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Analog guitar amp with digital meter

Discussion in 'General Electronics Discussion' started by Still buildin, Dec 28, 2018.

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  1. BobK

    BobK

    7,682
    1,688
    Jan 5, 2010
    Okay, it looks like you are on the way to a solution. All you need to do is replace rhe meter you zapped with a resettable one.

    Bob
     
  2. Still buildin

    Still buildin

    14
    4
    Dec 28, 2018
    Thanks Bob, I almost got a tiny smirk out of that one.....your quip comes off a little jaded and worn, but you scored a point and that's really all that matters at the end of the day.

    Good hunting.
     
  3. BobK

    BobK

    7,682
    1,688
    Jan 5, 2010
    Anyone who is not jaded by age 66 has not been paying attention.

    At least this was not as costly as the lesson I learned when I tried to repair the boiler used to heat my house. I was very proud of the plumbing job I did, but, after finishing I forgot to turn the water feed back on. Total loss of the boiler.

    Bob
     
  4. Still buildin

    Still buildin

    14
    4
    Dec 28, 2018
    Shoot, that sucks. I've had a few ugly disasters myself......and I'm only 50 ha.
     
  5. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

    3,105
    1,312
    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir Still buildin . . . . .

    OK I moved back to the very first of your photos with some good flat board shots .

    CONFIRMED . . . that the zig zag path from stake J2 which is your system power ground does route to closest gold pad and is soldered to assure a definite ground to the frontal metal bezel of the display. Then its just being pot luck if any of the 3 other tabs bite into the metal of the 3 other gold pads.

    NEXT you need to take a good look at the J1 power corner of + supply voltage source . .it immediately passes thru a 5.1K resistor and then probably the other 5.1K before the connecting to power the unit.
    Now needless to say, but any one that would take a wire from the JI connector and start poking to connections is a ____ ______ ( fill in the blanks)

    BELOW . . .

    I am providing a slightly newer CURTIS board layout with that extra central stake pin being for a backlighting version.
    Now in this board, J4 reset stake passes thru R2 a 75K resistor . . . .see what I mean about only requiring minute voltages . . .and then the foil passes to the left to a 100K , with that resistors other end at ground potential.
    Then a foil goes goes to T1 gold via to cross over to the other side of the board . . .which I can't see to read.

    HOWEVER we are now interested in YOUR board and in completing its circuitry path now.
    By using your very first photo provided, I can now see that using T1 gold via on YOUR board would NOT validate, since it goes right down to the closest gold pad and takes a zig-zag path to the ground of the C1 22ufd dry tantalum E-cap at the boards extreme right end.

    BUT you need to get a short wire length and solder between J4 stake and nearby R2 pad and then install R2 resistor between its pads.
    That via passes under the center 5.1 k and gets to the large gold via which has a foil path to closest side of R3 . . .being unreadable to me . . .but it ends in at least 3 zeros.
    The other side of the board path of our large gold via . . . . . . . .is going right into the COB.

    I certainly hope that your impatience has not cost you the $56 for another meter.

    NEWER CURTIS BOARD PHOTO . . . .

    [​IMG]


    73's de Edd . . . . .
    . . . . . . . . . . .


    * * * * * Important Eco-Friendly-Green Message * * * * *
    Save a tree . . . . conserve your toilet paper . . . . use both sides !
     
    Richard9025 likes this.
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