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Boss BCB-60 effects pedal board

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by N_Cook, Apr 19, 2010.

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  1. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    Is there a problem with the 1/4 inch sockets on these? Especially the input
    one that must take a lot of guitar lead yanking. They are the flimsey
    domestic, no name, hifi type things and used vertically at floor level so
    any stage crud gets in them.
    Intermittant through-signal drop and I cannot induce collectively or
    individually and will have to check the internals of all 5 pedals plus
    daisy-chain leads etc. Will probably change that first socket anyway,
    whatever else found
     
  2. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    I'd probably try cleaning them first with contact cleaner or alcohol.
    If they feel loose, I'd change them. Check for bad/broken solder
    joints. Wiggle any internal wires and check for intermittents, or high
    resistances. I haven't worked on one of these, but that's my general
    route when working on something of that nature. Sometimes if it's
    been wet, something spilled in it... the plating can start coming off
    of the contacts on cheap jacks. So maybe check for that...

    lllllllllllllllllll


    Although metal mounting bushes on these sockets, it discuises the fact that
    all behind is flimsey plastic. The one taking the in-use strain had its tip
    contact displaced outwards relative to the other one. Making contact, but
    presumably not reliably under temperature change/ grime etc. I replaced both
    with standard robust plastic bush sockets wired together and space made for
    them , being somewhat larger. And checked the internals of the 3 out of 5
    otherwise suspected pedals, and leads.

    Looked inside the board output ones as well, because leads to them could
    have been tripped over at some point.
     
  3. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest


    footprint space 12x13x27mm, so small, a justification for use, logo
    something like HT curved to fit inside an absent semicircle and type numbers
    variously e/b/a/h/g. Sighting through the barrel the tip contact should be
    in line with the centreline (centre of ground contact) but the stressed one
    was 2 to 3mm off line. The rear plastic closure square will come away on
    releasing the pawl. Grotty PbF-looking soldering on the output interboard
    ribbon cables

    Both i/p sockets (as daisy chained so either could be used for lead
    in)replaced with manly ones.

    Another amp roday will have a manly 1/4 inch chassis mount socket replacing
    the pcb mount failed one.
     
  4. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    The amp in front of me , from a combo , so can resonate with the speaker,
    not just i/p socket but most of the pot solderings have failed, 7 yearold
    conventional solder. The large heatsink is bolted to the chassis but not
    the pcb, only anchored via the pot + socket solderings. Board resonates and
    breaks the solder. Either requires standoffs and holes drilled or simpler,
    running hot melt glue on the pot side of the board over the pot pins and
    board for mechanical holding.
    I only ever replace pcb mount i/p 1/4 inch sockets with wired in chassis
    mount ones , usually upside down and wires crossed over.

    Most amps seem to be disigned well electroniucally but lack mechanical
    and/or thermal/aerodynamic design, so often IMHO
     
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