Back lit Chess Board, Led Question

[Gryd3]

I would encourage you to draw your own diagram with the batteries, switch, and all LEDs.
Post it on here for us to take a look and we can give you the go-ahead.
That will help prevent you from wasting time putting it together if there is a mistake.

 

[Frost]

Once your array of LEDs is wired, you will have a single + and - wire for the LEDs.
You will also have a single + and - wire for the DC adaptor. All you need is to put the switch in between the LED array and DC adaptor.
The switch will interrupt the flow of electricity... so if you take the + from the DC adaptor and connect it to one end of the switch, and the + from the LED array and connect it to the other end of the switch. It is not going to be able to control when power does and does not flow. (The - side of the DC adaptor, and LEDs can directly connect to each other... because the + side has the switch on it)

Nah i understand that but the switch only has 2 posts wouldn't that just complete the connection and not cut them on/off

 

[Gryd3]

Nah i understand that but the switch only has 2 posts wouldn't that just complete the connection and not cut them on/off

There are different kinds of switches.
If the switch has only 2 posts, it is a single pole, single throw.
When 'On' the posts are connected together internally completing your circuit.
When 'Off' the posts are disconnected which breaks your circuit.

If the switch has 3 posts, then the middle post will toggle back of forth from one post to another.
So the 'Off' position could actually complete your circuit if you use the wrong posts.
These switches are double throw switches, as they have a post connected when 'On', and a different post connected when 'Off'.

Then of course, there are switches with 4 or 6 posts... they are two switches in one... so you could control 2 different circuits at the same time.

 

[Frost]

My master piece

 

[Gryd3]

My master pieceView attachment 16624

Your master-piece will never turn off

If you remove the switch, the + and - of the battery will still be connected directly to the LED array.
What you would want to do, is draw the circuit and pretend the switch is not there.
Cut part of the green or yellow wire directly from the battery, and put your switch in the 'break' you just made. The switch will complete the circuit. For this to work the electricity must be forced to go through the switch.
If you need a hand, I'll draw it out, but I'd rather have you pick it up yourself

 

[Frost]

Your master-piece will never turn off

If you remove the switch, the + and - of the battery will still be connected directly to the LED array.
What you would want to do, is draw the circuit and pretend the switch is not there.
Cut part of the green or yellow wire directly from the battery, and put your switch in the 'break' you just made. The switch will complete the circuit. For this to work the electricity must be forced to go through the switch.
If you need a hand, I'll draw it out, but I'd rather have you pick it up yourself

Oh ok i see! How does this look? Thats what i was asking with both pos on one post and both neg on one post that was what i meant earlier.

 

[Gryd3]

What you got now is perfect!

 

[Frost]

What you got now is perfect!

Sweet! Thanks a lot! You have been very helpful and friendly i was expecting this to be another one of those "You dumb ass, get out of here with your restarded ass self" forums but i was clearly wrong.

 

[Frost]

What you got now is perfect!

Oh and is the posotive and negative wires correct or does it matter how far they go as long as they connect.

 

[Gryd3]

Oh and is the posotive and negative wires correct or does it matter how far they go as long as they connect.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'how far they go?'

This is how the strings are setup..

the wires can be as long as you want

 

[Frost]

I'm not sure what you mean by 'how far they go?'

This is how the strings are setup..

the wires can be as long as you want

Never mind im dumb i realized that im a dumbass after i posted that. Also any specific gage wire i need?

 

[Gryd3]

Never mind im dumb i realized that im a dumbass after i posted that. Also any specific gage wire i need?

The current you are using is pretty small.
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Use wire that you can easily work with. Any smaller than 22 be start to be bothersome.

(Remember, your power supply at most is 0.6 Amps.. so pick a wire that can handle more. Always good to have some headroom.)

 

[Scotophor]

For a mere 200 milliamps normal current (or 650 mA maximum fault current), any wire large enough for you to be able to handle it easily should be plenty large enough for the circuit.

 

[Frost]

Alright guys once i get this bitch built expect some pictures

 

[BobK]

We wait with bated breath!

Seriously, though, I would like to see pictures when complete you it.

Bob