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Brand Recommendations For Swamp Coolers?

Discussion in 'Home Power and Microgeneration' started by Owen Reese, Jul 2, 2007.

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  1. Owen Reese

    Owen Reese Guest

    I'm looking to get a swamp cooler in the $300 or so neighborhood . Been looking at
    web pages and reviews are really hard to find. I have come across a few, have sorta
    elminated a couple from consideration.

    This would be for a room about 20 x 20. Easy mainentance (like pads/filters) and
    quietness a plus ;)

    I'm looking at a Symphony Sumo Jr from Amazon. Also on my short list are Sunpentown
    SF-608R, Newair AF-320 or AF-330

    Are there any reviews anywhere? Anyone have personal experiences/recommendations?

    tia
     
  2. Steve Spence

    Steve Spence Guest

    Where do you live?
     
  3. Guest

    We've used a Bonaire Vail for the last month. Holds 7 gallons. 60W
    low, 80 medium, 100W high. About $235 at Home Depot. Manufacturer's
    page http://www.bonaire.com.au/products/products4.html Simple
    construction, mostly plastic. Assembles quickly without tools. Filler
    door is small, it's fine for a hose but might be messy if you were
    filling it with a bucket. Fan is very powerful even on low, and is
    kinda' loud on high. Rolls nicely on smooth surfaces, but when full
    it's pretty heavy. I shopped around a fair bit and it seemed the best
    combination of price and efficiency.

    Wayne
     
  4. Guest

    I'd vote for the Sumo, since it can evaporate 4 liters per hour (about
    9K Btu/h), vs 0.45 and 0.65 liters for the others. Or a Mastercool MMB8.
    Turn it on with a thermostat when the room temp rises to 80 F and run
    a small exhaust fan with a humidistat when the room RH rises to 60%.

    Nick
     
  5. Vaughn Simon

    Vaughn Simon Guest

    It all relative (in more ways than one). Here in South Florida, the swamp
    cooler would be the energy hog.

    Vaughn
     
  6. betsyb

    betsyb Guest

    Pardon my ignorance, what is a swamp cooler?

    --

    "Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with
    the intention of arriving safely in an attractive
    and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in
    one hand, Starbucks in the other, totally worn
    out and screaming, "WOO HOO. what a ride!"


    BetsyB
     
  7. Rod Speed

    Rod Speed Guest

    No way, its completely unpardonable.
    One that cools by evaporating water.

    As opposed to the main alternative that cools by a refrigeration system.
     
  8. Rick Blaine

    Rick Blaine Guest

    ....with the definition of "high" being anything above 20% RH. Basically, a good
    rule of thumb is that if they aren't stocked at the local Home Depot or Lowes,
    you shouldn't be thinking about buying one. The damage you can do in a very
    short time by injecting that much moisture into a house is amazing.
     
  9. Guest

    The $298 Mastercool Mobile MMB10 (Grainger 5MU36) has a garden hose
    connection and draws 3.5 amps at 120 V. Adobe Air says it can cool
    2000 cfm of 110 F 10% RH air 32 F, about 69K Btu/h (6 tons), like 14
    5K Btu/h window air conditioners :)

    An airtight 20'x20' room with no internal heat gains and 1040 ft^2 of
    R11 walls and ceiling and 1040ft^2/R11 = 95 Btu/h-F of conductance at
    80 F on a 100 F day would only need (100-80)95 = 1900 Btu/h of net
    cooling. Air at 100 F and 10% RH has humidity ratio wo = 0.004 pounds
    of water per pound of dry air, vs wi = 0.012 for 80 F indoor air at
    60% RH. If we evaporate P pounds of water per hour and ventilate with
    C cfm of outdoor air at 0.075 lb/ft^3 and P = 60C0.075(0.012-0.004),
    C = 27.8P. If 1000P = 1900+(100-80)C = 1900+556P, P = 4.3 and C = 119,
    so an MMB10 might run about 100x4.3/69 = 6% of the time and a $55 Lasko
    2155A 16" 90 W 2470 cfm window fan would only run 100x119/2470 = 5%
    of the time, just coasting :) Exhaust air might leave the room via
    the attic, to keep the room cooler.

    For more cooling capacity with dry outdoor air, we might put an MMB10
    (or its MMB8 younger brother) in a box near a window inside a house
    with a Lasko intake fan in the window and use the fan thermostat
    to turn on the cooler when the room temp rises to 80 F and a humidistat
    to turn on the fan when the indoor RH rises to 60%, with 1-way plastic
    film dampers in a box between the cooler and the window to force
    outdoor fan air to flow through the cooler pad when the fan is running
    and make indoor air flow through the cooler when the window fan is not
    running, like this, viewed in a fixed font like Courier:

    left | |
    | |
    ---------
    | |llld| |
    |c| d| | outdoors
    |o| d|f|
    <==|o| d|a| <== With the window fan off, indoor air
    |l| d|n| would flow in through left and right
    |e| d| | dampers lll and rrr. With the fan on,
    |r| d| | damper ddd would open and the fan air
    | |rrrd| | would force lll and rrr closed.
    ---------
    | |
    right

    We might have 4 modes:
    --------------|-----------------------------------------------
    1. no no | off off off
    2. no yes | on off off
    3. yes no | off on on
    4. yes yes | on off on

    Case 3 would maintain indoor comfort with less water than an external
    swamp cooler, for a house with significant natural air leakage, ie
    for almost all houses.

    Nick
     
  10. Guest

    An airtight 20'x20' room with no internal heat gains and 1040 ft^2 of
    Then again, the $20 nuclear bong cooler referenced here:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bong_cooler

    made about 8K Btu/h with 30" of 6" PVC pipe and a 6" fan. The sidearm
    might have 2 6" fans with backdraft dampers, one pushing room air into
    the arm and another pushing in air from a window, with 4 modes:
    --------------|-----------------------------------------------
    1. no no | off off off
    2. no yes | on off off
    3. yes no | off on on
    4. yes yes | on off on

    Nick
     
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