree with you, it can be done, and yes I can do it, just as WE
described ! and no it isn't really too much work, BUT as I ALREADY said
I don't think it would look as commercially neat, as using the cable I
am trying to source.

And yes, I am VERY technically competent in designing, building,
testing, fault diagnosis and repair in the fields of electronics,
embedded systems and software development, covering such diverse topics
as radio communications, radar, audio and video systems....to name but
a few.....but then again I felt that posting my CV wasn't really the
main thread topic as trying to source a cable!!

Anyway, enough ranting from me, ALL I ask is that the posting thread be
read CAREFULLY before helpful comments are made.....as I said enough
ranting from me.

Thanks again for the links.
:eek:)
 
Hi Glen,

Thanks for the posting, and the link to Cooner.

I think you just nailed the description of the cable I am trying to
source!

:)
 
Hi Pooh,

Thanks for the RS link.

Yes, it does look like the set I have are smaller, approx. 3.2 x 1.6
mm, figure 8. The size on the RS link are the smallest I have seen, so
far. I'll order a reel and see how I get on :)

Thanks again!
 
I

Ian Stirling

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi Glen,

Thanks for the posting, and the link to Cooner.

I think you just nailed the description of the cable I am trying to
source!

He diddn't, that's the nasty stuff.
The good ones have a core of kevlar, or some other structural fiber, with the copper bundles loosely wrapped round them.

This means that the copper is not stretched much, and does not fracture
rapidly.

I'd like some decent ones.
Kevlar core, with gold conductors.
Gold as it does not work harden and fracture.

The actual amount you need is small.
For a (say) 1 ohm resistance over 2.8m (1.4m cable doubled), you need
about 1/3 ohm/meter.
Electrical conductivity of gold is 2.2*10^-8 Ohms m.
So, that's about .25mm diameter, or about 60 cubic mm per m, or 240 for
4 conductors.
For a typical 1.2m cable, that's about 300 cubic mm, or .3cc, or 6g.
Or about 1/10 troy ounce, or about $30 worth.

Far less than some headphones are selling for.
 
Hi Ian,

kevlar and gold? ... well, as the main topic of the thread is to source
a manufacturer, do you know if anybody actually produces said christmas
wish ?

;o)

Thanks for your input, it's definitely something to put on my wish list
!
 
K

keith

Jan 1, 1970
0
He diddn't, that's the nasty stuff.
The good ones have a core of kevlar, or some other structural fiber, with the copper bundles loosely wrapped round them.

This means that the copper is not stretched much, and does not fracture
rapidly.

I'd like some decent ones.
Kevlar core, with gold conductors.
Gold as it does not work harden and fracture.

The actual amount you need is small.
For a (say) 1 ohm resistance over 2.8m (1.4m cable doubled), you need
about 1/3 ohm/meter.
Electrical conductivity of gold is 2.2*10^-8 Ohms m.
So, that's about .25mm diameter, or about 60 cubic mm per m, or 240 for
4 conductors.
For a typical 1.2m cable, that's about 300 cubic mm, or .3cc, or 6g.
Or about 1/10 troy ounce, or about $30 worth.

Far less than some headphones are selling for.

Ok, cost <> price.

Now for a related question... I have a pair of Koss headphones that are
getting intermittent. The intermittent is in the wires near the jack and
I can make it work by futzing with it. Is there a way to fix these
things? The one's I've taken apart have wires that are impossible to
repair.
 
I

Ian Stirling

Jan 1, 1970
0
Now for a related question... I have a pair of Koss headphones that are
getting intermittent. The intermittent is in the wires near the jack and
I can make it work by futzing with it. Is there a way to fix these
things? The one's I've taken apart have wires that are impossible to
repair.

Can you describe how it's hard? I've repaired about 10 phones without
difficulty.

The general procedure is to strip the jacket off the wire, while not
harming the underlying wire.
Now, seperate out the wire from the structural fiber, and securely
terminate that somewhere (knot and glue round the plug).
With a very hot iron, tin the copper wires, and solder onto the plug.
Pay attention to strain relief.
 
T

Tom MacIntyre

Jan 1, 1970
0
Can you describe how it's hard? I've repaired about 10 phones without
difficulty.

The general procedure is to strip the jacket off the wire, while not
harming the underlying wire.
Now, seperate out the wire from the structural fiber, and securely
terminate that somewhere (knot and glue round the plug).
With a very hot iron, tin the copper wires, and solder onto the plug.
Pay attention to strain relief.

Probably that cursed wire that has a varnish coating...I used to strip
it off with fine sandpaper.

Tom
 
I

Ian Stirling

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tom MacIntyre said:
Probably that cursed wire that has a varnish coating...I used to strip
it off with fine sandpaper.

Very hot iron works.
Or a butane lighter (not one of the "blowtorch" ones)
 
K

Keith Williams

Jan 1, 1970
0
Can you describe how it's hard? I've repaired about 10 phones without
difficulty.

I haven't had to do it for some time, but may have to soon. :-( When
I've done it before the wires were so tiny and fragile that it was
difficult just to get the things stripped, then they were "solder-
proof". I was told that the wire isn't copper. I really don't want to
buy another pair, so I may have to try it on this pair. I'll wait
until there is nothing to lose though.
The general procedure is to strip the jacket off the wire, while not
harming the underlying wire.

Well... ;-)
Now, seperate out the wire from the structural fiber, and securely
terminate that somewhere (knot and glue round the plug).
With a very hot iron, tin the copper wires, and solder onto the plug.

That's where I got hung up the last time (likely 20 years ago) I tried.
The wires wouldn't tin and the insulation melted quite easily.
Pay attention to strain relief.

Sure. I gotta find a decent plug next time too.
 
I

Ian Stirling

Jan 1, 1970
0
Keith Williams said:
I haven't had to do it for some time, but may have to soon. :-( When
I've done it before the wires were so tiny and fragile that it was
difficult just to get the things stripped, then they were "solder-
proof". I was told that the wire isn't copper. I really don't want to
buy another pair, so I may have to try it on this pair. I'll wait
until there is nothing to lose though.

Well... ;-)


That's where I got hung up the last time (likely 20 years ago) I tried.
The wires wouldn't tin and the insulation melted quite easily.


Sure. I gotta find a decent plug next time too.

Apologies for not snipping - for some reason that I'll have to fix,
my editor is not starting in 'visual' mode.

Anyway.
I've had good results with simple self-constructed plugs.
Take the 3.5mm plug.
Cut off the plastic bits, so you are left with the metal cylinder, with
2 concentric connections.
Now, solder the wires on.
Random wrap a layer of cotton onto the wires.
Cover with a thin epoxy.
Keep wrapping (covering the flex which now points towards the end of the
plug, and then turns 180 degrees, for strain relief) and adding epoxy,
till you end up with something about 5mm*10mm on the end of the plug.
Now, leave to set.
Repeat using silicone+thread to form the plug outer and strain relief.
 
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