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12V toaster

Discussion in 'Hobby Electronics' started by Michael C, Dec 26, 2008.

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  1. Michael C

    Michael C Guest

    I had this silly idea to rewire a toaster to run on 12V. If I make the wire
    runs inside 20 times shorter then it should work but obviously I can't
    solder so how would I make joins? I was thinking of running the +ve at one
    end of the toaster and the negative at the other and just joining the
    heating wire between them (should be about the right length). Or can I just
    get different resistance heating wire?

  2. Michael C

    Michael C Guest

    I suggest you get a clue and read my post again. I don't quite get what you
    don't understand. Do you think I'm suggesting having a single wire 20 times
    shorter? Or are you thinking the toaster is already designed for 12V? What I
    am suggesting is that I could rewire the toaster so that each run of heating
    wire is 20 times shorter (240/12 = 20) but obviously there would be more
    runs of wire.

  3. Franc Zabkar

    Franc Zabkar Guest

    My toaster is rated at 750W, 240V. That's a current draw of about 3A.
    A 12V 750W toaster would draw about 60 amps.

    Assuming you can provide a cable with conductors of sufficient
    cross-section (eg a car battery cable), then you would need to chop up
    the heating element into 20 equal lengths and wire them in parallel.

    All joins would need to be crimps, otherwise the heat would probably
    melt the solder.

    Of course this was just a mental exercise, wasn't it? ;-)

    - Franc Zabkar
  4. Michael C

    Michael C Guest

    Yep, will need some pretty reasonable wiring, I guess the cigarette lighter
    socket is out of the question :) The plus side is that a toaster usually
    runs for only 2 minutes so the 80Ah battery I have should cope ok.
    That's probably going to be the hard part, or at least the part I haven't
    worked out as yet.
    Actually I'm fairly heavily invested in this project already, to the tune of
    $9.95. :)

  5. You said it, it is indeed quite a silly idea.

    Get a light weight gas stove and toaster adapter and spend your efforts on a
    more worthwhile project.

  6. F Murtz

    F Murtz Guest

    the OP is lucky phil has not started on him
  7. Phil Allison

    Phil Allison Guest

    "F Murtz"

    ** Fat chance of that ...

    ... Phil
  8. atec77

    atec77 Guest

    Very true , if you did it would require a clue
    and you don't
    Still smoking other blokes bit philthy ?
  9. A quote from Toasters'r'us?
  10. Michael C

    Michael C Guest

    That's true but that's kind of the point. When we go away everyone's keen to
    show off their gadgets. I doubt anyone is going to have a 65 amp toaster.
    Yeah, that's just not the same as a popup toaster. :)

  11. Michael C

    Michael C Guest

  12. Mike

    Mike Guest

    Much more romantic to light a small fire and use a long fork,
    that way the money saved could go for high school physics lessons
    or to add to your homes fire insurance ;-)


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  13. kreed

    kreed Guest

    Take a look at the original toaster and see how they make the joins.
    As I vaguely remember, they were just done with a bolt on the back of
    the AC inlet socket
    Some type of compression fitting (high temperature) will no doubt be
    Spot welding of some type MAY also be possible depending on the wire
    (s) used.

    You will also need very thick wire back to the power source, and the
    bars taking the power to the resistance wire will need to be solid

    The best way to do what you want is to buy an inverter, or maybe a UPS
    (if cheaper) and modify to connect to the car battery.
    The time it takes do do a couple of pieces of toast shouldn't be a
    problem for a car battery in good order, and no trouble if you leave
    the engine running.

    (I assume you will be using this "on the road", otherwise you would
    use bottled gas or a generator if in a residence/camping/shack etc ?

    Another advantage of inversion is that you can run other mains
    appliances while "on the road"
  14. Jeßus

    Jeßus Guest

    Thats what you wrote.
  15. Jeßus

    Jeßus Guest

    I don't doubt that for a second, Phallis.
  16. Michael C

    Michael C Guest

    Um, no I didn't (notice the plural when I said runs). I've gotta admit it's
    a bit vague what I wrote but I was assuming the reader wasn't silly.

  17. sfairall


    Nov 3, 2009
    Hi Michael I know this was a while back but wondered if you got anywhere. Yes its a silly idea but so what that makes it more interesting.

    If it were me I would scrap the existing elements and wind new ones. Any high temp wire for kiln use should do the job.

    Wouldnt consider crimping myself as this would probably stress the element wire leading to premature failure. Spot welding would be what I would look at.

    One last thing. Cant say I'm sure on this but I think the power rating you should look for should be a lot less than 750W. Seem to remember that DC heating is much more efficient than AC and at the end of the day you only need the elements to glow orange so 60A seems way to high to me.

    Keep having those silly ideas :)
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