D
David L
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
I'm a newbie looking for an alarm system. I really know little about
alarm systems and am coming here in the hopes that I can learn enough to
ensure that I get the right system.
I live on Long Island and am looking for a professionally installed
system.
So far, I've contacted both General Security
(http://www.gensecurity.com)(I've been a happy oil customer of General
Utilities for a long time now) and Slomins (http://www.slomins.com).
Both are very large/well known installers/monitors here on Long Island.
I need to double check some things with General, but Slomins offered a
free fully hardwired system that includes a panel, keypad, siren, 1
motion detector, 1 smoke alarm, 3 door alarms and professional
installation. Window breaks were $125/window and I probably need around
10. A 2nd smoke alarm is another $150. 5 year CS contact at $25.95/mo.
The will connect the system to a VoIP service for free (if I wanted to
go that route).
Now, some questions.
1) Wired or Wireless? Forgetting about price, is fully wired a superior
solution?
2) I have no problem letting them make their money back on the install
over the life of the original contract, but I see there are many places
to get CS much cheaper (i.e. nextalarm.com). What questions do I need
to ask upfront to ensure that once my initial contract is up that I can
take my alarm system, without additional costs, to another CS? Should I
have the contract noted that they'll provide me with codes (installer
code? user code? what codes do I ask for?) upon completion of the
contract? How do I know that the equipment they'll provide is not
propriatary and will work with another CS without some sort of major
upgrade?
3) Where do I really need glass breaks? Cost is certainly a factor, so
I don't want glass breaks where I don't really need them. The house is
just off the street and I have nearby neighbors on all sides. The front
of the house has a clear view to the street (and to the neighbors across
the street). I have all new Anderson casement windows. I figure the
windows in the back that are 8 feet or less off the ground are definite.
What about windows near the ground right in the front of the house? Is
it necessary to glass break those? Would it be almost a total waste to
get glass breaks on windows that are 15 feet off the ground in the front
of the house? Are glass breaks the right item for Anderson casements?
3a) I'm a little confused as how the Slomin's rep counted the windows.
For example, I have 2 windows right next to each other. IIRC, when the
window people put it in, it's one big piece with 2 windows that open out
from each other. The Slomins rep counted that as one window as far as
glass breaks would be concerned. But there are 2 window panes, so I
don't understand how both panes are protected. I asked a few times and
she assured me it counted as one. But, then in another room, I have a
four panel casement (one piece) and it counted as 2. Can anyone explain
that?
4) Any other suggestions on additional items and position placement
(i.e. 2nd motion detector)? The house is a hi-ranch with an entrance
with stairs leading up to the bedrooms, kitchen and living room and
stairs leading down to the den.
5) My main phone is on a VoIP service now through the cable company. I
do have a 2nd line POTS (that I'm not sure if I'm keeping long term).
If the installer says they can get it to work on VoIP, is there any
reason not to? I also figure that if someone does try to cut a cable
out back, they might only figure to cut the phone line and not realize I
might be using the cable line for phone service. Also, Verizon is
wiring this area fast and there's a chance I might wind up with phone
service over their fiber eventually, I might not have a POTS line then.
6)Protectamerica.com looks really cheap. What's the gimmick/catch with
them? Crappy propriatary wireless alarm system?
Well, I know I've asked a lot here. Hopefully, someone could take the
time out to respond. Thanks in advance to all who do.
David
alarm systems and am coming here in the hopes that I can learn enough to
ensure that I get the right system.
I live on Long Island and am looking for a professionally installed
system.
So far, I've contacted both General Security
(http://www.gensecurity.com)(I've been a happy oil customer of General
Utilities for a long time now) and Slomins (http://www.slomins.com).
Both are very large/well known installers/monitors here on Long Island.
I need to double check some things with General, but Slomins offered a
free fully hardwired system that includes a panel, keypad, siren, 1
motion detector, 1 smoke alarm, 3 door alarms and professional
installation. Window breaks were $125/window and I probably need around
10. A 2nd smoke alarm is another $150. 5 year CS contact at $25.95/mo.
The will connect the system to a VoIP service for free (if I wanted to
go that route).
Now, some questions.
1) Wired or Wireless? Forgetting about price, is fully wired a superior
solution?
2) I have no problem letting them make their money back on the install
over the life of the original contract, but I see there are many places
to get CS much cheaper (i.e. nextalarm.com). What questions do I need
to ask upfront to ensure that once my initial contract is up that I can
take my alarm system, without additional costs, to another CS? Should I
have the contract noted that they'll provide me with codes (installer
code? user code? what codes do I ask for?) upon completion of the
contract? How do I know that the equipment they'll provide is not
propriatary and will work with another CS without some sort of major
upgrade?
3) Where do I really need glass breaks? Cost is certainly a factor, so
I don't want glass breaks where I don't really need them. The house is
just off the street and I have nearby neighbors on all sides. The front
of the house has a clear view to the street (and to the neighbors across
the street). I have all new Anderson casement windows. I figure the
windows in the back that are 8 feet or less off the ground are definite.
What about windows near the ground right in the front of the house? Is
it necessary to glass break those? Would it be almost a total waste to
get glass breaks on windows that are 15 feet off the ground in the front
of the house? Are glass breaks the right item for Anderson casements?
3a) I'm a little confused as how the Slomin's rep counted the windows.
For example, I have 2 windows right next to each other. IIRC, when the
window people put it in, it's one big piece with 2 windows that open out
from each other. The Slomins rep counted that as one window as far as
glass breaks would be concerned. But there are 2 window panes, so I
don't understand how both panes are protected. I asked a few times and
she assured me it counted as one. But, then in another room, I have a
four panel casement (one piece) and it counted as 2. Can anyone explain
that?
4) Any other suggestions on additional items and position placement
(i.e. 2nd motion detector)? The house is a hi-ranch with an entrance
with stairs leading up to the bedrooms, kitchen and living room and
stairs leading down to the den.
5) My main phone is on a VoIP service now through the cable company. I
do have a 2nd line POTS (that I'm not sure if I'm keeping long term).
If the installer says they can get it to work on VoIP, is there any
reason not to? I also figure that if someone does try to cut a cable
out back, they might only figure to cut the phone line and not realize I
might be using the cable line for phone service. Also, Verizon is
wiring this area fast and there's a chance I might wind up with phone
service over their fiber eventually, I might not have a POTS line then.
6)Protectamerica.com looks really cheap. What's the gimmick/catch with
them? Crappy propriatary wireless alarm system?
Well, I know I've asked a lot here. Hopefully, someone could take the
time out to respond. Thanks in advance to all who do.
David
