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Dlink DI-524 power/reset problem

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Sam Goldwasser, Oct 14, 2007.

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  1. Apparently, this is fairly (relative?) common. If there is a power
    interruption that would result in a reset, or the power is turned off
    for a moment, it requires 5-10 minutes before applying power to reset
    properly.

    Now, mine is doing this.

    Has anyone seen this problem and attempted to do anything about 9it
    (besides complaining to Dlink, which is apparently fruitless after the
    90 day warranty has expired)?

    I note that the 7.5 VDC adapter reads 10 V when plugged into it
    (under load - no off switch).

    Running on a Variac at reduced voltage has some modest effect.

    Any information appreciated including "buy another brand" or something like
    that. :)

    --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
    Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
    +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
    | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

    Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
    ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
    subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
     
  2. Ryan Weihl

    Ryan Weihl Guest

    I have a Dlink DI-624. Seems to fail more often when it is warm outside.
    28 to 30C. So I added a small fan to the router which helps to cool it
    down and prevents the unit from looking up as often.
    rw

    --
     
  3. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Guest

    I have a number of D-Link routers at different locations. I found that
    after killing the power, and re-starting, they need about 1 to 2
    minutes on the average to re-set.

    I had one that was acting strange where it would not always start up.
    I did a master re-set, and that fixed it. The annoying thing about
    doing a master re-set, is that all the non-default set-ups had to be
    re-entered.

    I had another router, which I cannot remember the name of, that was
    not starting up at times. Before binning it, I checked all the caps
    with an ESR meter. I found two that were not reading properly. After
    changing them, the router worked perfectly. I have no idea of the
    particular areas that these caps where part of, because I had no
    service information.


    Jerry G.
    ======
     
  4. Hi!
    I have a D-Link DI-524 and it has never done that. Nor have I ever heard of
    it. (But I wasn't looking either.) It has always done a good job on a very
    small computer network. The people who are using it are not at all computer
    literate and would call me immediately if it didn't work. The internals are
    very, very simple.

    On a whim, I did check the power output of the adapter with it plugged into
    the unit. Just like yours, it reads about 10V.

    As far as other brands, I'd *highly* recommend the Buffalo WHR-G54S,
    WHR-G54-HP, WHR-G125 or WHR-G125-HP brand routers if you can get them. I
    have put many of these units out after reflashing them with DD-WRT firmware.
    (The reflash is easy if you have access to a TFTP program.) Not a one of
    them has come back and I can't recall the last time I had to pull the plug
    to restore order. They just stay up. In my opinion the G54 routers are
    prettier, but the G125 units have a 40MHz faster CPU. The G54 routers also
    have nice detachable antennas.

    I wouldn't recommend Linksys wireless routers...normally I've had excellent
    performance from their equipment, but the wireless routers have been nothing
    but awful.

    William
     
  5. OK, I'll just have to run it in the fridge (or the freezer as someone
    suggested on one of the reviews on Amazon). :)

    So, I wonder if it's been like this for a long time and I never noticed
    because I don't generally power cycle the router, or it's gotten worse.
    This wasn't originally a power cycle issue - it locked up when my back
    was turned. Then, it wouldn't come back after killing power, or respond
    to reset. However, now it's been running all day, though I have it
    powered from a Variac at 100 VAC.

    --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
    Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
    +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
    | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

    Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
    ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
    subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
     
  6. Thanks.

    In all fairness, this is the first problem I've had with the DI-524 after
    more than a year of flawless performance.

    --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
    Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
    +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
    | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

    Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
    ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
    subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
     
  7. Paul Feaker

    Paul Feaker Guest

    videotape yourself smashing it with a hammer, and then post it on youtube.

    when your done with that, post the link.
     
  8. Paul Feaker

    Paul Feaker Guest

    A year? Really? Wow.

    I remember a time when an electronic device didn't last at least 15 years,
    then it was a royal piece of shit.
     
  9. Franc Zabkar

    Franc Zabkar Guest

    I suspect that the internals are powered from onboard switchmode DC-DC
    converters, in which case a higher than specified external voltage
    would be of little, if any, consequence.

    I have a D-Link DSL-302G in which the major chips run very hot. I have
    added heatsinks and drilled vent holes in the top of the case. I've
    also punched out the rows of "slats" on both sides.

    FWIW, firmware updates are available here:
    ftp://ftp.dlink.com/Gateway/

    I notice that there are revisions C, D, and E for your model. Maybe
    this is indicative of design problems ???

    - Franc Zabkar
     
  10. Lynn

    Lynn Guest

    IS YOUR GOOGLE BROKEN DICKHEAD?
     
  11. Dave

    Dave Guest

    this is fairly (relative?) common. If there is a power

    Sam, do yourself a favor and throw it away. Go to Future Shop or Circuit
    City or Best Buy or WalMart and spend $30 on a new one. I have gone through
    about 6 DI-XXX's in the past several years. They run hot, have no fan, and
    are designed to burn out at that cost point. The only reason I stay with
    D-Link is that I can set one up (office network, can't have down time) in
    about 5 minutes and it's an insignificant investment to have a spare laying
    about.

    The first D-Link wireless router I had lasted about 3 years from 2000-2003.
    Each subsequent iteration has died sooner than the last, while the warranty
    has become increasingly watered down. It's a damn shame they don't produce
    something which will outlast the warranty but apparently it's more
    cost-effective for them not to.

    Dave S.
     
  12. So perhaps what one should do is install heatsinks and a fan when new. :)

    Thanks.

    --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
    Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
    +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
    | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

    Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
    ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
    subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
     
  13. Dave

    Dave Guest

    That would be a fine idea. Or mount it in your refrigerator in a ziplock
    bag... probably wouldn't do great things for the range but I suppose you
    could always mount an external antenna.
     
  14. msg

    msg Guest

    The Linksys BEFW11 has a notoriously bad record for crashes requiring
    a power cycle (especially the S4 version); a 'fix' (in order to stay
    on-topic here ;) ) which is really a workaround involves periodically
    pinging the device and when it is silent for a particular period
    issuing a power cycle (using an SNMP-controlled power controller). I
    use one of these as a wide-area access point; its electronics are
    mounted in a sealed metal housing, which also provides heat sinking,
    high on a tower -- images are available here:

    http://www.cybertheque.org/homebrew/wisp/

    Perhaps a repackaging of the D-Link device would be in order and certainly
    would be a useful experiment.

    Regards,

    Michael
     
  15. Hi!
    Why?

    A good quality router/wireless access point should be able to last at least
    until it is no longer useful. I had a Microsoft 802.11b unit, made by Accton
    that lost one switch port out of the blue, but it kept working until a
    thunderstorm gave it a good jolt. It was getting to the point where its
    utility was perhaps somewhat questionable--by the time it died, WEP
    encryption was already broken in a matter of minutes. Other than that it was
    almost perfectly stable.

    For about $10 more, you can buy one of the Buffalo routers I already
    mentioned, take five minutes to flash it with alternative firmware (if you
    want) and have a unit that should last a very long time. I've got a few that
    are past their first birthday and still going along great.

    William
     

  16. That's strange. I remember when the people on this board knew what
    they are talking about. Now, any asshole with an aioe.troll account
    can troll like there is no tomorrow. How PATHETIC.


    --
    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
     

  17. have someone video tape a six year old girl beating the crap out of
    you, and then have someone post it on youtube.

    when they're done burying with you, they can post the link.


    --
    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
     
  18. y a 6 yo girl what r u a peadoe file do u enjoy beeting of over videos
    of 6 y o gurlz?
     
  19. Update:

    Well, it has been working flawlessly for the last week.

    The only changes were:

    1. The DI-524 was positioned away from the DSL modem to improve cooling.

    2. The firmware was upgraded from 4.0 to 4.03. The supposed feature of
    the upgrade is "better performance". You mean like "it might work"? :)

    I did try running it on reduced voltage, putting 3 diodes in series with
    the power adapter, but that was resulting in occasional peculiar behavior
    (different than before), possibly due to increased current required when
    it would transmitting pulling the adapter voltage from 10 V to the rated
    7.5 V (which would then result in about 5.5 V on the router). It never
    crashed but seemed to reset from time to time. Now, it's back on normal
    unmodified power.

    So, it will no doubt crash as soon as I post this, but so far, my reserve
    router isn't being installed.

    --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
    Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
    +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
    | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

    Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
    ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
    subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
     
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