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Timely because I decided to rebuild from scratch, so I will get a proper one. Will look on amazon. I hope I find the right one this time.You bought a pot that is labelled POT LIN. Lin means linear. It can be used but it will be difficult to adjust since a volume control is usually a LOGarithmic one.
Thank you. I use the method you described, in that I have a highlighter that I colour all the connections I make with. The issue for me is not whether I have made a connection or left one out; it’s whether I have correctly interpreted how things connect to each other. That’s why I am telling like a step by step story, so that someone can easily say- hold on, you connected that wrongly.Following such a verbal description is difficult.
Here's how I proceed when breadboarding:
This is what this wouldlook like:
- When you breadboard a circuit, make sure to have a hardcopy of the schematic on paper ready. And colored markers..
- With every connection you make, mark this one connection on the hardcopy (e.g. using a colored pencil). You may also want to number the connections sequentially, just in case. This latter step is not required.
- Once you think you are finished having made all connections, the hardcopy shall show no unmarked connection. If it does, you forgot to make this one.
- If during making connections you come across a connection that is already marked on the hardcopy, you have made an error. Check whether the supposedly existing connection is truly present. If so, the connection you are currently working on is wrong. If the marked connection is not present in the circuit, you obviously goofed when making the first mark. You then have to trace back your work (here's where the numbering during step 1 comes in handy) and identify the error.
View attachment 48712
So far, so good.
I also usually start by making the Vcc and GND connections. Why? Because these have the most connections going to different components. It is (my personal opinion) easier to make these connections while the breadboard is not yet a mess of other wires.
and2. Connected one end of that resistor to C23
Which ones? As I marked in the schematic hopefully the same one...5. One leg of C23 ( 470 nF Capacitor) has been connected to Pin 3 of the Op Amp socket (non-inverting input)
Great. ThanksI think Bertus was just indicating the polarity in case you had polarised capacitors that cared about such things.
C3 is in the signal path, so does not need to be electrolytic, if you have film at 1uF.
Yes. That is and was clear. But I wanted to know whether it had to be a polarized one. Seems it doesn’t.Hello,
@Nanren888 , I indeed indicated that if the capacitors are polarized, where the + should be:
View attachment 48725
@SparkyCal , Did you read the comment on the picture?
I have put a red marking around it now.
Bertus
ok...so I will connect it as shown in the original diagram...connected backwards. i hope you were not joking. Being. a newbie, I can't tellNon-polarized film capacitors are used for coupling signals in low distortion audio circuits.
But since you want distortion in this circuit then a polarized electrolytic capacitor connected backwards will make additional awesome distortion.