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40 AWG magnet wire

Discussion in 'Misc Electronics' started by Jim Parson, Apr 7, 2004.

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  1. Jim Parson

    Jim Parson Guest

    I'm trying to solder some twisted pair leads from several coils to 38
    AWG coax for an MEG experiment. The trouble I'm running into is that I
    can't find anything to remove the insulation from the 40 AWG magnet
    wire. Any suggestions on what would remove the insulation so the wires
    can be tinned?

    Regards,
    Jim
     
  2. The Al Bundy

    The Al Bundy Guest

    What you can try is to head the end of the wire with a soldering iron and
    some tin. The insulation can be 'burned' off like that. Other way is to burn
    it off with some fire, and scrap/sand the remains of burned insulation away
    so only copper stays.

    Al
     
  3. Easier said than done. That wire is so fine that soldering it can
    dissolve the copper into the solder if you don't do it quick, and then
    you've got an end that's gone and an open.

    "Scrap/sand" (sic) can result in the same thing: a broken wire. Stuff
    is too fine. Just wrap the wire around a heavier stud made of 24 gauge,
    and then solder both, usually the wires will solder okay if the flux is
    decent.
     
  4. Try buring off the insulation with a match. The gently scrape it off
    what is left with some fine abrasive. Trim the exposed length you
    want, and now this sould work for you.

    Jerry G.
     
  5. Brian Howie

    Brian Howie Guest

    I vaguely remember a tip to heat it in a flame to burn the insulation
    and then quickly dowse it in alchohol to stop it oxidising.

    Do a google on soldering Litz wire.

    Brian
     
  6. jtech

    jtech Guest

    Try using paint thinner to dip the wire in and let it dissolve the enamel
    coating from the wire. Then clean it well with alcohol and use flux on it
    to solder.
     
  7. Jim Parson

    Jim Parson Guest

    Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried
    burning off the insulation but that left a residue that was equally hard
    to remove. After some practice I've found that scraping (gingerly) the
    end of the wire with a scalpel held orthogonal to the wire works well. I
    also got an e-mail from someone internal to my organization suggesting
    that melting a small piece of aspirin with a soldering iron and then
    dipping the wire into the molten goo works well for almost all types of
    insulation. Haven't tried that technique yet.

    Regards,
    Jim
     
  8. Cougercat

    Cougercat Guest

    Ji Jim,

    Depending on the type of insulation on the wire, We use to just touch the
    #40 wire to the tip of the iron and apply solder as if it were un-insulated
    wire. The insulation would then burn off and the wire would then tin
    nicely.

    --jj
     
  9. JeffM

    JeffM Guest

    someone [in] my organization suggesting
    The active ingredient in aspirin is an organic acid (acetylsalicylic acid).
    Generally, acid fluxes are frowned on in electrical work
    because, if not properly cleaned/neutralized, they can corrode the wire.
    The smaller the wire, the greater the threat.
     
  10. 1. An especially hot soldering iron, such as a 40 watt one or one of
    those soldering guns.

    2. Gently scrape off the varnish with a single edge razor blade, "exacto"
    blade or the like. I have gotten away with this with wire as thin as 42.

    - Don Klipstein ()
     
  11. Jim Parson

    Jim Parson Guest

    The #40 wire is covered with Kapton insulation, that's why most of the
    suggestions for removing the insulation won't work. Scraping seems to
    work fine although it's tedious. Thanks for all the responses.

    Jim
     
  12. jamiebuturff

    jamiebuturff

    1
    0
    Oct 4, 2010
    Soldering Aluminum

    Soldering of aluminum is possible, but there are a number of critical areas that need tight control. Tenacious aluminum oxide makes most attempts to solder using conventional methods difficult. Flux must be used because of the rapid formation of an aluminum oxide layer, which is difficult to remove and prevents the solder from wetting the aluminum. The reason aluminum oxide is more difficult to remove compared to copper is because of its very high melting point of 2030°C, compared to the 660°C of pure aluminum. Another reason the aluminum oxide is difficult to remove is its high corrosion resistance value. Therefore, more aggressive fluxes are often required, such as an organic amine-based flux (up to 285°C), or inorganic fluxes (e.g. sodium hydroxide up to 400°C). An ultrasonic soldering bath may also be used to crack the oxide layer and wet the aluminum without the use of flux.
     
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