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Deadbolt indicator

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by David Humpherys, Aug 26, 2013.

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  1. Hi All,

    I'm very much a beginner in the electronics area, but I've been playing around with resistors, led's and batteries - so I understand those basics.

    Now I want to apply what I've learned!

    I want to make a indicator LED light when the deadbolt to my door is locked.
    I've made a (ugly) graphic to show what I'm thinking.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1W-vn7UR5Zp9vrNA-jE2Sqf2b7B553QGO7qQP3qor9EY/edit?usp=sharing

    The basic idea is that the deadbolt closes the circuit.
    What I don't know is how to create and attach the connectors to the door jam.
    Is there any circuit pieces like this i could start from?
    What do i need to do to make it safe?
    Do I need to attach a small plate to the end of the deadbolt to properly close the loop?

    Thanks for any help!
     
  2. Tom Biasi

    Tom Biasi Guest

    You would be better off not to let the dead bolt make the connection.
    The bolt could push a micro-switch or activate something else that would
    close a circuit.

    Tom
     
  3. You would be better off not to let the dead bolt make the connection.
    Thanks Tom,
    Do you have any recommendations for a micro-switch that would work for this type of thing?
     
  4. You don't really need a switch. You could re-arrange the two pieces of
    metal stripes like this:

    | Bent stripe
    |
    \ +-------
    / \ |
    | | <-- LOCK
    | +--------

    When the lock was turned anti-clockwise, the two metal stripes would
    touch each other, completing the LED circuit.

    --
    @[email protected] Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
    / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
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  5. Tom Biasi

    Tom Biasi Guest

    Look for one with some travel play in the activating, this way you can
    make contact and still have room to push some more and not damage the
    switch.
    Tom
     
  6. Phil Hobbs

    Phil Hobbs Guest

    A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door
    jamb would get my vote.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs

    --
    Dr Philip C D Hobbs
    Principal Consultant
    ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
    Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

    160 North State Road #203
    Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

    hobbs at electrooptical dot net
    http://electrooptical.net
     
  7. I get what your saying. Thank you for the mention.
    Any idea where I would get this type of material ?
    And how would I attach it to the wood without saftey problems?

    Totally understand it might not be as good as a production switch.
     
  8. Thanks for the links Tim.
    you're right - i need to pull the door trim off and see what sort of space i have to deal with, then figure out what the area of impact would be.

    is there some technical jargon that notates at what point the stitch turns on?
    In other words, when the bolt connects to the switch and starts pushing, how far does a switch have to push to actually close the loop. Is there a word for that?

    Thanks for the help!
     

  9. Thanks Phil - a totally different solution i didn't know existed. and a cheap one at that.

    I'd have to find a thin magnet so that it didn't interfere with the door opening-closing. something like this might work.
    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8644

    thanks for all the help everyone!!!
     
  10. Tom Biasi

    Tom Biasi Guest

    Agree, if he going the magnet route. Which I think is a viable solution.
    Rat Shack has magnet/switch pairs pretty cheap.


    Tom
     
  11. Phil Hobbs

    Phil Hobbs Guest

    That's true, but (a) it's a lot less sensitive, so it would have to be
    right up against the magnet, and (b) it's made of glass, so it would be
    vulnerable to breakage if somebody slammed the door, or was working on
    the hinges, or....

    Besides, the OP sounds like he wants to learn some electronics.

    Cheers

    Phil Hobbs



    --
    Dr Philip C D Hobbs
    Principal Consultant
    ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
    Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

    160 North State Road #203
    Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA
    +1 845 480 2058

    hobbs at electrooptical dot net
    http://electrooptical.net
     
  12. Eric, this was going to be my question with any of these sensors.
    Hall or Reed - are they binary? If not, how do I dial in the LED to only turn on at a certain point?

    I'm very much into the idea of using a true switch vs a make shift one - with either I will learn a practical application. I just got into this whole hobby thru arduino - but when I went to solve my problem, i realized I don't need to use that much tech - a simple circuit will do.

    @john - I've looked at a few reed switches online, and it isn't immediatly clear to me how i might situate it within the jam.
    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8644
    Could I just run it vertically near the hole where the bolt goes? and if the magnet is too strong or too weak, is there a way to adjust it?

    Thanks to you all - these are some great suggestions and I'm learning a bunch.!
     
  13. Tom Biasi

    Tom Biasi Guest

    perhaps Jim,
    If he wants to "MacGyver" everything. I would like to see him make use
    of readily available products but the who am I?

    Tom
     
  14. That was my thought.. well magnet and reed relay.

    George H.
     
  15. RobertMacy

    RobertMacy Guest

    magnetic security switch is built for this AND looks decent.
     
  16. Jim, I'd be interested in knowing what parts you used for this. Garage doors are in the big picture too. Sounds cool.
    Once I tackle the actual cicuit I'll need to figure out how I want to get the message to someplace usefull in my house. :)
     
  17. Bob Masta

    Bob Masta Guest

    I don't think you need anything too fancy in the magnet
    department. Back in the early '70s when electronic fuel
    injection was just getting started, Cadillac (my employer)
    used two reed switches mounted on either side of the
    distributor shaft to pick up RPM and timing info. Dunno
    about the magnets, but I don't think they were anything
    special, even back then.

    Best regards,


    Bob Masta

    DAQARTA v7.40
    Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
    www.daqarta.com
    Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Sound Level Meter
    Frequency Counter, Pitch Track, Pitch-to-MIDI
    FREE Signal Generator, DaqMusic generator
    Science with your sound card!
     
  18. I was also thinking about adding a spring to the upper stripe in my
    diagram so that it could bounce back better...

    Anyway, I have never done this kind of mod. :)

    --
    @[email protected] Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
    / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
    /( _ )\ (Fedora 19 i686) Linux 3.10.9-200.fc19.i686
    ^ ^ 19:54:02 up 1:46 0 users load average: 0.00 0.01 0.05
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  19. @ABLE1
    Perfect - I think that's exactly what I need.
    I took off my trim and I have ~1/2 inch space between the end of the bolt and the jam. I could always build it up a bit if need be.

    Thanks for sharing the link!!
     
  20. BTW, don't turn that design into a IED (bomb)! :)


    --
    @[email protected] Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
    / v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
    /( _ )\ (Fedora 19 i686) Linux 3.10.10-200.fc19.i686
    ^ ^ 01:33:01 up 2 days 4:27 0 users load average: 0.00 0.01 0.05
    ä¸å€Ÿè²¸! ä¸è©é¨™! ä¸æ´äº¤! ä¸æ‰“交! ä¸æ‰“劫! ä¸è‡ªæ®º! è«‹è€ƒæ…®ç¶œæ´ (CSSA):
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