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Best way to label small project boxes ?

J

Joe

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi guys,

I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small
aluminum project box. It doesn't have to be professional quality, but
I'd like it to look nice at least.

Any suggestions for the best way to label these?

Thanks!
Joe
 
L

Lord Garth

Jan 1, 1970
0
Joe said:
Hi guys,

I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small
aluminum project box. It doesn't have to be professional quality, but
I'd like it to look nice at least.

Any suggestions for the best way to label these?

Thanks!
Joe

Rub on lettering looks neat but you need to carefully align the text if you
are using individual letters as opposed to words. You'll also need a
burnishing tool.
 
P

Patrice.Boudreault

Jan 1, 1970
0
I use P-touch by Brother,it can be use to identify wire too.
 
B

Bob Masta

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi guys,

I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small
aluminum project box. It doesn't have to be professional quality, but
I'd like it to look nice at least.

Any suggestions for the best way to label these?

Thanks!
Joe

The best combination of looks and ease of use that
I've seen is clear laser-printer film with a sticky backing.
I haven't used this myself, but a buddy makes a lot
of custom research equipment for the local university
using this method for his front panels. The results
are very professional looking. The only downside is
that the toner is not scratch-proof, so the index lines
around pots, etc, eventually get scratched by fingernails.

The film covers the entire front panel in one sheet, so
there is none of the fiddling with alignment that you
normally need with rub-ons... everything is as perfect
as it was in your original layout (CAD program, etc).

Hope this helps!



Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
 
P

Peter Bennett

Jan 1, 1970
0
The best combination of looks and ease of use that
I've seen is clear laser-printer film with a sticky backing.
I haven't used this myself, but a buddy makes a lot
of custom research equipment for the local university
using this method for his front panels. The results
are very professional looking. The only downside is
that the toner is not scratch-proof, so the index lines
around pots, etc, eventually get scratched by fingernails.

I've done that, but I print a mirror image of the legend, then glue it
on the panel toner-side-down to protect the toner.
 
J

Jamie

Jan 1, 1970
0
Joe said:
Hi guys,

I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small
aluminum project box. It doesn't have to be professional quality, but
I'd like it to look nice at least.

Any suggestions for the best way to label these?

Thanks!
Joe
i did try one thing and it seem to work. (also for Circuit boards) :)
create your image on a computer graphics program of the face labels.
using a laser printer, print on Photo Ink Jet. clean the surface of
the box face, iron on the image. run under water to free the paper
leaving only the image on the face of the box, then spray
with a clear coating for protection.
this works good because you can even use this method to mark your
drilling spots.
 
R

Robert Monsen

Jan 1, 1970
0
Joe said:
Hi guys,

I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small
aluminum project box. It doesn't have to be professional quality, but
I'd like it to look nice at least.

Any suggestions for the best way to label these?

Thanks!
Joe

Somebody posted this a while ago. I haven't used them.

http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/home/index.htm

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.
 
T

Terry Pinnell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Joe said:
Hi guys,

I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small
aluminum project box. It doesn't have to be professional quality, but
I'd like it to look nice at least.

Any suggestions for the best way to label these?

Thanks!
Joe

For appearance, I'd echo Lord Garth. I've never found any method
superior to rub-down transfers ('Letraset' etc; many brands). But it
certainly does require some patience and a steady hand.

Here are some examples, all done with that method. Usage over 20 years
or so has plainly taken its toll on some of them!
http://www.terrypin.dial.pipex.com/Images/Cases.jpg

More recently I've made a few by inkjet printing onto a transparency
(reversed), carefully cutting to size, and sticking to the surface. I
guess that with practice, I could get to like that method too.
 
B

Bob Masta

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've done that, but I print a mirror image of the legend, then glue it
on the panel toner-side-down to protect the toner.

Great idea! What kind of glue did you use?

Thanks!




Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
 
P

Peter Bennett

Jan 1, 1970
0
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 09:56:07 -0800, Peter Bennett


Great idea! What kind of glue did you use?


3M "Super77" spray adhesive - comes in an aerosol can.
 
J

Joe

Jan 1, 1970
0
Wow!! Thanks a lot for all the great suggestions guys!
 
L

Lord Garth

Jan 1, 1970
0
Peter Bennett said:
3M "Super77" spray adhesive - comes in an aerosol can.

We used spray-on clear coat to protect the burnished lettering.
 
R

Rileyesi

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'm looking for way to label some input and output ports on a small

I use labels that I got from
www.rippedsheets.com .

They have a baot load of label sheets. I have a product that is housed in a
fiberglass NEMA box that is left outdoors. I talked to the folks at ripped
sheets and they have a prosuct that was designed to be put on 55 gallon drums
of toxic waste stored in outdoor fields. I have product in the field for three
years and the labels look just fine.

I make my labels by using Word and print them on a laser printer.

Anyway, they might have a product that will meet your needs.

Good luck.
 
R

Richard

Jan 1, 1970
0
Not sure if you want to do this, but learning the art of Silk Screening is
easy, and leaves professional results.
Speedball has several starter kits.

Most people swear my prototypes were store bought off the shelf.

Richard
 
J

James T. White

Jan 1, 1970
0
Richard said:
Those folks are very expensive!!!

But they do look good and the printing won't wear off. Have you got a more cost
effective supplier for milled front panels?
 
B

Bob Masta

Jan 1, 1970
0
What exactly is Silk Screening?

Usually only appropriate for large runs. You
have a fine mesh screen, formerly made of real
silk but now often polyester or even stainless steel.
It's typically mounted in a wooden frame with
a hinge on the back. You coat the screen with
a sensitizing emulsion. Your panel artwork master
must be opaque black on a clear background.
You lay the artwork over the (dry) coated screen
and expose with a UV lamp (sun lamp, etc), which
hardens the emulsion wherever it hits. Then you
spray the unexposed emulsion away with water.

To screen a panel, you put the piece under the
frame, squirt a line of paint along the top edge
of the screen (above the art part) and then
squeegee the ink down the screen, forcing paint
through onto your piece. Once you have done
all the hard work of making the screen, you can
"pull an impression" (print a new panel) in only
a few seconds per panel.

You can get exquisite resolution with this method
using really fine-mesh screens. You can use
multiple colors by using "block out" solution to
paint over the regions of the screen you don't want
to print. Print the first color, let it dry, wash the
block out away and reapply in a new location,
replace the panel in the exact location, and print
again with another color.

And you can do T shirts in your spare time!


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
 
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