Coffe maker switch wiring

[KarlB]

Hi..

I have a Black & Decker Smartbrew coffee maker with a broken switch. The
switch has three leads (black, blue, red) one of which is for the light I
assume and the other two for power.

I want to replace the switch with a simple two-wire one, but I cannot figure
out which two of the three leads to use. Experimentation could blow
something up. I've looked for a coffee maker circuit diagram which might
give a clue, but have not found one.

Any recommendations, other than throwing it out? - (it works great).

Ken

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

If the switch is still physically in one piece, take a look at the contact
arrangement. The switched pair of wires are usually the furthest apart pair
of contacts. There may also be a plastic "guide" or barrier that keeps the
two wires that represent opposing sides of the AC line away from one another
to prevent shorting.

If the switch is not in one piece or you haven't got it...take a look at the
circuit. Chances are good that the circuit switches the heater on directly.
You need to switch a wire coming in from the power supply and energize the
heating element. The other wire you have left over will be connected to the
other side of the line cord and can be ignored or used with another lighted
switch.

In the worst case, the most you will blow is a fuse if you get it wrong.

William

 

[Ken Weitzel]

Hi!

If the switch is still physically in one piece, take a look at the contact
arrangement. The switched pair of wires are usually the furthest apart pair
of contacts. There may also be a plastic "guide" or barrier that keeps the
two wires that represent opposing sides of the AC line away from one another
to prevent shorting.

If the switch is not in one piece or you haven't got it...take a look at the
circuit. Chances are good that the circuit switches the heater on directly.
You need to switch a wire coming in from the power supply and energize the
heating element. The other wire you have left over will be connected to the
other side of the line cord and can be ignored or used with another lighted
switch.

In the worst case, the most you will blow is a fuse if you get it wrong.

Hi...

If I may I'd like to add one more caution to that, even though
it may be obvious. (I'm the over-cautious old guy, I guess)

In the OP's original post, he left me with the impression that
he's probably a bit of a beginner, so after he finishes up, make
sure that the switch does indeed shut it off. If not, there's a
risk in that a failure of the thermostat and thermal fuse would
be a terrible fire hazard.

Take care.

Ken

 

[Radiosrfun]

Hi...

If I may I'd like to add one more caution to that, even though
it may be obvious. (I'm the over-cautious old guy, I guess)

In the OP's original post, he left me with the impression that
he's probably a bit of a beginner, so after he finishes up, make
sure that the switch does indeed shut it off. If not, there's a
risk in that a failure of the thermostat and thermal fuse would
be a terrible fire hazard.

Take care.

Ken

And the study I seen - suggested they are truly fire hazards. Personally,
"I" don't trust them and unplug mine when done brewing. So - the last
statement was a very good one indeed.

Lou

 

[KarlB]

I did examine the switch and decided power would have flowed from the
center connector and the outside connector...it had to be the blue and red
wire across the switch. Black and red would have been a direct short of A/C,
and black and blue would and connected both ends of the heater together.

I probably should have examined the problem a little closer before asking
for help. The coffee maker is working now.

Thanks, all.