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CB/ballast on a OTTlite

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by Skeeter5000, Nov 19, 2018.

  1. Skeeter5000

    Skeeter5000

    2
    0
    Nov 19, 2018
    Hello everyone, Just signed up. I would like to repair a power supply/ballast/printed board
    on a Ottlite slimline desk lamp. This is a model # GX7825, 13 watt, 0.21a unit. I have voltage to the input on the board but no output. I have search for a ballast on the web but no information so far.

    I have not checked with Ottlite as their prices are in orbit. i.e. $30.00 for a lamp. (Ottlite 13w(E)600lm)

    This lamp has a pcb for the lamp power. it is a small board, and looks to have a couple of voltage
    regulators on it, along with a few resisters and couple of capacitors. It also has a very small transformer.

    I need some information as to how to check out this circuit. I would like to repair this lamp,
    as it belongs to my daughter and she likes it. I don't have a scope.

    Can any one suggest a source or possible repair/replacement, short of a new lamp.
    Could I use a small transformer in place of the pcb type. Maybe a wall wart.
     
  2. Tha fios agaibh

    Tha fios agaibh

    1,923
    605
    Aug 11, 2014
    Its usually not practical to repair a ballast.
    Even if you find the bad parts, finding the replacements will be a challenge.

    Your better off just replacing it with one that matches the lamp type and wattage (don't worry about fixture number).
    You might be able to buy something like this https://www.amazon.com/113SHPTP-Watt-Magnetic-Ballast-Keystone/dp/B00AZYPWOA

    If it physically doesn't fit, you may be able to remove the outer metal case and harvest the circuit board.
     
  3. dave9

    dave9

    807
    188
    Mar 5, 2017
    What I would do is mount a piece of plate aluminum in it as a heatsink, where the CFL tube was, put 6 x 3W LEDs on the plate, and run them at 1W each as two parallel series of 3 LEDs each, powered by a 12V (~1A rating is common and plenty of margin) switching wall wart (AC/DC adapter).

    This should end up slightly brighter than the original which was probably around 600lm. Could even end up twice as bright depending on which LEDs you choose, but it's up to you what current to set within the limitations of how much heatsink you can stuff in the housing. 6 x @ 1W should be easy.

    Since it's coming from AC mains instead of batteries, I might cheap out and simplify by using a couple series resistors for current limiting instead of a current regulated driver.
     
  4. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    2,728
    1,118
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Skeeter 5000 . . . . .

    The first generations of that specific table lamp used a magnetic ballast.
    In your case, the lamps E suffix indicates its being for electronic ballast. Plus you described its PCB.
    The OTT one shown had a popped power transistor at the very top, with the resistor to the right, beside it, burned open, along with a resultant and final open AC line pigtail fuse .

    If you give GOOD, both side, squared up and focused photos, maybe we can troubleshoot . . .sans . . .silly scope.

    You just sort of have to buy it to try it when transitioning to LED conversion, instead. You just might not like their resultant color spectral coverage . . .AT ALL.

    REFERENCE . . . .
    upload_2018-11-20_1-28-6.png


    73's de Edd
    . . . . . . . . .


    If God wanted me to touch my toes, he would have put them on my knees.
     
    Richard9025 likes this.
  5. Skeeter5000

    Skeeter5000

    2
    0
    Nov 19, 2018
    Hi forum members, Thanks for your replies.

    Mr. 73's de Edd, you show the picture of the unit I was referring to. I think this is very good work.

    Looking at the pb in the lamp I have, I did not see anything burned, the fuse seems
    ok, checking with an ohmmeter. This was checking in circuit. I did not disconnect it
    from its place on the board. I will check on the components closer. Thanks for this
    explanation.
     
  6. showmeattachments

    showmeattachments

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    0
    Feb 22, 2019
    I recently repaired this same lamp. Same problem as you described, nothing burnt or loose on the ballast. Testing the 2 transistors with my multimeter showed one was bad. Part # 13003.

    I went to the local thrift store, bought an old 13w cfl light bulb for 75 cents, cracked open the plastic base and it had the same "13003" transistors as the ottlite. Transplanted them into the ottlite and it's now working 100%.
     
  7. Bluejets

    Bluejets

    3,519
    714
    Oct 5, 2014
  8. dave9

    dave9

    807
    188
    Mar 5, 2017
    ^ Or they have "Used Very Good" one for $21, so you get a working ballast, bulb, then take the left over carcass and do that LED retrofit I mentioned previously. It looks like a wonderful host for that as long as the heatsink isn't heavy enough to prevent its hinges from holding the desired head position.

    I don't mind T8 4' fluorescent lighting but I'm no fan of the short lived and inefficient smaller tubes, they are (to me) clearly an area where a pleasant color temperature LED replacement is superior.
     
    Bluejets likes this.
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