Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Crossover or Hipass??

J

Jammin Jimmy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Updating some old speaker cabs Disco type, previously they had a 15" driver
and a peizo just soldered together and sounded quite good, I have new
speakers and now I see bullet tweeters that require a crossover or hi-pass,
the crossover is about 2x the price of the hi-pass, could someone give me
the pros and cons?
Thanks
 
J

JURB6006

Jan 1, 1970
0
If the woofers are directly connected, you'll get better response by simply
using a capacitor. The woofer's response is dropping at an uncontrolled rate,
probably around 3-4 Khz.

Without frequency response and impedance curves it's difficult to arrive at the
proper value. You probably can find the response curve for the old tweeters,
but without knowing the impedance curve of the new ones you'll have to play it
by ear.

Of course we're talking club speakers here, not Canton monitor speakers (ever
hear them ? awesome reproduction !). Club speakers need a good amount of "boom
& tingle", and adequate midrange between.

Order you some capacitors, NOT electrolytics, get good poly dipped or some
other high quality non-polars, high quality caps actually do sound better. I
know.

If you have a ten band EQ you can find the rolloff of the woofers, but you
still don't have the actual impedance curve so it's still hit/miss.

I'd start with 2.2uf, and have a bunch of 1 ufs on hand to add in paralell. If
it uses multiple tweeters you must multiply by their number. Make sure you get
caps rated 100 volts. They should be fine up to about 200 watts.

If you wish you can start experimenting with bipolar electrolytics, once you
arrive at a value then order the good ones. Starting with 2.2, adding a 1 will
make it 3.2, if it sounds good there, order 3.3s, if you need two 1s, you might
want to go with 4.7s. Just get as close as you can. If the value falls into a
non-standard value, there are other ways, but the best way is paralell, then
they share the current. Use them in series only if absolutely nessecary, also
figuring it out is harder, you need to add the reciprocals of the values
instead of just adding them up.

As far as the boxed highpass filter, how do you know what frequency to get,
also it'll only work properly on one tweeter (also true of a crossover).

Keep me "posted". Good luck.

JURB
 
A

Asimov

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Jammin Jimmy" bravely wrote to "All" (29 Jul 04 23:04:14)
--- on the heady topic of "Crossover or Hipass??"

JJ> From: "Jammin Jimmy" <[email protected]>

JJ> Updating some old speaker cabs Disco type, previously they had a 15"
JJ> driver and a peizo just soldered together and sounded quite good, I
JJ> have new speakers and now I see bullet tweeters that require a
JJ> crossover or hi-pass, the crossover is about 2x the price of the
JJ> hi-pass, could someone give me the pros and cons?
JJ> Thanks

I feel bi-amping is more flexible than passive crossovers for big
speakers. There is much less distortion and lower losses to begin
with. Also the electronic filter design is much more precise and can
be a brickwall by comparison. What is more, many preamps have tunable
biamping outputs. Given a choice, passive crossovers are better suited
for bookshelf or small room speakers.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Over a hundred billion electrons were used in crafting this tagline.
 
J

Jammin Jimmy

Jan 1, 1970
0
JURB6006 said:
If the woofers are directly connected, you'll get better response by simply
using a capacitor. The woofer's response is dropping at an uncontrolled rate,
probably around 3-4 Khz.

Without frequency response and impedance curves it's difficult to arrive at the
proper value. You probably can find the response curve for the old tweeters,
but without knowing the impedance curve of the new ones you'll have to play it
by ear.

Of course we're talking club speakers here, not Canton monitor speakers (ever
hear them ? awesome reproduction !). Club speakers need a good amount of "boom
& tingle", and adequate midrange between.

Order you some capacitors, NOT electrolytics, get good poly dipped or some
other high quality non-polars, high quality caps actually do sound better. I
know.

If you have a ten band EQ you can find the rolloff of the woofers, but you
still don't have the actual impedance curve so it's still hit/miss.

I'd start with 2.2uf, and have a bunch of 1 ufs on hand to add in paralell. If
it uses multiple tweeters you must multiply by their number. Make sure you get
caps rated 100 volts. They should be fine up to about 200 watts.

If you wish you can start experimenting with bipolar electrolytics, once you
arrive at a value then order the good ones. Starting with 2.2, adding a 1 will
make it 3.2, if it sounds good there, order 3.3s, if you need two 1s, you might
want to go with 4.7s. Just get as close as you can. If the value falls into a
non-standard value, there are other ways, but the best way is paralell, then
they share the current. Use them in series only if absolutely nessecary, also
figuring it out is harder, you need to add the reciprocals of the values
instead of just adding them up.

As far as the boxed highpass filter, how do you know what frequency to get,
also it'll only work properly on one tweeter (also true of a crossover).

Keep me "posted". Good luck.

JURB

Thanks but most of this is a bit to technical for me, what I was asking is
the same firm supply the boxed Hi pass the boxed crossover and the
tweeter,they say thay both will do the job but thre crossover is double the
price of the Hi pass
 
J

Jammin Jimmy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Asimov said:
"Jammin Jimmy" bravely wrote to "All" (29 Jul 04 23:04:14)
--- on the heady topic of "Crossover or Hipass??"

JJ> From: "Jammin Jimmy" <[email protected]>

JJ> Updating some old speaker cabs Disco type, previously they had a 15"
JJ> driver and a peizo just soldered together and sounded quite good, I
JJ> have new speakers and now I see bullet tweeters that require a
JJ> crossover or hi-pass, the crossover is about 2x the price of the
JJ> hi-pass, could someone give me the pros and cons?
JJ> Thanks

I feel bi-amping is more flexible than passive crossovers for big
speakers. There is much less distortion and lower losses to begin
with. Also the electronic filter design is much more precise and can
be a brickwall by comparison. What is more, many preamps have tunable
biamping outputs. Given a choice, passive crossovers are better suited
for bookshelf or small room speakers.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... Over a hundred billion electrons were used in crafting this tagline.
Thanks I can ony use the existing old amp and desk in this situation
 
Top