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Anybody knows the perfect Press'n Peel usage method?

Discussion in 'General Electronics' started by Chisvasi Sebastian, Sep 2, 2003.

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  1. What is the perfect techniques to use Press'n Peel to PCB?
    My PCB is looking great when i transfer the image from PnP, but after
    i pull it out the acid it looks like i've sandpaper it ... i don't
    know what else to do ... :((

    Thanks ...
  2. Maybe the sandpapered effect is caused by etching? This happens when
    the problem is that i've clean it very good before i started.
    first i've cleaned the PCB with acetone to remove fingerprints, then
    i've put it in ferric chloride for about 1-2 minutes, then i've clean
    it with an dry absorbant paper, and only then i've ducktaped the PnP
    to the PCB.
    Maybe it was the iron temperature ... first i've ironed it at
    "syntetic" mark for about 5 minutes, then for another 3 minutes at
    greater temperature (next mark on the iron dial). Is possible that
    i've lifted the PnP, i don't know exactly ... btw, i'm using White PnP
    because is cheaper then the Blue PnP, i do so because nobody was able
    to tell me what is the difference betwen those two except "the blue
    one is better" why? nobody can tell ... maybe is the price (the blue
    one is 3 times more expensive then the white one).
    Anyway ... i will keep trying 'till I finish my White PnP stock ...
    then i'm going to try another method ... i heard that UV sensitive PCB
    is "the one" ... if is not too expensive ...

    PS i find somewhere something about using spray acetone after, when
    the circuit is imprimed on PCB, it seems that the toner is going to
    stick to the copper better and is going to fill the eventual gap or
    line interruptions ... anybody heard something like that?
  3. Michael

    Michael Guest

    All my experience with PnP has to do with Blue; I have never used
    White. I know that Blue peels off, White is soaked off in water.
    Supposedly Blue allows smaller traces than White (I know Blue does allow
    small traces because I've done them). With Blue, the iron (I use a
    clothes iron) does have to be hot enough (I select "linen") and pressure
    - but not too much - is necessary. It takes some practice!

    In the 1970's I had photographic supplies and did make PC boards using
    high contrast "copy" sheet (5x7) film and spray-on resist. The results
    were very, very good. I went to PnP only after losing my darkroom when
    I moved my household.
  4. Sotris Pdmtr

    Sotris Pdmtr Guest

    Check this :
    Has lot of infos for PnP (Blue)
    I think "Blue" is more resistant on "scracthes", and has better
    "resolution", meaning , doing thinner tracks with it. We going down to
    some mil's with it.
    however I prefer these method than UV exposure, because is good for
    prototypes on the fly, and more cost effective also!!!

    Sotris Pdmtr

    ASPiSYS Ltd.
    P.O.Box 14386
    Athens 11510
    Tel : +30 210 7719 544
    Fax : +30 210 7714 983
  5. Andre

    Andre Guest

    Get this month's EPE , someone in the UK published his preferred method .


  6. JeffM

    JeffM Guest

    Have you set your printer properties for maximum DPI?

    I sent output to an old HP and got half the page printed
    (what did print looked good).
    Played around and figured out that it didn't have much memory
    (tweaked the resolution downwards);
    the whole thing printed then, but transfer results looked poor.
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