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Before I throw this X-10 lamp module away...

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by JazzMan, Feb 9, 2006.

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  1. JazzMan

    JazzMan Guest

    A bulb blue-flashed failed in my lamp controlled by a
    standard X-10 lamp module, the result being that now
    the module when turned off only goes to half-brightness,
    both by dimming and by commanding OFF via the remote. I
    don't have money to buy another one, but may have the
    ability to fix this one if it's a known failure mode
    and replacement parts are in my giant bin-O-parts.

    Anyone know enough about these to offer pointers or
    advice?

    JazzMan
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  2. jakdedert

    jakdedert Guest

    Triac....

    Google it.

    jak
     
  3. JazzMan

    JazzMan Guest


    Thanks, I would (given my luck) spent a couple of days
    googling before I stumbled across a repair. Now to find
    a triac.

    JazzMan
    --
    **********************************************************
    Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
    Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
    **********************************************************
    "Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
    supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
    live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
    **********************************************************
     
  4. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest


    You can get one at Radio Shack, if you can't find one there, email me
    and I'll send you one.
     
  5. jakdedert

    jakdedert Guest

    Okay, I've done it for you. (It's been a while since I played actively
    with this stuff...I was curious.):
    From the FAQ for the comp.home.automation newsgroup at
    <http://techsupt.winbatch.com/TS/T000002007F31.html>

    "<Q508. How do I repair a "blown" X10 lamp module?

    X10 lamp modules have a bad habit of dying premature deaths. Most of the
    time, the problem can be traced back to a bad triac. Why the triac is
    the weak link has been debated hotly. It is possible to "resurrect" the
    module by simply replacing the triac. Caution must be stressed here;
    there are a lot of triacs available, but whichever one you use must have
    an isolated tab. The most universally available replacement is from
    Radio Shack, part number 276-1000 [Does this part actually have an
    isolated tab?], or Digi-Key part number L4008L6-ND. In addition to
    having an isolated tab, it also has a higher rating than the original
    one, so will be less likely to fail.

    If you don't know a triac from a mouse trap, you'd better not try to
    replace it."

    jak
     
  6. Mike Berger

    Mike Berger Guest

    You don't use peanut butter on the triac, right?
     
  7. AZ Nomad

    AZ Nomad Guest

    Do you mean bird shit?
     
  8. JazzMan

    JazzMan Guest

    Success!!! I had a dead wall switch module, it quit responding to
    the remote a long time ago. I looked at it and it had a triac
    similar to the one in the lamp module. It was BTA10 400C, and the
    lamp module triac was marked BTA10 600C. It took some finagling
    the leads because the center lead was bent opposite on the wall
    switch compared to the lamp module, but after getting it in it
    worked perfectly. Thanks a bunch, folks!

    JazzMan
    --
    **********************************************************
    Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
    Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
    **********************************************************
    "Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
    supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
    live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
    **********************************************************
     
  9. jakdedert

    jakdedert Guest

    One thing that goes wrong with the WS modules (a couple of things,
    actually) is that the cutoff switch, below the push button, gets tweaked
    out. Either the contacts get dirty or the switch just gets forgotten.

    There's a small gauge wire jumper on the board that sometimes goes
    kablooey as well. I believe it's meant to be a sort of fuse, but I've
    never seen reference to it anywhere. I've brought a couple of those
    back to life by simply replacing it with similar gauge wire.

    jak
     
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