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Dyson - how to access?

T

Terry Pinnell

Jan 1, 1970
0
My Dyson DC04 vacuum cleaner (3 yrs old) has a loose connection at the
switch. (Moving the cable where it enters the housing gives
intermittent operation.)

I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
book our engineer ... 49 UKP (78 USD)" Plus VAT presumably. I'm darned
if I'm going to fork out £50 for tightening a connection ;-(

So, can someone please tell me how to get access to the switch please?
I've shown a picture here.
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson.jpg

I'm guessing I have to insert a blade or screwdriver somewhere, but
I'm nervous about applying any force until I hear from someone with
experience please. There appear to be no possibilities apart from
- removing the yellow switch
- removing that small section surrounded by a 'seam' that I've shown
 
M

Mjolinor

Jan 1, 1970
0
Terry Pinnell said:
My Dyson DC04 vacuum cleaner (3 yrs old) has a loose connection at the
switch. (Moving the cable where it enters the housing gives
intermittent operation.)

I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
book our engineer ... 49 UKP (78 USD)" Plus VAT presumably. I'm darned
if I'm going to fork out £50 for tightening a connection ;-(

So, can someone please tell me how to get access to the switch please?
I've shown a picture here.
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson.jpg

I'm guessing I have to insert a blade or screwdriver somewhere, but
I'm nervous about applying any force until I hear from someone with
experience please. There appear to be no possibilities apart from
- removing the yellow switch
- removing that small section surrounded by a 'seam' that I've shown

The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.

Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
have another go.

OK never mind

http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg

stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
 
T

Terry Pinnell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mjolinor said:
The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.

Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
have another go.

OK never mind

http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg

stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
Many thanks, appreciate your help. Based on your advice, I was
eventually able to get yellow button off (paper knife, fair bit of
force - nervously!). But unfortunately that doesn't give me access to
the cable side of the switch as I'd hoped. Here's what I see:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/DysonSwitch.jpg

Do you know what that screw does? I'm reluctant to remove it in case
soemthing drops down inside. Even if it is possible to remove the red
switch itself somehow, I doubt I will be able to pull the cable out
with it.

So is there a way to get the enclosure off please, i.e. the one shown
here?
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson2.jpg
 
M

Mjolinor

Jan 1, 1970
0
Terry Pinnell said:
Mjolinor said:
The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.

Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
have another go.

OK never mind

http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg

stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
Many thanks, appreciate your help. Based on your advice, I was
eventually able to get yellow button off (paper knife, fair bit of
force - nervously!). But unfortunately that doesn't give me access to
the cable side of the switch as I'd hoped. Here's what I see:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/DysonSwitch.jpg

Do you know what that screw does? I'm reluctant to remove it in case
soemthing drops down inside. Even if it is possible to remove the red
switch itself somehow, I doubt I will be able to pull the cable out
with it.

So is there a way to get the enclosure off please, i.e. the one shown
here?
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson2.jpg

Remove the screw and the top grey plastic comes off with the switch on it,
you can remove the cable then
 
M

Mike Harrison

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mjolinor said:
The button is not quite round if you look from above. With the flat side
upwards so it's like a "U" there is a small clipthat is part of the button
holding the button into it's housing, this cli[p is to the left of the flat
area, or, if youi prefer, towards you if you are vacumning.

Bit hard to explain that, if you dont understand then post again and I'll
have another go.

OK never mind

http://www.dknpowerline.com/Pictures/Dyson.jpg

stick a thin shim thing down where I put the arrow and lift the button
Many thanks, appreciate your help. Based on your advice, I was
eventually able to get yellow button off (paper knife, fair bit of
force - nervously!). But unfortunately that doesn't give me access to
the cable side of the switch as I'd hoped. Here's what I see:
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/DysonSwitch.jpg

Do you know what that screw does? I'm reluctant to remove it in case
soemthing drops down inside.
In situations like this, you can usually just loosen a screw and see what starts moviing, before you
get to the point of no return....!
 
T

Terry Pinnell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Terry Pinnell said:
My Dyson DC04 vacuum cleaner (3 yrs old) has a loose connection at the
switch. (Moving the cable where it enters the housing gives
intermittent operation.)

I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
book our engineer ... 49 UKP (78 USD)" Plus VAT presumably. I'm darned
if I'm going to fork out £50 for tightening a connection ;-(

So, can someone please tell me how to get access to the switch please?
I've shown a picture here.
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Dyson.jpg

I'm guessing I have to insert a blade or screwdriver somewhere, but
I'm nervous about applying any force until I hear from someone with
experience please. There appear to be no possibilities apart from
- removing the yellow switch
- removing that small section surrounded by a 'seam' that I've shown

OK, sorted thanks. I bit the bullet and undid that screw. Happily that
let me pull out the enclosure. It was indeed a break in the (live)
feed, an inch or two from the point of entry.
 
S

Spehro Pefhany

Jan 1, 1970
0
Unfortunatly this is a fact of live these days. There is no way that a
company can advise a member of the public how to gain access to a safety
hazard. Everyone from consumers to retailers demand that manufacturers
comply with international safety regs. Compliance is not just about making a
safe product these days, you have to go to great lengths, even the wording
of a user manual is important.

If I remember correctly the standards say that a user should not be able to
gain access to a hazard using readily available tools (eg like a screwdriver
to remove one screw). There has to be a secondary level of protection like
multiple screws and or insulation on crimps etc.

If you get it wrong and someone gets hurt you get taken to court. But the
bad press is worse.

A fellow in the UK sent me a universal "wall wart" AC adapter (along
with some other stuff). It's got those huge old British style blades
and is held together with tamper-resistant screws that resemble flat
blade screws except the screwdriver blade would require a ~1mm slit in
the middle.

The replacement I bought locally has Philips style screws and is
easily opened.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
 
P

Paul Landregan

Jan 1, 1970
0
that style of slit screw head, is one of many different type of
security/tamper proof bolt. There are hex with centre stud, tri wing + many
more.
A kit containing all the security type can be bought if you know where to
go.

Spehro Pefhany said:
A fellow in the UK sent me a universal "wall wart" AC adapter (along
with some other stuff). It's got those huge old British style blades
and is held together with tamper-resistant screws that resemble flat
blade screws except the screwdriver blade would require a ~1mm slit in
the middle.

The replacement I bought locally has Philips style screws and is
easily opened.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
http://www.speff.com
 
T

Tim Shoppa

Jan 1, 1970
0
Terry Pinnell said:
My Dyson DC04 vacuum cleaner (3 yrs old) has a loose connection at the
switch. (Moving the cable where it enters the housing gives
intermittent operation.)

I nearly blew a gasket myself on calling the UK Dyson HelpLine. I was
told "We cannot tell you how to get access...health/safety...have to
book our engineer ... 49 UKP (78 USD)" Plus VAT presumably. I'm darned
if I'm going to fork out £50 for tightening a connection ;-(

Here in the states, some brands are better than others. Just about
all Sears appliances come with exploded diagrams and part numbers.
Ordering the spare parts isn't cheap (the replacement for the power
switch on my vacuum cost $16.00 from Sears, the knob for my Sears
washing machine was $19.00!) but they are exact fits.

Don't get me wrong - I'm not a Sears-lover in general. And I think their
parts are way overpriced. But it sure beats throwing the thing away.

Tim.
 
F

Frank Bemelman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Paul Landregan said:
that style of slit screw head, is one of many different type of
security/tamper proof bolt. There are hex with centre stud, tri wing + many
more.
A kit containing all the security type can be bought if you know where to
go.

What about the security screws that have sortof ramps, so you can
only rotate them clockwise, but if you turn ccw, the screwdriver works
its way out and slips. Arghh...
 
S

Sam Goldwasser

Jan 1, 1970
0
CWatters said:
Unfortunatly this is a fact of live these days. There is no way that a
company can advise a member of the public how to gain access to a safety
hazard. Everyone from consumers to retailers demand that manufacturers
comply with international safety regs. Compliance is not just about making a
safe product these days, you have to go to great lengths, even the wording
of a user manual is important.

If I remember correctly the standards say that a user should not be able to
gain access to a hazard using readily available tools (eg like a screwdriver
to remove one screw). There has to be a secondary level of protection like
multiple screws and or insulation on crimps etc.

If you get it wrong and someone gets hurt you get taken to court. But the
bad press is worse.

So a Philips screwdriver or socket wrench isn't a "readily available tool"?
Last I checked, that's all it takes to get into a microwave oven, perhaps
THE most dangerous consumer appliance to be going inside.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.
 
M

Mjolinor

Jan 1, 1970
0
What about the security screws that have sortof ramps, so you can
only rotate them clockwise, but if you turn ccw, the screwdriver works
its way out and slips. Arghh...

The Dremmel, specifically designed for the man (woman) who mends things that
were never intended to be mended.
 
T

Terry Pinnell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Remove the screw and the top grey plastic comes off with the switch on it,
you can remove the cable then

Thanks. As you probably saw from my last post, I went ahead meanwhile
and happy to say I've now fixed it. It was a broken lead as you
predicted!

Many thanks for your kind help.
 
T

The real Andy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mjolinor said:
The Dremmel, specifically designed for the man (woman) who mends things that
were never intended to be mended.

Those thing really piss me off. I use the dremel to make to cut a slot at
right angles so i can get them out. I pisses me off even more when they are
recessed into a plastic housing, which they usually are. In that case, i
just throw them at the wall and place bets on how many pieces I can make.
Normally the wagering pays the price of the broken equipment, and if it
doesn't, at least it gets a few laughs and a cheer or two from the techs...
 
T

The real Andy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Here in the states, some brands are better than others. Just about
all Sears appliances come with exploded diagrams and part numbers.
Ordering the spare parts isn't cheap (the replacement for the power
switch on my vacuum cost $16.00 from Sears, the knob for my Sears
washing machine was $19.00!) but they are exact fits.

Don't get me wrong - I'm not a Sears-lover in general. And I think their
parts are way overpriced. But it sure beats throwing the thing away.

I have enforced a new policy at the company i work for - If you cannot get a
circuit diagram or spare parts, no sale. We will not buy any third party
products for retail without a schematic or spare parts list. Surprisingly,
its usually the cheaper more reliable products that come with the schematics
and parts lists.
 
M

Mjolinor

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have enforced a new policy at the company i work for - If you cannot get a
circuit diagram or spare parts, no sale. We will not buy any third party
products for retail without a schematic or spare parts list. Surprisingly,
its usually the cheaper more reliable products that come with the schematics
and parts lists.

I think that in the US you have better laws regarding companies obligation
to provide service data. The UK in this respect is a long way behind. I have
a Merc and there was no way I could find information about the ignition
circuit other than through the back door of a Merc dealer. While I was
trying to do this I doscovered that in the US you could buy a CD off
Mercedes with all the relevant data on for every model for $60 or so. I also
discovered that Mercedes had refused to provide this information in
Australia and the Australian government had banned the import of Mercedes
until they backed down, which they did. The UK has now introduced rules
about what they must provide in order to sell cars here but it is still a
long way behind the US and saying they will provide it doesn't mean it is
easy to get with "sorry sir, 6 months back order" or "well it should be here
by now, I'll look into it".

It pisses me off :)
 
T

Tim Shoppa

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mjolinor said:
I think that in the US you have better laws regarding companies obligation
to provide service data.

We have the Magnusson-Moss Act, and while this is a significant law
enabling customers to get parts and service from sources other than the
manufacturer, it does not (in itself) require the manufacturer to make
the parts or data available except in some vary narrow circumstances.
(And when it does, it requires that the manufacturer do it for free!)

What it does do is create a market for non-OEM parts and supplies, which
gives the OEM real competition. A side-effect is that it encourages the OEM
to tell you their part numbers and let you order them, because if they
don't tell you this then you're sure to go to the competition.

Tim.
 
G

Genome

Jan 1, 1970
0
The real Andy said:

No......! Perhaps there is something wrong with the way I interface with
people. I was not joking or taking the piss....... I was truly impressed.

Terry has a problem and asks a question.
Mjolinor gives an answer.

Terry umms and aahs a bit but takes advice then asks another question.
Mjolinor gives the answer.

Problem Solved. (Two Days)


Now that, to me, is a totally new concept for SED. I can only guess that Mr
M lives in SER.

DNA
 
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