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Just something to be shared
Give some comment about that for further improve.
Thank you
Are you one of them?
TDA7000 was right commenting that you need have thicker or wider traces, specially with the Supply etch and ground etch pcb. This will avoid electrical noise in your circuit with high current and fast signals. such as DC DC Inverter. Tracing such noise problem will give you headache.
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Yea..I am one of them
Oh. The guy in the left.
How come you did not show that you have to laminate the finished pcb w/ Plastic Varnish to avoid finger print mark on PCB etch that will cause corrosion?
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Oh. The guy in the left.
How come you did not show that you have to laminate the finished pcb w/ Lacquer Varnish to avoid finger print mark on PCB etch that will cause corrosion?
you mean solder mask ?
Almost like solder mask. But with Lacquer Varnish or Plastic Varnish ( we call it here in Philippines ). You can still solder on copper etch even coated with Plastic Varnish.
What do you use for coating copper of pcb?
I just remember. You look like one of my engineer.
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Put small amount in clean white cloth and wipe over copper side of finished pcb. 1 or 2 coating will do. Let it dry for few minutes and you can now solder components. Varnish coating protect copper etch from contaminants such perspiration from your fingers. Without coating in your pcb will cause corrosion copper etch and hard to solder.
This is only cheap alternative. But it works.
Do you have this in Malaysia. Its cheap.
Is this the one that will make the wood shinny ?
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One of the the "correct" types of coating is an acrylic. It probably differs from varnish in that it has a known dielectric constant and resistance.
But I've never had problems with the excess conductivity of varnished wood...
I suggest that as long as it sticks to the board and the copper, and burns/melts away with the temperatures used for soldering, it will probably be OK.
The coating is unlikely to be thick enough for it to sustain a flame (especially over copper) so the risk of it all burning off has to be quite low (once it's dry of course).
But I've never had problems with the excess conductivity of varnished wood...
I suggest that as long as it sticks to the board and the copper, and burns/melts away with the temperatures used for soldering, it will probably be OK.
The coating is unlikely to be thick enough for it to sustain a flame (especially over copper) so the risk of it all burning off has to be quite low (once it's dry of course).
I realise that the PCB that I made the copper connection is slightly rusting already.So I used the plastic varnish to prevent it to corrode right ?
It you are planning on transferring the printed image to the copper clad board, it has to be a laser printer. Ink will not trasfer and would not act as resist if it did. Laser printer toner is essentially a plastic that is melted onto the paper.
Bob
Bob
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Some people have experimented with printing direct to the PCB using inkjet printers.
The problem is that PCB isn't paper (although there are printers that can print to CD/DVD's and have a flat path for thick items) and that the ink isn't designed to stick to metal surfaces.
I've seen that someone has modified a print head to "print" wax. This is actually a really cool idea, but one that isn't really practical (yet -- fingers crossed)
The problem is that PCB isn't paper (although there are printers that can print to CD/DVD's and have a flat path for thick items) and that the ink isn't designed to stick to metal surfaces.
I've seen that someone has modified a print head to "print" wax. This is actually a really cool idea, but one that isn't really practical (yet -- fingers crossed)
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