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BOSE Solo 10 Help - No Power Up - Pics + PCB Part List

Discussion in 'Audio' started by Jordan3Dtek, Nov 11, 2018.

  1. Pingo

    Pingo

    9
    1
    Nov 25, 2018
    You're welcome!
    That 21-2 chip is a wild guess, but with my poor knowledge of these parts I do not see another alternative for this so-called secret chip. but it could be decisive, for a possible repair!
    incidentally, it could also be that the FAN chip is broken only. furthermore, it is sensible to measure all the conceived parts, before switching to parts exchange!

    Cheers
     
  2. Jordan3Dtek

    Jordan3Dtek

    11
    1
    Nov 11, 2018
    Ya my honest hope is only the FAN chip, or something I ordered lol. I will definitely try my best to find the offending chip for knowledge, and so I can help you and possibly many others. Might even be able to start an ebay listing with a repair kit if we can find out exactly what is the offending component is, and a certainty that its occurring somewhat frequently.

    **Just wanted to add; Got the board here and I am testing short to ground on pin 5 and 4, the Pin 5 is ground and pin 4 is FET Output, so I think that is correct far as I know.**
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2018
  3. Pingo

    Pingo

    9
    1
    Nov 25, 2018
    We will see if we can bring a solution for the people with this complaint! It is a very common problem with these devices and that looks very coincidental!
    But operating hours will certainly also play a role in many cases. Incidentally, these chips are super sensitive to failures. So do not forget your anti static wristband when soldering these chips.

    Greeting from the Netherlands
     
  4. DarkRye

    DarkRye

    2
    0
    Nov 23, 2019
    Hello Folks!

    Sorry to perform post necromancy, but I am diagnosing my own Bose Solo and need only minor assistance you can provide from your own intact units:

    This unit does not power on or react. Initial inspection at the inputs to the Bridge Rectifier (BR1201) looks good 120V. There is no output across the other two terminals. I removed the faraday cage and found a burned SMD element next to the BR1201 that is likely the follow up problem to replacing the bridge.

    In the absence of schematics, has anyone identified what the bridge and SMD components specs are?

    Best,
    Rye
     

    Attached Files:

  5. dave9

    dave9

    821
    194
    Mar 5, 2017
    ^ The PCB should have a letter/number designating the burnt component. The first letter of that is a strong hint what it is. I can't see the pic very clearly but first guess would be a (c)apacitor or (d)iode.

    Based on your description of "no output across the other two terminals", assuming you had switched the meter to DC volts since it would then be DC, it suggests your bridge rectifier is fried. You could substitute any standard bridge rectifier in the same package size with a 200V or higher rating, and amps in that size would surely be enough, but odds are high it has a part # on the side that you will see when you remove it and then you have a target for a closer to exact replacement or a cost effective equivalent.
     
  6. DarkRye

    DarkRye

    2
    0
    Nov 23, 2019
    I've made some progress actually, the Bridge Rectifier was burned as well.

    Part Identifier "China 1409J GBL06" with spec "DIODE, BRIDGE RECT, 3A, 600V" according to a service manual previously cited in this discussion. This exact part is manufactured by Vishay (GBL06-E3/45), please note that the package size "4-SIP, GBL" matters because this is a through-hole mounted part (http://www.vishay.com/docs/88609/gbl005.pdf).

    In better pictures of an undamaged PCB, it looks like a resistor with the marking "750" on the top. This leads me to believe it is one of the two "75 OHM, 0603, .1W, 5%" spec'd resistors, but when I removed it I noticed that its physical size is 3.2*2.5 mm which corresponds with a Metric: 3225 or EIA: 1210 in the BOM. I inspected a nearby "471" resistor which correctly measures as 470 ohms, but also fails to correspond with the BOM specified size. I believe the other "750" marked resistor, if it is present, is beneath the DSP Faraday cage which I am hesitant to penetrate.

    I think I will just order a "75 OHM 5% 1/2W 1210" from Panasonic to replace it.

    I realize that the package size of a resistor basically doesn't matter when the more pertinent specs match and the part will fit on the footprint, but I was hoping for community insight and to provide some information for folks looking for answers in the future.

    // EDIT: Correct the specification of the Panasonic replacement part.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 23, 2019
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