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Automated Sliding Door

rbjarema

Dec 2, 2013
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Tell me if I am thinking of this wrong. When I hooked up the battery I could hear a relay clicking. Looking at the diagram I dont believe this should happen since there is no direct power from the battery to the relays. Shouldn't the relay only click when a timer goes off causing the relay to go from NC to NO?
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
Nov 28, 2011
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I can't read the terminal numbers in the photo, but yes, the drawing shows NC, NO, COM from top to bottom on both sides, with the coil along the bottom.

Your pin numbers in your post for the right side are 2, 4, and 5. I hope that's a typo and it's actually 2, 4, 6!

If your soldering is not too good, you should be using some kind of screw connector strip. It will mount onto a panel (e.g. a piece of wood) and will provide connection points for your circuit. You can connect the components directly into it, so they are supported physically. You might be able to do all the wiring directly onto the relay bases instead of using extra connector strips.

It would help me to advise you if you posted some photos of your current setup. I don't really know what all your components look like.

Tell me if I am thinking of this wrong. When I hooked up the battery I could hear a relay clicking. Looking at the diagram I dont believe this should happen since there is no direct power from the battery to the relays. Shouldn't the relay only click when a timer goes off causing the relay to go from NC to NO?
Yes, you're right.
 

rbjarema

Dec 2, 2013
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Dec 2, 2013
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Its not just one relay but both click when the battery is hooked up. I triple checked all the wiring and it is correct. I took one of the timers out of the diagram and hooked it up to the battery. I got my multi meter on the output wires and it is reading around 9V. When I tell the timer to go off the voltage gets higher. This seems to be the issue with the relays going off when the battery is hooked up. Any ideas on how we can remedy this.
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
Nov 28, 2011
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First, post some photos. The files must be smaller than 145 kilobytes, if they're JPG files, or smaller than 95 kilobytes for other image file types. Click Go Advanced and click the paper clip icon on the top row of the toolbar. The upload dialogue box appears. Click Browse and select the file to upload. When all files are selected, click upload and close the dialogue box.

The output of the timer is an isolated relay contact so if nothing is connected to it, it won't have any voltage on it. You should measure it on the resistance range of your multimeter. It should measure open circuit (usually indicated as OL on digital meters) when the timer is OFF (idle), and when it turns ON (active), the contact should measure short (a few ohms or less). You can also use the continuity beeper if your meter has one; it should beep only when the timer output is ON (active).
 

rbjarema

Dec 2, 2013
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Dec 2, 2013
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Sounds good. If I take pictures of it now it will be hard to tell what's going on. It looks like a birds nest. I will clean the wiring up this weekend and try to get everything mounted on to a piece of wood that way it will be easier to trace/see the wires.
 

rbjarema

Dec 2, 2013
23
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
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Instead of cleaning up the wires I decided to try a different configuration and it works. I attached a diagram on how I have it currently set up. I only ran it one cycle and called it good for now. Do you suggest that I still put in the capacitor and the zener diodes before the actuator? What about putting in the diodes between the timer and coil of the relay?
 

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  • ACTUATOR DIAGRAM.jpg.pdf
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KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
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Interesting. You've connected the relay coils straight across the timer outputs. So the timer must provide voltage on its output when it's activated. That's different from the usual arrangement - normally the output is just a relay contact that closes to complete an external circuit. The documentation on the Wildgame web site does not say one way or the other. But if it works, it works!

Yes, you should add the protection components. Measure the polarity of the voltage across the relay coils when the timer is active, and connect D1 and D2 across the coils with their cathodes (stripe end) to the side that is positive when the timer is active.

I also recommend fitting at least C1. D4 and D5 probably won't do much if C1 is present so consider them optional.

Good work!
 
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