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Best way to get a replacement part for a switch?

Discussion in 'General Electronics Discussion' started by Rob Pearson, Sep 8, 2016.

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  1. Rob Pearson

    Rob Pearson

    Jun 18, 2014
    I bought a USB music keyboard at an electronic shop and didn't notice that the on and off switch was busted. I tried the usual to get it to work by seeing if I could wedge something small it to move it to the on position, but it was flexible and didn't have any resistance whether moved left or right. Moving to on didn't get the keyboard to flash on in the LCD. My first thought was maybe that I could short it to the on position by soldering on the board, but I don't have much experience and thought maybe that might blow something out.

    So, my thought is to take the part out and photograph it and to see if any of the supply stores online have a sales department I could send the picture to to make sure that the part would be exact. It's actually a tiny switch and has to fit in a very small slot.

    Any ideas on fixing this would be appreciated, as well as possible stores that have good customer service for this kind of thing.

  2. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    Aug 21, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 8, 2016
    davenn likes this.
  3. shrtrnd


    Jan 15, 2010
    I think what 73's de Edd is saying, is that it would help us help you, if you told us the make and model of your keyboard.
  4. Rob Pearson

    Rob Pearson

    Jun 18, 2014
    Wow, troll city here...."totally floored us...." !

    This kind of rudeness doesn't really warrent response. I figured it out on my own. I don't imagine a lot of people are going to want to come back when they see these stock responses that aren't really that appropriate all of the time. At least you could show some class and not try to speak for everyone on the site. .Shows an ugly gradeschool bullying.

    If you didn't have to show your rudeness, your mind probably would have had the horsepower to answer an easy question.

    EMU Xboard 49
  5. duke37


    Jan 9, 2011
    Please do not upset 73's de Edd, he is one of the most valued contributors here and can find stuff on the internet that no-one else can find, maybe even a specific little switch. He does need a starting point though. I see no sign of bullying.

    Please provide a good photograph and dimensions. If it is recognised, then it will save going through a miriad of catalogues. Does the switch just connect the power or does it also do other things like bypass some audio circuitry?

    If the switch is separate to the board and connected by two wires, then it should be safe to bypass the switch as you suggest.. If the switch is soldered to a board, then you could do damage if you are not skilled at soldering and get the connections wrong.
  6. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    Aug 21, 2015

    Sir Rob Pearson . . . . . . .

    Using your last MAGIC info submitted . . . . .of . . .EMU Xboard 49 . . . . .did you realize that you totally left it off in the first post ? . . . . .I just initially searched and was floored when I saw ALL of the possibilities. . . .of 10 full pages of 25 USB versions and just waited as did TWO others.
    Now I can easily see that you are having this switch:


    Sure looks like you are dealing with one of the two most common switches being encountered, the other is a toggle switch and this unit is being a slide switch.
    We can not see its back side, but at its simplest version it will only be having two connections and be specified as a Single Pole Single Throw switching action.
    Refinements, enhancing switching, could end up with up to 6 connections on a single switch and be called a Double Pole Double Throw switching action .

    slide switches.png

    In your specific units failure mode, it could have been a lateral blow, which can result in the extended bakelite square just fracturing and popping completely off the unit.

    That usually then leaves a central hole OR an abraded surface where it popped off.
    Then you can use a pointed scribe / etc to still slide that switch remnant laterally to its on position and rely upon unplugging the power supply " brick " until the situation can be resolved.

    The other specific units failure could have been a dropping to a hard floor of that corner of the unit to then subject it to an INWARD pressing / smashing of that protruding slide tab. That can potentially be the absolute worst situation .
    Its all according to the treatment used on the end plate with the switching terminals.
    Some use foldover metal tabs to hold that end plates mounting, that is SO secure that the inward impact to the end plate can crack and fault the contacts.
    Some switch construction s use splayed metal tabs that easily give and let the whole switch end plate get pushed back,float free and then thereby totally losing coupling with the frontal slide portion.

    When it comes to replacing that switch, I have sooooooooo many versions that I can sometimes replace just the broken slide portion . . . .using the rest of the old . . . .actually new, in your case
    . . . . portion of the unit.
    No soldering required.
    If positively relegated in having to replace the whole switch, usually the most irksome situation, is that the switch used 2 rivets to originally mount it. Leaving the innards subject to flying metal debris from those rivets removal.

    How is your situation now ?

    73's de Edd

    Last edited: Sep 10, 2016
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