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contact window

C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
with 3/8" stubbies with mini screw terminals, one contact up top one down at
bottom, then the use the super donut magnets. The bottom magnet will be
harder since you have the seal in the way, but you could probably get it in
there vertically.

They're gonna be a PITA...charge extra for this.


| Gotta minute? How would you guys contact this window? Gonna prewire
about
| 50 of um. Any suggestions?
| http://www.vetterwindows.com/Vetter ARG/pdf/Wood Double Hung.pdf
| Clad wood double hung is the first drawing.
| TIA
|
|
 
D

Don

Jan 1, 1970
0
Crash Gordon said:
with 3/8" stubbies with mini screw terminals, one contact up top one down
at
bottom, then the use the super donut magnets. The bottom magnet will be
harder since you have the seal in the way, but you could probably get it
in
there vertically.

drill 3/8" hole straight up on the part of the window inside the seal. hope
its thicker than it looks in that drawing. The switch hole needed to match
the magnet looks a little tight on the inside going out the bottom of the
sill.
They're gonna be a PITA...charge extra for this.

:(
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'd try a supermagnet first, looks like you have room to tuck one up beside
the seal.


|
| | > with 3/8" stubbies with mini screw terminals, one contact up top one
down
| > at
| > bottom, then the use the super donut magnets. The bottom magnet will be
| > harder since you have the seal in the way, but you could probably get it
| > in
| > there vertically.
|
| drill 3/8" hole straight up on the part of the window inside the seal.
hope
| its thicker than it looks in that drawing. The switch hole needed to
match
| the magnet looks a little tight on the inside going out the bottom of the
| sill.
|
| >
| > They're gonna be a PITA...charge extra for this.
|
| :(
|
|
|
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Maybe. But the bottom looks hard to do with surface mount, and if there is
no bypass stops they'll knock off the top magnet if the open the top window
past the top of the bottom one.


|
| >Gotta minute? How would you guys contact this window? Gonna prewire
about
| >50 of um. Any suggestions?
|
|
| Man, I might go surface mount with those. The bottom part with the
| groove and tongue leaves very little room for a recessed contact.
|
|
| --
|
| -Graham
| (remove the double e's to email)
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Looks like there's room just inside of the sill seal, which will put your
magnet location in the window seal notch, maybe a vertical rare earth glued
in would work.


| On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 13:42:36 -0700, "Crash Gordon"
|
| >I'd try a supermagnet first, looks like you have room to tuck one up
beside
| >the seal.
|
|
| Where are you gonna drill the switch on the sill? Hopefully on the
| inside of the opening, but then the seal is in the way of the mag. I
| have seen installers slit the seal and put a rare-E mag inside it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| --
|
| -Graham
| (remove the double e's to email)
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
I hate double hungs.
AND,,,it says these are Tilt...who knows how that works...I don't have the
patience to figure it out from the drawing.


| On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 13:47:10 -0700, "Crash Gordon"
|
| >Maybe. But the bottom looks hard to do with surface mount,
|
|
| I'd drill right down through the sill 1/4" away from the movable part
| of the window for the bottom contact.
|
| > and if there is
| >no bypass stops they'll knock off the top magnet if the open the top
window
| >past the top of the bottom one.
|
|
| True, never thought of that. Maybe recess on top and surface on
| bottom?
|
|
| --
|
| -Graham
| (remove the double e's to email)
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hell no that won't work! The bottom sill has a flange that goes up INTO the
window seal channel.

May have to put it in the side track, the windows tilt so maybe
possible...who knows...??

Triple time on these puppies.


| Looks like there's room just inside of the sill seal, which will put your
| magnet location in the window seal notch, maybe a vertical rare earth
glued
| in would work.
|
|
| || On Mon, 23 Oct 2006 13:42:36 -0700, "Crash Gordon"
||
|| >I'd try a supermagnet first, looks like you have room to tuck one up
| beside
|| >the seal.
||
||
|| Where are you gonna drill the switch on the sill? Hopefully on the
|| inside of the opening, but then the seal is in the way of the mag. I
|| have seen installers slit the seal and put a rare-E mag inside it.
||
||
||
||
||
||
||
|| --
||
|| -Graham
|| (remove the double e's to email)
|
|
 
A

alarman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Crash Gordon said:
Hell no that won't work! The bottom sill has a flange that goes up INTO
the
window seal channel.

May have to put it in the side track, the windows tilt so maybe
possible...who knows...??

Triple time on these puppies.

Alarm screens.
js
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
on tilting windows?

lots of glassbreaks and pirs, do the doors, and screw the windows shut :)



| | > Hell no that won't work! The bottom sill has a flange that goes up INTO
| > the
| > window seal channel.
| >
| > May have to put it in the side track, the windows tilt so maybe
| > possible...who knows...??
| >
| > Triple time on these puppies.
|
| Alarm screens.
| js
|
|
 
D

Don

Jan 1, 1970
0
Crash Gordon said:
on tilting windows?

lots of glassbreaks and pirs, do the doors, and screw the windows shut :)


if I could get the rare earth magnet in the slot where it wouldn't obstruct
the sill flange that would be ideal. from there the 3/8" switch would be an
easy drill shot. Or those little magnet tabs RLB posted looks like they
might fit in the gap between window and sill according to the drawing
saving 1 drill shot per switch.
I get a litlle nervous drilling some of these new $$$ windows.
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Yah but at least you won't be drilling towards the glass...the rare earth
mags are a godsend in that respect.

I've also used a 3/8" Forstner bit to slightly recess those rare earth mags
and they come out sweet....but nerve-wracking and time consuming. You may
want to think on that as well. Careful with that dry wood too, especially
Pellas they seem to use the dryest splinter-prone wood. You have to say a
prayer before drill these puppies.





|
| | > on tilting windows?
| >
| > lots of glassbreaks and pirs, do the doors, and screw the windows shut
:)
|
|
| if I could get the rare earth magnet in the slot where it wouldn't
obstruct
| the sill flange that would be ideal. from there the 3/8" switch would be
an
| easy drill shot. Or those little magnet tabs RLB posted looks like they
| might fit in the gap between window and sill according to the drawing
| saving 1 drill shot per switch.
| I get a litlle nervous drilling some of these new $$$ windows.
|
|
 
A

alarman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Crash Gordon said:
on tilting windows?
|
| Alarm screens.

Sure. The tilting winders I've seen tilt in for cleaning. If not, they'll
have to remove the screens.
js
 
A

alarman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Crash Gordon said:
Yah but at least you won't be drilling towards the glass...the rare earth
mags are a godsend in that respect.

I've also used a 3/8" Forstner bit to slightly recess those rare earth
mags
and they come out sweet....but nerve-wracking and time consuming. You may
want to think on that as well. Careful with that dry wood too, especially
Pellas they seem to use the dryest splinter-prone wood. You have to say a
prayer before drill these puppies.

Always wanted to try a brace and bit on those. Would be easy to control;it's
a bummer when the drill catches and goes in too fast. I just use a variable
speed drill motor on reeeeel low speed.
js
 
J

Jim

Jan 1, 1970
0
Don said:
Gotta minute? How would you guys contact this window? Gonna prewire about
50 of um. Any suggestions?
http://www.vetterwindows.com/Vetter ARG/pdf/Wood Double Hung.pdf
Clad wood double hung is the first drawing.
TIA


Ok I guess I've got to teach all you guys how to do this.



There's obviously always enough room on the bottom sill to drill a 3/8
inch hole for a recessed switch close to ( but not butt up against)
the outside edge of the inside window sill.
Drill the hole straight down, not at an angle. Then use a counter sink
to ream the edge
of the hole so that even though the switch is sitting straight down in
the angled sill
the switch will sit flush and a little below the angle of the sill.....
in a slight recess. You want to drill straight down so the drill bit
doesn't come out of the wall before you get to the bay. Also, if it's
new construction, and the molding isn't on yet, you'll leave the switch
and or the wires exposed to the trim guy.
Order your 3/8 contacts without magnets.

Now you take a dowel center punch and set it in the 3/8 hole and bring
the sash down so that the dowel punch leaves a mark in the bottom of
the sash, directly opposite the
center of the hole. This indent will usually wind up somewhere between
the weather strip and the inside edge of the sash.

Order 1/4 inch rare earth magnets which will fit between the weather
strip and the inside
edge of the sash. counter bore the hole ( ie flat bottom bit) on the
bottom of the sash between the weather strip and the inside edge of the
sash. Even if the indent from the dowel center punch didn't wind up
between the weather strip and the inside of the sash, put the magnet
there anyway, just lined up with the mark. The rare earth mag will
still hold it in.
I get Tane rare earth 1/4 inch magnets, only because they're
convenient. They have to be cemented in and caulked, because they don't
have a center hole.

On the top sash, order your surface contacts without magnets. Drill
through the side top of the window as close to the top and sash, as you
can. Above the track, where the hole can't be seen, if you can.
Sometimes you can or have to drill up, but then you have to caulk/hide
the hole. Use a surface mount switch mounted a half to one inch away
from the side track. To avoid the magnet from being knocked off when
the sashes pass one another, after you've mounted the switch, close
the sash and put a mark on the sash where one end of the switch is.
Just inside the switch side of the line, drill a counter bore hole for
the 1/4 inch rare earth mag as close to the top edge of the sash as you
can, without taking a chance that you wont leave enough meat .....
Cement and then cover the hole and magnet with caulking. People usually
don't mind the surface mount on the top sash and I use it rather than
another recessed, because it saves time.

Been doing it this way for about 4/5years now. It's a little elaborate
with a number of steps but if you do it production style, ( perform the
same operation on all the windows at the same time) it works great.

I haven't posted this before because I know Jack-off Bass is going to
steal it ..... but what the hell.
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Yep...and pray.

I actually used to carry a brace & bit in the old days for when my cordless
went dead on that very freekin last contact, the sun's going down and 80
miles from civilization...came in handy.


| | > Yah but at least you won't be drilling towards the glass...the rare
earth
| > mags are a godsend in that respect.
| >
| > I've also used a 3/8" Forstner bit to slightly recess those rare earth
| > mags
| > and they come out sweet....but nerve-wracking and time consuming. You
may
| > want to think on that as well. Careful with that dry wood too,
especially
| > Pellas they seem to use the dryest splinter-prone wood. You have to say
a
| > prayer before drill these puppies.
|
| Always wanted to try a brace and bit on those. Would be easy to
control;it's
| a bummer when the drill catches and goes in too fast. I just use a
variable
| speed drill motor on reeeeel low speed.
| js
|
|
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
He already did an put a copyright on it.

Anyway...you didn't see the bottom flange that fits into the bottom weather
seal groove of the bottom window...maybe Dremel tool time on that.


|
| Don wrote:
| > Gotta minute? How would you guys contact this window? Gonna prewire
about
| > 50 of um. Any suggestions?
| > http://www.vetterwindows.com/Vetter ARG/pdf/Wood Double Hung.pdf
| > Clad wood double hung is the first drawing.
| > TIA
|
|
| Ok I guess I've got to teach all you guys how to do this.
|
|
|
| There's obviously always enough room on the bottom sill to drill a 3/8
| inch hole for a recessed switch close to ( but not butt up against)
| the outside edge of the inside window sill.
| Drill the hole straight down, not at an angle. Then use a counter sink
| to ream the edge
| of the hole so that even though the switch is sitting straight down in
| the angled sill
| the switch will sit flush and a little below the angle of the sill.....
| in a slight recess. You want to drill straight down so the drill bit
| doesn't come out of the wall before you get to the bay. Also, if it's
| new construction, and the molding isn't on yet, you'll leave the switch
| and or the wires exposed to the trim guy.
| Order your 3/8 contacts without magnets.
|
| Now you take a dowel center punch and set it in the 3/8 hole and bring
| the sash down so that the dowel punch leaves a mark in the bottom of
| the sash, directly opposite the
| center of the hole. This indent will usually wind up somewhere between
| the weather strip and the inside edge of the sash.
|
| Order 1/4 inch rare earth magnets which will fit between the weather
| strip and the inside
| edge of the sash. counter bore the hole ( ie flat bottom bit) on the
| bottom of the sash between the weather strip and the inside edge of the
| sash. Even if the indent from the dowel center punch didn't wind up
| between the weather strip and the inside of the sash, put the magnet
| there anyway, just lined up with the mark. The rare earth mag will
| still hold it in.
| I get Tane rare earth 1/4 inch magnets, only because they're
| convenient. They have to be cemented in and caulked, because they don't
| have a center hole.
|
| On the top sash, order your surface contacts without magnets. Drill
| through the side top of the window as close to the top and sash, as you
| can. Above the track, where the hole can't be seen, if you can.
| Sometimes you can or have to drill up, but then you have to caulk/hide
| the hole. Use a surface mount switch mounted a half to one inch away
| from the side track. To avoid the magnet from being knocked off when
| the sashes pass one another, after you've mounted the switch, close
| the sash and put a mark on the sash where one end of the switch is.
| Just inside the switch side of the line, drill a counter bore hole for
| the 1/4 inch rare earth mag as close to the top edge of the sash as you
| can, without taking a chance that you wont leave enough meat .....
| Cement and then cover the hole and magnet with caulking. People usually
| don't mind the surface mount on the top sash and I use it rather than
| another recessed, because it saves time.
|
| Been doing it this way for about 4/5years now. It's a little elaborate
| with a number of steps but if you do it production style, ( perform the
| same operation on all the windows at the same time) it works great.
|
| I haven't posted this before because I know Jack-off Bass is going to
| steal it ..... but what the hell.
|
 
J

Jim

Jan 1, 1970
0
Crash said:
He already did an put a copyright on it.

Anyway...you didn't see the bottom flange that fits into the bottom weather
seal groove of the bottom window...maybe Dremel tool time on that.
Didn't see any dimensions. There's got to be at least a 1/4 inch
between the weatherstrip and the inside of the sash ...... No?

But even if there isn't, then you can drill the 1/4 inch hole in the
front surface of the sash down near the very bottom of the window and
cover it with caulk. When the window is all the way down, it'll be
hidden behind the edge of the inside window sill.
 
R

Robert L Bass

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hell no that won't work! The bottom sill has a flange that goes up INTO the
window seal channel.

No problem. I should have mentioned it but it's easy to snip off 3/8" of the flange. Since it's not part of the sash that won't
affect warranty should the window develop a problem later.
May have to put it in the side track, the windows tilt so maybe
possible...who knows...??

That often works but on some modern windows the counter balance employs a braided nylon cord which rides behind a plastic extrusion
in the side track. If this should be the case with these particular windows drilling there can wreck the system. They are a royal
pain to replace if you cut through the cord.
Triple time on these puppies.

Nah. They don't take any more time than a conventional, wooden, double-hund window.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>
 
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