Dlink DI-524 power/reset problem

Apparently, this is fairly (relative?) common. If there is a power
interruption that would result in a reset, or the power is turned off
for a moment, it requires 5-10 minutes before applying power to reset
properly.

Now, mine is doing this.

Has anyone seen this problem and attempted to do anything about 9it
(besides complaining to Dlink, which is apparently fruitless after the
90 day warranty has expired)?

I note that the 7.5 VDC adapter reads 10 V when plugged into it
(under load - no off switch).

Running on a Variac at reduced voltage has some modest effect.

Any information appreciated including "buy another brand" or something like
that.

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I have a Dlink DI-624. Seems to fail more often when it is warm outside.
28 to 30C. So I added a small fan to the router which helps to cool it
down and prevents the unit from looking up as often.
rw

--

 

I have a number of D-Link routers at different locations. I found that
after killing the power, and re-starting, they need about 1 to 2
minutes on the average to re-set.

I had one that was acting strange where it would not always start up.
I did a master re-set, and that fixed it. The annoying thing about
doing a master re-set, is that all the non-default set-ups had to be
re-entered.

I had another router, which I cannot remember the name of, that was
not starting up at times. Before binning it, I checked all the caps
with an ESR meter. I found two that were not reading properly. After
changing them, the router worked perfectly. I have no idea of the
particular areas that these caps where part of, because I had no
service information.


Jerry G.
======

 

Hi!

I have a D-Link DI-524 and it has never done that. Nor have I ever heard of
it. (But I wasn't looking either.) It has always done a good job on a very
small computer network. The people who are using it are not at all computer
literate and would call me immediately if it didn't work. The internals are
very, very simple.

On a whim, I did check the power output of the adapter with it plugged into
the unit. Just like yours, it reads about 10V.

As far as other brands, I'd *highly* recommend the Buffalo WHR-G54S,
WHR-G54-HP, WHR-G125 or WHR-G125-HP brand routers if you can get them. I
have put many of these units out after reflashing them with DD-WRT firmware.
(The reflash is easy if you have access to a TFTP program.) Not a one of
them has come back and I can't recall the last time I had to pull the plug
to restore order. They just stay up. In my opinion the G54 routers are
prettier, but the G125 units have a 40MHz faster CPU. The G54 routers also
have nice detachable antennas.

I wouldn't recommend Linksys wireless routers...normally I've had excellent
performance from their equipment, but the wireless routers have been nothing
but awful.

William

 

OK, I'll just have to run it in the fridge (or the freezer as someone
suggested on one of the reviews on Amazon).

So, I wonder if it's been like this for a long time and I never noticed
because I don't generally power cycle the router, or it's gotten worse.
This wasn't originally a power cycle issue - it locked up when my back
was turned. Then, it wouldn't come back after killing power, or respond
to reset. However, now it's been running all day, though I have it
powered from a Variac at 100 VAC.

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Thanks.

In all fairness, this is the first problem I've had with the DI-524 after
more than a year of flawless performance.

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Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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videotape yourself smashing it with a hammer, and then post it on youtube.

when your done with that, post the link.

 

A year? Really? Wow.

I remember a time when an electronic device didn't last at least 15 years,
then it was a royal piece of shit.

 

I suspect that the internals are powered from onboard switchmode DC-DC
converters, in which case a higher than specified external voltage
would be of little, if any, consequence.

I have a D-Link DSL-302G in which the major chips run very hot. I have
added heatsinks and drilled vent holes in the top of the case. I've
also punched out the rows of "slats" on both sides.

FWIW, firmware updates are available here:
ftp://ftp.dlink.com/Gateway/

I notice that there are revisions C, D, and E for your model. Maybe
this is indicative of design problems ???

- Franc Zabkar

 

IS YOUR GOOGLE BROKEN DICKHEAD?

 

this is fairly (relative?) common. If there is a power

Sam, do yourself a favor and throw it away. Go to Future Shop or Circuit
City or Best Buy or WalMart and spend $30 on a new one. I have gone through
about 6 DI-XXX's in the past several years. They run hot, have no fan, and
are designed to burn out at that cost point. The only reason I stay with
D-Link is that I can set one up (office network, can't have down time) in
about 5 minutes and it's an insignificant investment to have a spare laying
about.

The first D-Link wireless router I had lasted about 3 years from 2000-2003.
Each subsequent iteration has died sooner than the last, while the warranty
has become increasingly watered down. It's a damn shame they don't produce
something which will outlast the warranty but apparently it's more
cost-effective for them not to.

Dave S.

 

So perhaps what one should do is install heatsinks and a fan when new.

Thanks.

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That would be a fine idea. Or mount it in your refrigerator in a ziplock
bag... probably wouldn't do great things for the range but I suppose you
could always mount an external antenna.

 

The Linksys BEFW11 has a notoriously bad record for crashes requiring
a power cycle (especially the S4 version); a 'fix' (in order to stay
on-topic here ) which is really a workaround involves periodically
pinging the device and when it is silent for a particular period
issuing a power cycle (using an SNMP-controlled power controller). I
use one of these as a wide-area access point; its electronics are
mounted in a sealed metal housing, which also provides heat sinking,
high on a tower -- images are available here:

http://www.cybertheque.org/homebrew/wisp/

Perhaps a repackaging of the D-Link device would be in order and certainly
would be a useful experiment.

Regards,

Michael

 

Hi!

Why?

A good quality router/wireless access point should be able to last at least
until it is no longer useful. I had a Microsoft 802.11b unit, made by Accton
that lost one switch port out of the blue, but it kept working until a
thunderstorm gave it a good jolt. It was getting to the point where its
utility was perhaps somewhat questionable--by the time it died, WEP
encryption was already broken in a matter of minutes. Other than that it was
almost perfectly stable.

For about $10 more, you can buy one of the Buffalo routers I already
mentioned, take five minutes to flash it with alternative firmware (if you
want) and have a unit that should last a very long time. I've got a few that
are past their first birthday and still going along great.

William

 

That's strange. I remember when the people on this board knew what
they are talking about. Now, any asshole with an aioe.troll account
can troll like there is no tomorrow. How PATHETIC.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

have someone video tape a six year old girl beating the crap out of
you, and then have someone post it on youtube.

when they're done burying with you, they can post the link.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

y a 6 yo girl what r u a peadoe file do u enjoy beeting of over videos
of 6 y o gurlz?

 

Update:

Well, it has been working flawlessly for the last week.

The only changes were:

1. The DI-524 was positioned away from the DSL modem to improve cooling.

2. The firmware was upgraded from 4.0 to 4.03. The supposed feature of
the upgrade is "better performance". You mean like "it might work"?

I did try running it on reduced voltage, putting 3 diodes in series with
the power adapter, but that was resulting in occasional peculiar behavior
(different than before), possibly due to increased current required when
it would transmitting pulling the adapter voltage from 10 V to the rated
7.5 V (which would then result in about 5.5 V on the router). It never
crashed but seemed to reset from time to time. Now, it's back on normal
unmodified power.

So, it will no doubt crash as soon as I post this, but so far, my reserve
router isn't being installed.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
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