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Cheapie 2.1 Speaker Set with static in left speaker

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Peale, May 29, 2007.

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  1. Peale

    Peale Guest

    While dumpster diving I found a 2.1 speaker set. Static in the left

    I swapped speakers, problem persisted. I swapped the op amp out with a
    known good one, same thing.

    I'm new to this kind of thing, so I'm a bit perplexed as what to try next.
    It's not the source, I've tried several different sources. Wiring appears
    to be okay. Sound to the subwoofer and the right speaker is okay.
  2. I googled your problem and I got 40,020,203,029,209,102,683,204,603
    hits and they all say that you get what you pay for.
    But if you want to buy a new speaker system just google your problem
    yourself and click on one of the 50,000,000 advertisments on the top.
  3. Dave

    Dave Guest

    Look at the mixer IC. It generally does tone control/balance/volume. Cost
    about $4 to replace. If there are any discrete transistors, and I doubt
    there are, try tapping them with something non-metallic and see if it
    affects the sound. Otherwise, throw it away, ain't worth your time.
  4. Peale

    Peale Guest

    Well, "duh." But what fun is that?
  5. Peale

    Peale Guest

    It's a back-burner project, just something I've been tinkering around
    with in my spare time. I'll check the mixer IC tonight.
  6. Guest

    in which speaker?
    Just short the audio out at the various points in the signal chain
    (dont short power amp output tho). When shorting before a stage made
    no difference & shorting after it killed crackling, you know where its
    coming from. Prodding with a bit of plastic also helps locate if its a
    dry joint.

  7. Peale

    Peale Guest

    wrote in the left speaker. If the problem traveled, I'd have found my
    problem. ;-)
    I touched up every joint I could, esp. the connectors on the PCB.

    What do you mean, short the points? Take a wire and jump the signal
    closer along in the chain to the output?
  8. Dave

    Dave Guest

    No, jump the signal to ground. You're effectively killing the audio signal
    input from that point on. If the crackling persists, that means it's being
    introduced downstream of the point you've shorted. Just keep moving
    downstream along the signal path until the crackling goes away. The
    component just upstream of your jumper point is the likely culprit.
  9. Arfa Daily

    Arfa Daily Guest

    That is the preferred way of pinning down a problem like this, and is often
    more effective than using a 'scope to try to distinguish between the crackly
    noise, and the inherent stage noise. I would, however, warn agains employing
    a direct shorting wire to do the job, unless you have schematics for an amp
    to know exactly the 'safe' points to apply a direct ground connection to.
    There are places that you certainly don't want to short directly to ground,
    if you want the components to keep their magic smoke locked in. I would
    recommend that you use a 47uF 35v capacitor, negative leg to ground, as your
    'shorting wire'. The actual value isn't critical - whatever comes to hand.

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