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could alkaline battery leak onto circuit board cause problems ?

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by robb, Sep 12, 2007.

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  1. robb

    robb Guest


    I think i have found the residue of alkaline battery leakage onto a
    malfunctioning circuit board ?
    could this cause problems ? what is best way to clean a circuit board ?

    denatured alchohol ?

    thanks for any advice,
  2. Alasdair

    Alasdair Guest

    If the battery is a Duracell, they will replace the entire unit or pay
    the price of a new one. That happened to me with a £100 radio.
  3. Yes. The best way to clean it up is with household ammonia on a cotton swab.
    You should then use alcohol for a final "flush".
  4. robb

    robb Guest

    oh how i wish,

    no these were panasonic and probably 10 years old

    thanks for info, good to know,
  5. robb

    robb Guest

    denatured alcohol or is isoprophyl (91%) ok sustitute ?

    thanks for the helpful reply,
  6. denatured alcohol or is isopropyl (91%) ok sustitute?

    Either should work, but I've always used isopropyl, and have never had
  7. Arfa Daily

    Arfa Daily Guest

    Proper electronics grade isopropyl alcohol, is 99.7%

  8. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    Yes,electrolytes and their salts ARE conductive.
    for an -alkaline- leak,you need to use a weak acid,like white
    vinegar;inexpensive and readily available.
    then rinse with distilled water,dry thoroughly.That's where your alcohol
    wil help get rid of moisture.
  9. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    neutralize alkaline with an acid;cheap household white vinegar is effective
    and widely available.

    Ammonia is nasty compared to vinegar.
  10. Nasty or not it is also not acid, but alkaline.
  11. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    I wasn't sure about that.
    I'd rather breathe vinegar fumes than ammonia fumes.
    Vinegar is probably safer to use,too.
  12. Yes. The best way to clean it up is with household ammonia on
    I've been using household ammonia for years, and have never had problems.

    Household ammonia is alkaline, and dissolves (alkaline) battery leaks quite
  13. robb

    robb Guest

    I was about to ask if using an alkaline would help dissolve or remove
    alkaline better than say using an acid which would have a reaction and is
    there any possibility of damage to board with reaction taking place there
    even though it is a neutralizing reaction ?

    the leak seems to have spread up under some ICs as well would flushing be
    sufficient ? as i cann ot get swab under well maybe i just get a thin strip
    of paper and feed under the ends

    thanks for the help and suggestions ,
  14. Water is probably all you need to remove conductive (ionic)
    contamination. Use a blast of hot water through a small
    piece of tubing, if you can manage that, to jet the water
    under components. Finish with a distilled water rinse and
    remove most of the water with a jet of compressed air, if
    you have that, and a thorough dry in a warm place before
    turning power back on. I wouldn't force anything other than
    water or air under parts.
  15. msg

    msg Guest

    I have used small pressure washers (with very small nozzle openings) for
    this task; even a consumer dental pressure washer may be helpful here.


  16. G

    G Guest

    I would just use air after the fluid has a chance to flow under the
    components. I use a Weller hot air gun. I set the temp so the air is slighty
    warm, because air and alcohol can form water. This process has to be repeated
    many times, at times.

  17. Lord Garth

    Lord Garth Guest

    Methyl alcohol can be used to chase the distilled water, then blow it dry.

  18. Using an acid wil create conductive salts that may be difficult to

    Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
    prove it.
    Member of DAV #85.

    Michael A. Terrell
    Central Florida
  19. Guest

    I once had a geiger counter - obtained at a Civil Defense Surplus Sale
    for US$20 - that was destroyed by Eveready batteries. And lest you ask
    why, my wife collects Fiesta Ware and its clones, some colors are
    radioactive so we keep a gieger counter to put those in the "do not
    eat from" set.

    Anyway, based on the guarantee, I sent it off to Eveready. About four
    weeks later, along came a check (and I remember it well) for $329.51
    representing the "inflation-adjusted original price of the damaged
    unit", together with a brief little note suggesting that I not leave
    the batteries in the unit when not in use, especially as they were
    over five years old.

    Needless to say, from that point forward, nothing but Eveready is used
    in our household.

    I did replace the counter with a USN surplus unit, far nicer and more
    sensitive than the one lost. $50 from a similar sale. I splurdged.
    That was 15 years ago and it still serves on rare occasion.

    Peter Wieck
    Wyncote, PA
  20. I once had a geiger counter - obtained at a Civil Defense Surplus Sale

    My experience has been that Duracells are far more likely to leak than
    Energizers. (Other people have had exactly the opposite experience.)

    Several years ago, the Duracell AAs in my digital dictating machine
    (provided with the unit) oozed and damaged the cover door. Duracell promptly
    paid the $16 it cost to replace the door.

    The manufactured in 1969 Polaroid 360 I bought a few years back had Eveready
    alkaline batteries in it that still worked. They've worked since I bought
    it, and only recently started to fade. Amazing. This is a quirk, of course,
    the luck of the draw. I doubt Duracell or Eveready knows how to make
    batteries of this consistent quality.
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