Crimp connectors as IDC ?

[N Cook]

Is it acceptable practice?
Kustom KPM6160A mixer amp from 1997 with intermittant crackles and sometimes
loss of sound, waggling the interboard ribbon leads produces these symptoms.

The .156in spacing Harwin/Molex/ Amp/Tyco connectors for power are fine , 2
sets of crimp pairs , one crimped around the conductors and one crimped
around the sleeving.
But the .1 ins spacing ones have single crimp pairs which are crimped around
unstripped insulation and relying on the returned ends piercing through the
insulation into the conductors.

 

[Ron(UK)]

Is it acceptable practice?
Kustom KPM6160A mixer amp from 1997 with intermittant crackles and sometimes
loss of sound, waggling the interboard ribbon leads produces these symptoms.

The .156in spacing Harwin/Molex/ Amp/Tyco connectors for power are fine , 2
sets of crimp pairs , one crimped around the conductors and one crimped
around the sleeving.
But the .1 ins spacing ones have single crimp pairs which are crimped around
unstripped insulation and relying on the returned ends piercing through the
insulation into the conductors.

The fact that they are giving trouble answers your question. Is there
any satisfactory way of hard wiring it?

Ron(UK)

 

[N Cook]

The fact that they are giving trouble answers your question. Is there
any satisfactory way of hard wiring it?

Ron(UK)

I pulled the wires out, very easily and cleanly, cut the ends off , solder
blobs on the pins and the recut wires and soldered together.
Some "hot-melt string" melted over the joins for some mechanical bonding to
the shroud.
I looked closer to the crimps and the returned ends are curled over where
they pierced the insulation.
The interconnect in the mixer section , .1 ins spacing was properly crimped,
so just the ones between mixer and ps and ps to amp were bodged.

 

[Ron(UK)]

I pulled the wires out, very easily and cleanly, cut the ends off , solder
blobs on the pins and the recut wires and soldered together.
Some "hot-melt string" melted over the joins for some mechanical bonding to
the shroud.
I looked closer to the crimps and the returned ends are curled over where
they pierced the insulation.
The interconnect in the mixer section , .1 ins spacing was properly crimped,
so just the ones between mixer and ps and ps to amp were bodged.

I have very little faith in idc`s anyway, I have one of those Neutrik
stageboxes which is all idc. Great idea, but it`s a waste of space, I
eventually had to solder all the connections to keep it reliable.

Ron(UK)

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Is it acceptable practice?
Kustom KPM6160A mixer amp from 1997 with intermittant crackles and sometimes
loss of sound, waggling the interboard ribbon leads produces these symptoms.

The .156in spacing Harwin/Molex/ Amp/Tyco connectors for power are fine , 2
sets of crimp pairs , one crimped around the conductors and one crimped
around the sleeving.
But the .1 ins spacing ones have single crimp pairs which are crimped around
unstripped insulation and relying on the returned ends piercing through the
insulation into the conductors.

That's how it's done. Look at all the computer IDE, floppy, SCSI
cables. Or am I misunderstanding the question?

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Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Ron(UK)]

That's how it's done. Look at all the computer IDE, floppy, SCSI
cables. Or am I misunderstanding the question?

As I understood him, he meant that the _insulation grip_ part of the
connector had been forced into and through the insulating outer to
hopefully make contact with the conductor within. In other words the
'tangs' which crimp the connector to the wire also serve as the contact
points. I've seen this quite a few times in examples of 'Chinese Junk'
Not good practise IMO
Ron(UK)

 

[N Cook]

That's how it's done. Look at all the computer IDE, floppy, SCSI
cables. Or am I misunderstanding the question?

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
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Instead of 2 sets of crimp points - one for the sleeving and one for the
conductors.
These ones had one pair and instead of stripping back the insulation and
crimping to the wires, they had not stripped back and crimped hoping the
returned ends of the crimp tangs would make contact with the strands.

Often seen with those small crocodile connector, jump leads, that you get in
packs of 10 , 2 of each colour. I long since learnt with them is, when you
buy them, the first thing to do is you pull back each croc and solder the
wire to the croc.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

As I understood him, he meant that the _insulation grip_ part of the
connector had been forced into and through the insulating outer to
hopefully make contact with the conductor within. In other words the
'tangs' which crimp the connector to the wire also serve as the
contact points. I've seen this quite a few times in examples of
'Chinese Junk' Not good practise IMO

OK, in that case I agree. Proper IDC connectors are very carefully
designed. You don't get realiable connections by accident!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Instead of 2 sets of crimp points - one for the sleeving and one for the
conductors.
These ones had one pair and instead of stripping back the insulation and
crimping to the wires, they had not stripped back and crimped hoping the
returned ends of the crimp tangs would make contact with the strands.

Often seen with those small crocodile connector, jump leads, that you get in
packs of 10 , 2 of each colour. I long since learnt with them is, when you
buy them, the first thing to do is you pull back each croc and solder the
wire to the croc.

I bought a 100 genuine Mueller Electric type 60 alligator clips in
the early '70s, and still haven't used half of them. I still have some
ne type 62 insulators in red and black, too.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida