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deep cycle battery?

Discussion in 'Electronic Design' started by [email protected], Oct 20, 2006.

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  1. Guest

    Is a battery which has the label "Trolling / Marine / Deep Cycle"
    really a deep cycle battery?

    I'm thinking of getting one from Wal-Mart (about $50), using it as a
    "generator" for camping (with 110V inverter), but I'm not sure if it's
    the kind of "deep cycle" that I think it is.
  2. I would expect so.
    So, what do you think it is?

    Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
    peterbb4 (at)
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  3. AndyS

    AndyS Guest

    **** Yes
    *** It would work well. But, if you wish to put your mind at
    ease, buy a deep cycle battery labelled "for RV use".......
    These are used for the purpose you want in RVs , campers,
    and motorhome to run the inverters, as well as the
    12 incandescents. They also
    work very well for trolling motors...

    I think these may be essentially the same battery, with only
    a labelling difference to appeal to different markets, but I'm not
    really sure......

    Andy in Eureka, Texas
  4. Guest

    Some sort of hybrid...

    "A dual or starting marine battery is a compromise between a car and a
    deep cycle battery that is specially designed for marine applications.
    A deep cycle or dual marine battery will work as a starting battery if
    it can produce enough current to start the engine, but not as well as a
    car battery. For saltwater applications, AGM or gel cell batteries are
    highly recommended to prevent chorine gas."

    I think I saw the word "starting" on the battery as well. Not sure;
    don't remember.

    I guess I'll look for an RV deep cycle then.

    When I do find my RV deep cycle, would a regular cheap battery charger
    (such as is used for charging car batteries) properly charge a deep
    cycle battery as well?


  5. AndyS

    AndyS Guest

    Andy answers:
    Yes. The battery chemistry is the same but the deep cycle battery
    will have internal plates of a different thickness...
    If you can charge the battery at a lower rate , say 2 to 6 amps, it
    will be better . Since you are using if for campling, I assume you
    will be using it on weekends and have the entire week to charge it.
    That is a good scenario....
    Buy yourself a hydrometer. They cost 3-4 bucks and give a reading
    of the specific gravity of each cell . They are the very best
    of the state of charge of the battery. If you do a google on "lead
    batteries" you should find a wealth of data on what the readings should
    be..... Make sure your battery allows you access to each cell. Sealed
    batteries do not. You need this capability to maximize the battery
    Do NOT use battery terminal voltage to determine state of charge. There
    are many reasons why this is inaccurate.

    There are two really good ways to ruin a lead acid battery. The
    is to leave it in a discharged state. The other is to overcharge

    The SG hydrometer will tell you the battery condition after the
    camping trip, and you can put on the slow charger, and every day
    take a reading till you get to a fully charged state......Then you can
    disconnect it, or use a "float" charger. One is sold by for about 6 dollars..... It isn't very good for
    charging , but for maintaining the charge to counteract the
    battery self-discharge ( aka leakage)..... Some battery chargers in
    the 2-6 amp range have this capability built into them.....

    By the way, there are two uses for marine batteries. One is for
    starting a big boat motor. They deliver a big slug of current just
    like in a car, and used the boat's alternator to recharge, just like
    a car.
    The other is to run a trolling motor at 3 to 15 amperes for 10 or
    15 hours. They are NOT made to deliver massive slugs of current
    and are deep cycle type...... The fisherman uses the motor
    to ride around drinking beer all weekend
    while he pretends to fish , and then goes home and puts
    it on a small charger until the next weekend...
    These two goals are almost opposites. A battery that is claimed
    to do both jobs is optimum for neither.... However, a deep cycle
    battery MIGHT give enough of a current slug to start a big motor,
    but the internal heating could buckle the plates. Best to use
    a battery suited to your operation , and RV batteries are not

    Andy in Eureka, Texas
  6. PhattyMo

    PhattyMo Guest

    I think they're also known as "Traction" batteries.
    (as opposed to "starting" batteries.)

  7. By that logic, the batteries in a submarine would be "Subtraction"
    batteries? ;-)

    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
  8. Wes Stewart

    Wes Stewart Guest

    On 19 Oct 2006 19:17:46 -0700, wrote:

    You might want to splurg and get the AGM type. Much less chance of a
    mess and you can recharge it in the house or garage without outgassing
    Absolutely NOT.

    If you're buying one, a proper charger will cost as much as the
    battery, particularly if you're going to maintain the state of charge
    (float) when you're not using the battery (or even if you are).

    For my RV use I built a linear charger (switchers are a blight on the
    rf spectrum) using the TI UC3906 IC. Recommend you look this up for
    info on the charge process.
  9. Guest

    Thanks for the info.

  10. ehsjr

    ehsjr Guest

    Good info!
  11. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    My Winnebago has a knife switch, so when I park and plug into
    115, the 12V "AC-DC Converter" can keep both the motor battery
    and the house battery on a float charge. Of course, I open it
    to start the motor.

    You're right - either kind can live on a float charge almost
    indefinitely. :)

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