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Best solder free electrical connection

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by john hamilton, Aug 16, 2010.

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  1. I was thinking to enlarge the holes in the tabs, and use pop rivets.
    Sadly, the battery holder pictured won't take .250 push on connectors,
    I don't think. The metal is chromed, so solder won't stick very well,
    it's also likely steel. There is no really good way to make the
    connection.

    Wire through the hole, twist the wire, and solder the wire to itself
    is about the best answer I can find.

    --
    Christopher A. Young
    Learn more about Jesus
    www.lds.org
    ..




    What about threading tiny self-tapping screws into the holes in the
    rivets that connect the lugs to the contacts?

    Fred
     
  2. Guest

    And a good reason to use 63/37. It is a "fast freeze" solder (the real
    term is Eutectic - meaning it has a very narrow "plastic" range,
    essentially going almost instantly from solid to liquid, and liquid to
    sollid, with no "putty" stage in between.
     
  3. J Burns

    J Burns Guest

    Overheated tips give me a hassle with oxidation. I think the most
    important factor is thermal conductivity to the joint. The flow can be
    slow with a small pencil-pointed iron. A bigger tip with a flat side
    can work much faster.

    I'd clean the iron, tab, and wire, make a good mechanical connection,
    apply rosin flux to the connection and the iron, and turn on the iron.
    When the flux smoked, I'd begin testing the iron by touching solder to
    it. When it melted solder quickly, I'd touch the iron to the
    connection. Almost instantly, the flat side of the tip and the drop of
    molten solder should conduct enough heat to the joint for it to draw
    solder from the iron. I'd have the iron out of there before the plastic
    could soften.

    Dadburnit, the last battery holders I bought had the tabs riveted to the
    battery contacts. They develop resistance from invisible corrosion
    around the rivets. I have to keep spraying with contact cleaner. I
    also have jumper cables that develop resistance from unseen corrosion
    where the wires are crimped.
     
  4. Smitty Two

    Smitty Two Guest

    Go buy a battery holder that has leads already attached. Twist those
    leads to the leads coming from the toy.

    Smitty Two, who owns a soldering company, has taught 50 people to
    solder, has soldered hundreds of thousands of components by hand, and
    knows that while soldering is easy, it can't be taught in two minutes
    with a paragraph.
     
  5. Smitty Two

    Smitty Two Guest

    The OP already said he solders poorly. For $1.50 or so he can buy a damn
    battery holder with wires attached. He can do it before or after he
    melts the one he has trying to solder it.
     
  6. rp

    rp Guest

    My dad taught me to solder back in the early sixties.

    He got a block of wood and hammered a load of those little nails that
    you use to hold hardboard in and told me to join all of them together
    with wire. We had a stick of solder about an eighth of an inch thick
    and a tub of flux and the first one I did was a mess but after about 20
    or so they were neat.

    With those plastic battery boxes I've found you have to have a nice big
    bit in a hot iron and be quick, more than about a second and the
    plastic melts. I put the wire through the hole and wrap it around
    itself to make a mechanically good joint or if it's solid core bend it
    through the hole and nip it up with pliers. Put the tip on the tag and
    the wire and poke solder at the join between the two. You can't do them
    with a little Antex, it transfers heat so slowly that the plastic melts
    before the solder. It's the Weller W50-D for this sort of connection
    :)
     
  7. jeff_wisnia

    jeff_wisnia Guest

    Hey fellas, don't you think we've about saucered and blowed this thread
    by now? <G>

    Jeff (Who's been soldering stuff for about 62 years now.)
     
  8. geoff

    geoff Guest

    Let me quote from the instructions of the hot air / soldering station I
    just purchased

    "Temperature of the soldering tip

    High temperature will decrease the function of the soldering tip. So the
    temperature should be set to the lowest. This soldering tip has good
    quality for recovery and can solder at low temperature. This can protect
    the component sensitive with temperature

    Cleaning

    The tip should be cleaned with sponge periodically. After soldering the
    oxidised and carbonated superabundant soldering material will damage the
    tip. Deviation of soldering and deduction of function of the soldering
    tip will occur. The soldering tip must be dismantled for cleaning every
    week so the soldering tip can keep the function

    After welding,clean the superabundant soldering material"


    so now you know ...
     
  9. geoff

    geoff Guest

    No - just file or otherwise (emery cloth) remove the plating back down
    to the base copper underneath just before soldering

    Simples

    FFS - it's a cheap plastic moulding with tags on it

    you lot are turning this into a major project
     
  10. Grant

    Grant Guest

    I claim only four decades ;) You be there before flux cored solder?

    Wonder when that came out?

    I remember my father wanted to replace the needle and cartridge in
    the record player (over 40 years ago, one of old things that stacked
    several LPs). So he bought the new cartridge, a roll of rosin cored
    solder and a small solid copper iron one heated on the gas stove...

    Worked too! He used to be a TV serviceman, up until the splat off a
    picture tube threw him across a room, a career changing moment.

    Grant.
     
  11. David Taylor

    David Taylor Guest

    I would like some superabundant soldering material, please.
     
  12. Grant

    Grant Guest

    But those cheapie battery holders are difficult to solder, the plating
    doesn't 'wet' easily. So cleaning it up first with emery paper, or
    scratching it up is necessary so it will easily 'wet' and the solder
    job work first time. Experience people know this, but beginners have
    yet to learn which metals and surface conditions are easy to solder,
    and which require more effort.

    Sure, task at hand is easy, but promoting the larger picture might
    help newbie get far more enjoyment from electronics, because they
    learn some basic skills. Soldering is one of those basic skills.

    Grant.
     
  13. Guest

    Technical Chinglish at it's best.
     
  14. Melt lead in a well ventilated area and exhaust fumes to the outside.
    Air movement that is sufficient to carry away the wisp of smoke from an
    extinguished match is generally considered sufficient ventilation. Lead
    melts at 621 degrees (F). When lead is molten, it releases minute
    amounts of vapors at a progressive rate as temperatures are increased.
    Harmful levels of lead vaporization are believed to occur at elevated
    temperatures above 1800 degrees (F). Only lower temperatures between
    700-800 degrees are normally needed to cast lead hobby parts. Most
    melting equipment sold to hobbyists will not raise temperatures much
    above 900 degrees. Minimize vaporization by operating melters at the
    lowest temperature that gives good results.

    Unless you've got your solder pot cranked up well over 800 F I don't
    think you're going to be sucking up any lead vapors.

    Jeff
     
  15. crimp, swage or weld?

    soldering is as easy as it's going to get for something like a battery
    holder.
     
  16. If you are familiar with faston connectors, you can trim the
    terminals with scissors or wire cutters so a connector will
    slip on to them. The connectors are available in many sizes
    with the 1/4" being the most common. I believe The Shack,
    formally Radio Shack carries several sizes. Here's a link
    to a manufacturer that produces many types so you can see
    what I'm referring to:

    http://www.etco.com/category.php?cat=18&div=ep&l=e

    TDD
     
  17. geoff

    geoff Guest

    Excuse me, but is the OP a Septic or English ?

    If he/she/it is English, it's bugger all use pointing them at Septic
    outlets, is it?
     
  18. I'm sorry, I have absolutely no idea what you are writing
    about. Could you find someone to translate it into American?

    TDD
     
  19. Dave

    Dave Guest

    I'm English and I haven't a clue what they are on about either. :)

    Dave
     
  20. Guest

    Not important. If they are tight (and dry) there will be no
    corrosion.
     
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