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Air Conditioner Problem

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by techforce, Aug 7, 2003.

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  1. techforce

    techforce Guest

    I know this is Technicly a non-Electronic type appliance, but perhaps
    someone can provide insight on this Problem with a Window AC unit..


    This is an older Sears Coldspot, probably 5000 BTU. When 1st put on, it will
    blow cool Air ok, but after a While you can hear the cooling grille
    Disconnect Electrically, probably from the Sensor mounted to it , which goes
    to the Thermostat Dial on the Front panel.

    Then, Depending on I think how much Water has accumulated inside the Unit,
    it may or may not re-engage the Cooling Grille. It seems on hotter days it
    tries to turn on the Cooling grille but you can tell its drawing ALOT of
    Wall Current (the lights dim) and you can hear a breaker in the AC
    Pop....the Fan Continues to blow whatever cool air is remaining ok....but
    after a short time it will try to re-engage the Cooling grille. Sometimes it
    will kick in ok , sometimes you just hear the breaker pop out again and
    again after repeated attempts.

    Last night I re-positioned the wire type Sensor mounted on the cooling
    grille, and It blew cool Air Ok, with no problems. I just moved the wire
    away from being embedded in the grille so that just the Tip on the Block is
    touching the Grille.

    This morning, it seems we have alot of Condensation & Water dripping inside,
    and the problem came back. I tilted the Unit to better drain the water, and
    it seemed to help. Am I on the Right path as far as the Water Build up goes?
     
  2. Jerry G.

    Jerry G. Guest

    It is very normal to have water build-up. The machine is extracting
    moisture from the air passing through the evaporator. The machine must
    be mounted at an angle to allow the water to spill back to the outside
    section where the condenser is. There should be some drain holes for
    the water.

    Many machines also use this water as part of the system for cooling the
    condenser section. There are supposed to be overflow drain holes, or
    some way for the excess water to drain off.

    You should consult the technical manual for your machine, or enquire to
    their service department about where the thermostat sensor should be
    positioned on your model. This should be correct in order for the
    machine to perform properly.

    At least once a year, or every two years, a window unit should be
    properly checked and properly cleaned with high pressure steam
    equipment. Then it should be tested for performance and reliability,
    and any worn parts changed. This will keep the machine in top running
    condition, and work efficiently so there is no wasted use of power for
    its operation.

    I realize that air conditioners are not very expensive these days, but
    proper maintenance will effectively make it more efficient.

    --

    Greetings,

    Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
    ==============================================
    WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
    Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
    Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
    ==============================================
    I know this is Technicly a non-Electronic type appliance, but perhaps
    someone can provide insight on this Problem with a Window AC unit..


    This is an older Sears Coldspot, probably 5000 BTU. When 1st put on, it
    will
    blow cool Air ok, but after a While you can hear the cooling grille
    Disconnect Electrically, probably from the Sensor mounted to it , which
    goes
    to the Thermostat Dial on the Front panel.

    Then, Depending on I think how much Water has accumulated inside the
    Unit,
    it may or may not re-engage the Cooling Grille. It seems on hotter days
    it
    tries to turn on the Cooling grille but you can tell its drawing ALOT of
    Wall Current (the lights dim) and you can hear a breaker in the AC
    Pop....the Fan Continues to blow whatever cool air is remaining
    ok....but
    after a short time it will try to re-engage the Cooling grille.
    Sometimes it
    will kick in ok , sometimes you just hear the breaker pop out again and
    again after repeated attempts.

    Last night I re-positioned the wire type Sensor mounted on the cooling
    grille, and It blew cool Air Ok, with no problems. I just moved the wire
    away from being embedded in the grille so that just the Tip on the Block
    is
    touching the Grille.

    This morning, it seems we have alot of Condensation & Water dripping
    inside,
    and the problem came back. I tilted the Unit to better drain the water,
    and
    it seemed to help. Am I on the Right path as far as the Water Build up
    goes?
     
  3. Come on Jerry, this is a window A/C. At most it has a manual to tell the
    user how to turn it on and off. The model is probably 20 years old and
    the chance of finding exact service info is nill.

    The location of the sensor is important, but the problem he is describing
    sounds like the compressor is hard-start once it shuts off.

    If the compressor shuts off and then immediately tries to restart, it will
    fail and pop the overload protector as described. This is normal behavior
    but shouldn't happen unless someone moves the thermostat to a colder setting
    just after the compressor shuts off. After a couple of minutes once the
    pressure equalizes, it should restart fine though.
    Wishful thinking and while this does affect the efficiency, the basic
    mechanical operation should be reliable without frequency maintenance.
    We all make recommendations that are unrealistic. :)

    --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
    Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
    +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
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    Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
    contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.
     
  4. Andy Cuffe

    Andy Cuffe Guest

    I've seen window A/Cs that wouldn't keep the compressor running for more
    than a few min at a time because the back of the condenser clogged. A
    shop vac was good enough to remove the coating of dirt that was clogging
    it. The only hard part is getting to the back of the condenser.
     
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