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Can you identify this part for me ?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by Quovadis, Dec 28, 2017.

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  1. Quovadis

    Quovadis

    15
    0
    Jul 26, 2017
    Hi all , I am trying to repair a towel warmer .... yes I know a towel warmer ??? yes , its a small little oven that warms moist towels to a certain temperature which are then applied to the joints of the body to ease the pain of arthritis etc....

    Back to the plot .... the oven is working fine .... but inside the oven is a small light that gives off an ultraviolet glow to kill any bacteria that may come from the body when placing the towels back in the oven for reheating

    Its this bulb that doesn't work .

    sense says that its obvious the bulb needs replacing , so trying this bulb in another similar device ( tooth brush sanitizer ) the bulb works fine

    The fault therefore must be within the oven . I note there is an isolation switch at the back of the oven for the light , which when switched on doesn't do anything or illuminate,so I have gone further took the back of the oven and found this component soldered inline to the switch which I think could be the fault and needs replacing HOWEVER, I am not sure what it is PLUS there seems to be a link component that links both ends of the large component and encapsulated in plastic ...So can I bow down to your valued experience and tell me what it is and can I order this item as one part or two separate parts ? Please see the attached photographs.

    Any help really appreciated towel part 1.JPG towel part 2.JPG towel part 1.JPG towel part 1.JPG towel part 4 .JPG towel part 3.JPG towel part 2.JPG
     
  2. kellys_eye

    kellys_eye

    4,275
    1,146
    Jun 25, 2010
    That's a large polystyrene capacitor with (probably) a resistor across it (for discharge) and potentially (I say potentially because I can't see the rest of the circuitry) to power said light - which may be a UV LED????

    Such capacitors are used as volt-droppers to power low voltage circuits/devices directly from the AC mains supply.

    Can't tell the value as the relevant number(s) are further around the body.....
     
  3. Quovadis

    Quovadis

    15
    0
    Jul 26, 2017
    Thank you for the info ... you are correct with the UV light ... the only markings or values are what is shown in the uploads I have just had another look to make sure and no, nothing else . Tracing the wires one does go direct to the bulb holder for sure the other links into the switch on the door to ensure the light goes off when the door is opened ...
     
  4. Robert_fay

    Robert_fay

    124
    34
    Jun 15, 2017
    I found this, and agree that it is a poly cap, however not able to tell a value.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Quovadis

    Quovadis

    15
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    Jul 26, 2017
    Thank you for the time given for research and reply .... Mmm I am stuck also as there are no other markings on this item ... any suggestions ??
     
  6. Quovadis

    Quovadis

    15
    0
    Jul 26, 2017
    Hi someone else has agreed with your recognition ,and kindly shown a diagram, but how can I determine the value or replacment parts from what I have ?? any ideas ??
     
  7. Robert_fay

    Robert_fay

    124
    34
    Jun 15, 2017
  8. kellys_eye

    kellys_eye

    4,275
    1,146
    Jun 25, 2010
    The 425J reading equates to 4.2μF so the value seems correct.
     
  9. Robert_fay

    Robert_fay

    124
    34
    Jun 15, 2017
    This was the closest i found here in the US. I am sure there are other options too. 405PHC600K. 4uF 600V but I think for the application you should be alright.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. kellys_eye

    kellys_eye

    4,275
    1,146
    Jun 25, 2010
    The voltage dropped by the capacitor is a function of both the capacitors value and the frequency of the supply (50Hz or 60Hz) through it - whilst small changes in value may be acceptable it is best to keep as close to the stated value as you can.

    The voltage rating is not negotiable - it should be AT LEAST the stated (or higher).
     
  11. hevans1944

    hevans1944 Hop - AC8NS

    4,535
    2,110
    Jun 21, 2012
    It is more likely that the germicidal lamp or its socket is defective rather than the capacitor. Look for corrosion on the socket contacts, caused by the moist atmosphere inside the towel warmer.

    You can test the capacitor with some multimeters, but you will probably have to clip or unsolder one of the leads going to the paralleled resistor to obtain a valid measurement. Use a single-edge razor blade to remove the shrink tubing at one end of the capacitor, exposing the resistor lead wrapped around the capacitor lead. Carefully heat to unsolder and unwrap the resistor lead. You will put it back later, so get a small supply of suitable diameter shrink tubing to replace what you cut off.

    You may have to unsolder the capacitor lead from the rest of the circuit, too, to get a valid measurement. Check for both capacitance (4.2 microfarads) and leakage. There should no measurable leakage across a polystyrene capacitor, hence the reason to unsolder the paralleled resistor to measure leakage and capacitance.
     
    Robert_fay likes this.
  12. kellys_eye

    kellys_eye

    4,275
    1,146
    Jun 25, 2010
    yes, check that the central contact is actually touching the base of the lamp - it occasionally gets compressed to the point that it fails to reach the base.

    Power OFF when doing this, of course.....
     
  13. Quovadis

    Quovadis

    15
    0
    Jul 26, 2017
    Thank you all for replying , I will do the easiest suggestion first by checking the bulb base and contacts, and even see if there is a voltage present ( never thought of doing that crazy !! ) If there is no voltage then I will look at doing the capacity test .... Just a thought , what about this resister that connects to both ends of the capacitor? Could this be a faulty component or highly unlikely ? Would the light still work without this resistor ? I m thinking test purpose only and then reconnect it before permanent use ?
     
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