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By-pass cooker clock

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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Hi all our Stoves 700GDO cooker is dead - we had problems with the clock being temperamental for a while and now it's finally given up the ghost and taken the cooker with it. I tried changing the capacitor on the board but no joy. Does anybody know if i can bypass the clock somehow? It only has 4 connectors...
 

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73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Scousebil . . . . . . . .


Looks like that when your oven / cooker ? is properly working in its timer mode . . . .these two connections being made to each other is what gives the needed power to the oven.



Re-Reference :

Oven relay connections.jpg


73’s De Edd
 
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Minder

Apr 24, 2015
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If you can see the reverse side of the board, you can check to see if those connection simply go to a relay.
If so you should be able to find a replacement, or possibly jumper the connection if they go to a N.C. contact etc.,
I just replaced a similar one that switches the oven on, Cost: $3.00.
New board price: $220.00
M.
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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I've had the board out and put in a new capacitor although I kind of knew it wouldn't work as it didn't look burned or anything. This is all learning to me ...

I have some knowledge of electronics from diy sos on my cars over the years - have a cheap little gadget which powers 12v systems on, finds bad earths etc and previous to that I built a long piece of wire with small crocodiles on so I could for example, run a known good earth to easily check something - lights etc. But that's about it.

I've always wanted to understand electronics - seems like one of the only areas in my life I don't have even a basic understanding of and it's literally all around me - everywhere! So bear in mind I am learning here ...

So a relay is a switch - i know that much. I will take that one out and order a new one - have nothing to lose. I've found a new board - £70 - ridiculous! And that's cheap - some spare part company's are selling them for over £160!!
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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If you can see the reverse side of the board, you can check to see if those connection simply go to a relay.
If so you should be able to find a replacement, or possibly jumper the connection if they go to a N.C. contact etc.,
I just replaced a similar one that switches the oven on, Cost: $3.00.
New board price: $220.00
M.

Assuming the oblong thing the wires go into is a relay, what's the one next to it doing and can it be swapped ...?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Scousebil . . . . .


If you have pulled and soldered that cap . . . . I suspect the black cap visible in your pic, as I am only seeing, three push on terminals , two relays, 2 resistors, a .68 ufd "dropping cap ? " and the white piezo sounder that responds to your " Is it soup yet? "; along with the black 220-470 ufd ? electrolytic cap.
Is that last mentioned black E-cap . . . being the one that you changed ?

Will the brains of the unit still give beeps at keypad entries ?
Did this just go out overnight . . . . or became progressively more cantankerous over a week or month.
If you have a DVM and a battery we can test relays without having a " ya' gotta buy it to try it " constraint.


73's de Edd
 
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Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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Yes I pulled and soldered the black cap. The clock is completely dead now but was progressively cantankerous over time before giving up the ghost. I have a DVM - I will check out some YouTube video and get back when I've tested them ... Thanks for the replies by the way
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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How do I test it? The videos on YouTube are all for 12v car relays. How do I test this little 6v now I've removed it from the board??
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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Also, why would there be 2 relays with one not connected to anything. If the relay in question is nackard, would it affect anything if I were to replace it with the second? Is the second for a cooker with more timer features?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Scousebil . . . . .

Use 4 1.5 batteries resting in a squared trough to hold in linear alignment and two pieces of bare ended tips of hook up wire.
Have assistant hold wire ends to + and - batts extreme ends and you place the two free ends of the two wires to the relay coil and then you will be able do an initial combined hearing / feeling of the coil responding to the applied power to the relay..
If clickee-clickee . . . .feelee-feelee . . .THEN do an electrical test of the contacts action by using clip leads between the relay contact pins and the use of the LOW ohms scale of a DVM. The relay contacts should short out each time you activate its coil electrically.

HOWEVER . . . . I think that you are going to be having a good relay anyhow.

We COULD use a closeup photo of the relay with its markups on its top side and bottom side.

Additionally and MORE importantly, a full frame . . .squared off . . .in focus . . .well lit . . .closeup photo of both sides of the PCB to evaluate and see just exactly what you have there.

Also, why would there be 2 relays with one not connected to anything ?

I can't see the actual mounting on of an unused relay, instead of just unpopulated holes . . . . .by the PENNY PINCHER manuf's, but, if so, you just might have yourself a virgin relay there.

73's de Edd
 
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Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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Tried the batteries in series - had sparking so knew it was working but no clicking. Decided to bypass it by joining the two wires that led to this relay and the oven is working. Does this definitely point to a faulty relay??
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Nope . . . . that only confirmed my VERY first info that the connecting of that pair activates the oven proper.
Need the other requested photos to see WHAT a blind-deaf-and dumb person, that I currently am being on this end, can then analyze to get all working again.
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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I F'd it!! It went bang - seemed to be when one wire touched accidentally touched another - they were all well insulated but still. Tripped electricity but all is fine now I've changed my underpants. The oven still seems to be trying to work like it was so haven't completely screwed the cooker. Probably need a new board now. Doh!
 

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Minder

Apr 24, 2015
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Those Tyco Schrack relays should be available almost anywhere, usually around $3.00 ea.!
M.
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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Is there any way of me fixing the board now it's shorted out? Is it just a case of testing each component individually for the fault?
 

Minder

Apr 24, 2015
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What i usually do in a case like this is to 'reverse engineer' the board, as much as possible, this gives a clue on what may be wrong and the items that can be tested.
Draw out the schematic on paper.
M.
 

Scousebil

Apr 8, 2017
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Ok cheers i'll have a go. It looks ok. I could have blown the other relay which may have served some purpose. It wouldn't really cost that much to replace all the components on the board especially when comparing it to a new one but i will learn how to test as many as i can before i do that
 
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