-
Categories
-
Platforms
-
Content
Yes it does.
I am thinking that I may go with the plastic box this this time around with a simple in line on/off switch. Where do you think I should insert it? In line with the positive battery lead?
here is the best explanation I found for the stomp box switch. https://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/MBP_FootswitchWiring.pdf
I am thinking that I may go with the plastic box this this time around with a simple in line on/off switch. Where do you think I should insert it? In line with the positive battery lead?
here is the best explanation I found for the stomp box switch. https://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/MBP_FootswitchWiring.pdf
Yes it does. I need to experiment a bit because the tone, gain and volume, as well as the guitar itself, contribute to different sound textures.
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2011
- Messages
- 13,722
That's the usual position for an on/off switch..
However, have you considered what happens when you turn off the stomp box? I think you usually would have to combine the on/off switch with a bypass switch to route the input signal directly to the output like this:
The dpdt (double pole, double throw) switch has 2 positions:
1 (as shown): 9 V from battery connected to distortion circuit, output of the stomp box connected to output of the distortion circuit.
2)/inverse to shown): 9 V from battery disconnected from distortion circuit, output of stomp box conected to input if stomp box, thus bypassing the distortion circuit.
(nc = not connected, open pin of switch)
Harald
that’s very helpful. Yes, I did consider it and thought I’d just live with it being non functional when off- at least for this stage of my building stompboxes. But your schematic is easy to follow and would solve the problem. Thank you. I will give it a go.
that’s very helpful. Yes, I did consider it and thought I’d just live with it being non functional when off- at least for this stage of my building stompboxes. But your schematic is easy to follow and would solve the problem. Thank you. I will give it a go.
I am at the stage that I am going to put the circuit in a little black plastic project box. I have yet to drill any holes, but I wonder if anyone has any advice on. how to actually place the circuit board in, and make it stay put. Left to my own devices, I'd probably over glue it, and make a bloody mess of it. Any tips? I attached a pic.
Attachments
The dimensions of the box are as follows:
.699 inches in depth
3.6 inches in length
2.07 inches in width
I used a digital calibre and thats why the measurements are so precise . That is the room that is inside the box.
the base of my pots are .24 inches. In other words, that is the portion that will need to reside inside the box.
I have three pots to house
I also have the two guitar jacks that will be on the sides and a mini switch that will be put pin one side or wherever ther is room remaining.
The bottom of the circuit to the tallest component above the board, is .74 inches.So, I may have to bend a capacitor because the height of the box is .699 inches
I may be moving a family of 6 in a three bedroom apartment..lol
If push come to shove, I may be able to glue two boxes together, which will give me double the height. But then, I'd have to find a way to create a battery hatch, as their would be no removable bottom, as there is with the single box.
Also, I have drilled or cut through a hard plastic box. Any tips on tools to use?
Thank-you
.699 inches in depth
3.6 inches in length
2.07 inches in width
I used a digital calibre and thats why the measurements are so precise . That is the room that is inside the box.
the base of my pots are .24 inches. In other words, that is the portion that will need to reside inside the box.
I have three pots to house
I also have the two guitar jacks that will be on the sides and a mini switch that will be put pin one side or wherever ther is room remaining.
The bottom of the circuit to the tallest component above the board, is .74 inches.So, I may have to bend a capacitor because the height of the box is .699 inches
I may be moving a family of 6 in a three bedroom apartment..lol
If push come to shove, I may be able to glue two boxes together, which will give me double the height. But then, I'd have to find a way to create a battery hatch, as their would be no removable bottom, as there is with the single box.
Also, I have drilled or cut through a hard plastic box. Any tips on tools to use?
Thank-you
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2011
- Messages
- 13,722
If the leads are long enough so you don't stress the leads where they come out of the body, then bending is o.k.
Each unshielded audio wire is an antenna that will pickup mains hum and all kinds of other interference.
The metal cases on the pots should be connected to the circuit's 0V to avoid more interference.
Chinese high voltage green film capacitors are old fashioned and are huge. My European (Epcos brand) 1uF/35V film caps are 0.3" high, 0.25" wide, 0.15" thick, 0.2" leads spacing.
The metal cases on the pots should be connected to the circuit's 0V to avoid more interference.
Chinese high voltage green film capacitors are old fashioned and are huge. My European (Epcos brand) 1uF/35V film caps are 0.3" high, 0.25" wide, 0.15" thick, 0.2" leads spacing.
VenomBallistics
- Aug 30, 2018
- 285
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2018
- Messages
- 285
nope ... never .... you can't prove otherwise
VenomBallistics
- Aug 30, 2018
- 285
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2018
- Messages
- 285
https://buildyourownclone.com/
You might want to check out this site. Back when I worked on this stuff, they sold a few obscure parts and something like three kits.
The net is rife with bad schematics, and BYOC was one of the few that put some effort into sorting things out.
It's also one of the few trustworthy places to get things you might need later, like bucket brigade delay lines.
The "Green Pony" looks quite interesting with it's use of a charge pump.
https://www.allparts.com/products/ep-4991-copper-shielding-tape?_pos=3&_sid=e78a31611&_ss=r
Meanwhile, All Parts sells adhesive copper foil. It's commonly used in guitars for shielding.
It'll also do the same in your plastic enclosure should it commit sins it needs to atone for
You might want to check out this site. Back when I worked on this stuff, they sold a few obscure parts and something like three kits.
The net is rife with bad schematics, and BYOC was one of the few that put some effort into sorting things out.
It's also one of the few trustworthy places to get things you might need later, like bucket brigade delay lines.
The "Green Pony" looks quite interesting with it's use of a charge pump.
https://www.allparts.com/products/ep-4991-copper-shielding-tape?_pos=3&_sid=e78a31611&_ss=r
Meanwhile, All Parts sells adhesive copper foil. It's commonly used in guitars for shielding.
It'll also do the same in your plastic enclosure should it commit sins it needs to atone for
Thanks guys! I have that tin foil tape used for venting. That may work on the inside of the plastic cases, and it adheres too.
I don't know about kits. I see there are a lot of them out there. It seems a little too planned for me. In a way, I;'d rather try and fail and learn some tough lessons along the way, than to work with a kit that everything is laid out and planned out. Call me crazy.....
I don't know about kits. I see there are a lot of them out there. It seems a little too planned for me. In a way, I;'d rather try and fail and learn some tough lessons along the way, than to work with a kit that everything is laid out and planned out. Call me crazy.....
VenomBallistics
- Aug 30, 2018
- 285
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2018
- Messages
- 285
BYOC seems to largely agree with your spirit.
Some kits are so you can just knock one off, others are designed around experimentation and exploration.
The Royal Beaver is a good example of this. It takes the various historical Big Muff fuzz effects as well as other related competing circuits and lets you select them via a rotary switch, then you have nine additional knobs besides the usual drive tone and volume to adjust bias, gain and V+ for each transistor stage.
More important than this, are the schematics and obscure parts.
You can explore various approaches to elements applied to pedals from working examples. This is a breath of fresh air from the many erroneous and outright bogus schematics scattered across the web. and after you have decided what you want to build, they are also a solid supplier of the parts you normally cannot find.
Hi guys: Here is a better clip. I used a Fender Squire telecaster guitar. I chose this guitar because it's an entry level guitar. If a distortion pedal can sound good with an entry level guitar, it will sound great with a better guitar.
Have a listen. I am quite pleased with it, and there is a lot of tone and sound flexibility when one fools around with the gain,. volume and tone pots.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W5W76iNrny1dRTNRmm8aTINURhjU9gp5/view?usp=sharing
Have a listen. I am quite pleased with it, and there is a lot of tone and sound flexibility when one fools around with the gain,. volume and tone pots.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W5W76iNrny1dRTNRmm8aTINURhjU9gp5/view?usp=sharing
VenomBallistics
- Aug 30, 2018
- 285
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2018
- Messages
- 285
yeah ... the bane of the recording guitarist.
the average pickup and high Z amp input could be used for intergalactic espionage. it picks up everything. The intro to Satrianis flying in a blue dream was the result of RFI in an LA studio.
Your tone shape observation is characteristic of OpAmp drives ... Gain goes up, low end get's displaced. The Klon Centaur has a low pass filter used to mix dry low frequencies with the overdriven wet feed in a bid to recoup the bass loss. It also uses a charge pump to power it's mixer and buffer stages at higher potential to increase headroom. It's still not perfect, many report the Klon sounds great at low gain and high gain settings, but suffers loss through the points in between. BYOC's green pony has an even better power arrangement and claims to address the klon loss.
The power concept is so delicious, I'll likely use it for the input and output buffer stages in my delay and modulation effects.
I can't explain it technically, but I can from a. guitarists' perspective.
Anytime you use effects pedals (especially O/D or distortion), you get that noise. Most guitarists, including me, handle this as follows:
In a live performance, I use a Boss Noise gate pedal. It goes in line with your pedal chain and strips away the noise. You have parameters you can tweak to get just the right amount of elimination without eroding the effect too much.
When I record, I use noise gate software to do the same thing.
The thing I like about this builds I can make the circuit sound a lot different simply by playing with the Gain, Then and Volume pots, and also changing choice of pickups on the guitar. The guitar also has its tone and volume controls. So, with all these variables, it's easy to get different colors to your sound.
Anytime you use effects pedals (especially O/D or distortion), you get that noise. Most guitarists, including me, handle this as follows:
In a live performance, I use a Boss Noise gate pedal. It goes in line with your pedal chain and strips away the noise. You have parameters you can tweak to get just the right amount of elimination without eroding the effect too much.
When I record, I use noise gate software to do the same thing.
The thing I like about this builds I can make the circuit sound a lot different simply by playing with the Gain, Then and Volume pots, and also changing choice of pickups on the guitar. The guitar also has its tone and volume controls. So, with all these variables, it's easy to get different colors to your sound.
Similar threads
