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couple of basic questions

J

Joe Blowe

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am installing my security rough ins this weekend and need to know a few
things:

1. What is the best wire to use for a security camera?

2. Any other suggestions from you experienced installers as to things to
watch out for and how to make it look and work like a professional installed
it? ( This will be inspected on Monday)

I can't afford to pay the pros but I would like it to be properly set up so
if I ever have to pay someone to fix it later, it will at least have been
wired properly. :)

I will be using a CaddX NX8 panel ,20 windows sensors, 5- Ademco 3/4" door
sensors and a Street Smart Code Encryptor2 to remote control garage door
and security.

Your help is appreciated , believe me or not...

Thanks in advance.
David Sheetz
St. Louis, MO
[email protected]

(remove the no spam. to email me)
 
F

Frank Olson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Joe Blowe said:
I am installing my security rough ins this weekend and need to know a few
things:

1. What is the best wire to use for a security camera?

RG-59U for the video. 18-2 stranded for power.

2. Any other suggestions from you experienced installers as to things to
watch out for and how to make it look and work like a professional installed
it? ( This will be inspected on Monday)

Home run your CCTV to a central wiring closet. Leave about 3' - 4' of wire
at each camera location (the length can be a bit shorter if you're using
dome cameras). Avoid long parallel runs to AC (stay about a foot away if
you can). Try to cross any AC wires at a 70 to 90 degree angle. Don't feed
your wires through the same holes in the top or bottom plates as your AC
runs. That's about it... Pretty simple, huh??

I can't afford to pay the pros but I would like it to be properly set up so
if I ever have to pay someone to fix it later, it will at least have been
wired properly. :)

I will be using a CaddX NX8 panel ,20 windows sensors, 5- Ademco 3/4" door
sensors and a Street Smart Code Encryptor2 to remote control garage door
and security.

Don't know what kind of windows you have, but I like using the GRI 2020-T
(http://www.grisk.com/recessed/2020.htm). It eliminates the "pig-tails" and
makes it easier to service the contact afterwards. I usually install the
contacts at the pre-wire stage. As for wire runs, the same rules apply as
indicated above. For keypads, run two four conductors. Always ensure you
have a couple of keypad locations pre-wired. I usually run a drop to the
master bedroom as well as one in the second floor hallway just before you go
down the stairs. On bigger homes, you might want to have a keypad at the
garage entry as well as the main entrance. If you're going to have a media
room (in the basement or on the main level), run a keypad drop there as well
.. It's always nice to know when someone's coming or going.

Your help is appreciated , believe me or not...

I believe...
 
J

Jackcsg

Jan 1, 1970
0
Horse shit. Do you have oscilloscope eyes? At 100 feet, I can guanasstee the
human eye will see no difference. When you get around 1,000 ft. it will
start to play a role. 22 awg vs. 18 awg, it's about the same effect as a
power supply. I run Cat5, RG-59, and 18/4 to every camera I install...of
course I use Network Cameras and the Internet in 90% of my installs.

Jack
 
J

Jackcsg

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sorry, I meant to say "Horse Hockey"!


Jackcsg said:
Horse shit. Do you have oscilloscope eyes? At 100 feet, I can guanasstee the
human eye will see no difference. When you get around 1,000 ft. it will
start to play a role. 22 awg vs. 18 awg, it's about the same effect as a
power supply. I run Cat5, RG-59, and 18/4 to every camera I install...of
course I use Network Cameras and the Internet in 90% of my installs.

Jack

things set apply
 
A

Aegis

Jan 1, 1970
0
You like wasting money don't you?

Daniel Ellebracht said:
I'm not sure how long it's been since Frank here bought any cable, but the
way to go for ANY sort of video is RG-6 not RG-59. And yes there is a
difference in quality.


you
 
J

Joe Blowe

Jan 1, 1970
0
I checked it out and I need no permit (new law started Jan 1st but
inspectors are letting me get by because the electrical permit was pulled
before December 31) I also talked to the electrician and the only warning he
gave me was too use fire caulk around any holes I drilled in the plates. I
am using pvc conduit for everything as I want to future proof my house. The
only catch is that it will be inspected and cost me $40 to reinspect for any
mistakes.

Hopefully all this will pay off :)
 
F

Frank Olson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Robert L. Bass said:
Hmm. That reminds me of a little discussion we had in this newsgroup some
months ago. I mentioned how this is a requirement and several of the IB
insisted it is not. :^)


Hmmm... That reminds me of a few little discussions we've had in this
newsgroup some months ago... Something about how you can't run 120VAC and
12VDC into the same junction box, nor can you "mix" voltages in an alarm
panel... I'm still waithing for you to provide "chapter and verse" about
that...

Or how you can't tie an AC smoke alarm into a zone on a burglary panel...
I've yet to see the section of the "US Fire Code" (your words) that
prohibits this.

Or even better... There's a post entitled "Re: 110V outlet to 220V" in this
Group where (once again) you've managed to neatly place your size 13's into
your cake hole. Not only that but you've freely admitted to doing work
outside of the scope of your Connecticut L-6 license. I'll bet you're
installing alarm systems in contravention of the Florida Statutes as well...
You've demonstrated your willingness to flout the law on several occasions
in the past and I wouldn't put it past you to continue doing so. Assaulted
anyone with a gun lately??

You must really love the taste of leather...

You're a "maroon", Bass... I find your rantings amusing... At least they
keep me comin' back... :))
 
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