Generac 7500

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by ellombris@yahoo.com, Dec 1, 2006.

  1. Guest

    I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.
     
    , Dec 1, 2006
    #1
    1. Advertising

  2. <> wrote in message
    news:...

    > I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    > stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    > repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    > most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    > installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    > the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.


    1 The new regulator is faulty.
    2 You installed it improperly.
    3. Something else is wrong with it.
     
    Homer J Simpson, Dec 1, 2006
    #2
    1. Advertising

  3. M Berger Guest

    Are you sure your engine is up to speed? Check the throttle
    and governor first.

    wrote:
    > I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    > stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    > repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    > most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    > installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    > the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.
    >
     
    M Berger, Dec 1, 2006
    #3
  4. In article <>,
    wrote:

    > I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    > stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    > repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    > most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    > installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    > the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.


    Ellombris-


    I have downloaded some Generac manuals from
    http://www.generac-portables.com including a couple 5500 watt units
    (1314-0 and 9885-3). Both of these use the 83970, called a "System
    Control Board".

    The 83970 has a trim pot that sets voltage. Some models have the board
    mounted with the trim pot next to a rubber plug on the left side of the
    connector panel. If your model has this board, it might easily be
    misadjusted. Try adjusting it for an initial value of 124 Volts output
    with no load. A small adjustment can make a large difference in output!

    There is also an 84132, called a "Power Regulator Board" on the diagram
    and "Assembly, Drive Module, Power Regulator" on the parts list. This
    module controls current to the rotating field. It has no adjustment
    itself, but is driven by the System Control Board. Was that the module
    you replaced?

    If you study the problem further and still can't solve it, check out the
    "Generators and Motors" forum at
    http://www.smokstak.com.

    Fred
     
    Fred McKenzie, Dec 2, 2006
    #4
  5. Guest

    Fred McKenzie wrote:
    > In article <>,
    > wrote:
    >
    > > I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    > > stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    > > repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    > > most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    > > installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    > > the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.

    >
    > Ellombris-
    >
    >
    > I have downloaded some Generac manuals from
    > http://www.generac-portables.com including a couple 5500 watt units
    > (1314-0 and 9885-3). Both of these use the 83970, called a "System
    > Control Board".
    >
    > The 83970 has a trim pot that sets voltage. Some models have the board
    > mounted with the trim pot next to a rubber plug on the left side of the
    > connector panel. If your model has this board, it might easily be
    > misadjusted. Try adjusting it for an initial value of 124 Volts output
    > with no load. A small adjustment can make a large difference in output!
    >
    > There is also an 84132, called a "Power Regulator Board" on the diagram
    > and "Assembly, Drive Module, Power Regulator" on the parts list. This
    > module controls current to the rotating field. It has no adjustment
    > itself, but is driven by the System Control Board. Was that the module
    > you replaced?
    >
    > If you study the problem further and still can't solve it, check out the
    > "Generators and Motors" forum at
    > http://www.smokstak.com.
    >
    > Fred


    The unit I have is a 7500 not the 5500, and I do have a parts list and
    schematic for this generator. Thank you for your advice. I spoke to a
    tech for the local company that works on larger units and he told me,
    the 84132 has an adjustment screw on it. That is what I'll be trying
    next. My kid works nights so I won't be running the generator 'till
    Sunday, his day off.
    Thank you you for your help, if this works I'll post that The problem
    is solved, if not I'll be begging for help again and will check out the
    websute you suggested.
     
    , Dec 2, 2006
    #5
  6. In article <>,
    wrote:

    > The unit I have is a 7500 not the 5500, and I do have a parts list and
    > schematic for this generator. Thank you for your advice. I spoke to a
    > tech for the local company that works on larger units and he told me,
    > the 84132 has an adjustment screw on it.


    Ellombris-

    My mistake. Somehow I read 7500 and thought 5500 when looking at my
    collection of downloaded manuals!

    Other Generac generators use the same set of boards. If yours has the
    84132 module (located in the end bell of the generator, connected to the
    brushes), it most likely also uses the 83970 module (located inside the
    connector panel assembly). They work together to regulate voltage.

    I have a set of manuals (Clymer "Small AC Generator Service Manual",
    volumes 1 and 2). Volume 2 covers Generac fairly thoroughly. One
    section leaves me with the impression that the 83970/84132 module pair
    is used for all models that have the idle control circuit, from 3500 to
    7500 Watts.

    Fred
     
    Fred McKenzie, Dec 3, 2006
    #6
  7. Ken Weitzel Guest

    wrote:
    > Fred McKenzie wrote:
    >> In article <>,
    >> wrote:
    >>
    >>> I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    >>> stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    >>> repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    >>> most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    >>> installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    >>> the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.

    >> Ellombris-
    >>
    >>
    >> I have downloaded some Generac manuals from
    >> http://www.generac-portables.com including a couple 5500 watt units
    >> (1314-0 and 9885-3). Both of these use the 83970, called a "System
    >> Control Board".
    >>
    >> The 83970 has a trim pot that sets voltage. Some models have the board
    >> mounted with the trim pot next to a rubber plug on the left side of the
    >> connector panel. If your model has this board, it might easily be
    >> misadjusted. Try adjusting it for an initial value of 124 Volts output
    >> with no load. A small adjustment can make a large difference in output!
    >>
    >> There is also an 84132, called a "Power Regulator Board" on the diagram
    >> and "Assembly, Drive Module, Power Regulator" on the parts list. This
    >> module controls current to the rotating field. It has no adjustment
    >> itself, but is driven by the System Control Board. Was that the module
    >> you replaced?
    >>
    >> If you study the problem further and still can't solve it, check out the
    >> "Generators and Motors" forum at
    >> http://www.smokstak.com.
    >>
    >> Fred

    >
    > The unit I have is a 7500 not the 5500, and I do have a parts list and
    > schematic for this generator. Thank you for your advice. I spoke to a
    > tech for the local company that works on larger units and he told me,
    > the 84132 has an adjustment screw on it. That is what I'll be trying
    > next. My kid works nights so I won't be running the generator 'till
    > Sunday, his day off.
    > Thank you you for your help, if this works I'll post that The problem
    > is solved, if not I'll be begging for help again and will check out the
    > websute you suggested.


    Hi...

    Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...

    Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    might not be a coincidence...

    It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    regulator, is it? :)

    Take care.

    Ken
     
    Ken Weitzel, Dec 3, 2006
    #7
  8. Guest

    Ken Weitzel wrote:
    > wrote:
    > > Fred McKenzie wrote:
    > >> In article <>,
    > >> wrote:
    > >>
    > >>> I bought this generator a few weeks ago, used. It worked fine, but
    > >>> stopped putting out any power. I contacted repair people, the local
    > >>> repair facility only works on bigger units, but the man said it was
    > >>> most likely the voltage regulator. Got the regulator on line and
    > >>> installed it, I get power now. The 120v recepticles put out 50 v. and
    > >>> the 220 put out approx. 120v. Any ideas, suggestions, referals? Thanks.
    > >> Ellombris-
    > >>
    > >>
    > >> I have downloaded some Generac manuals from
    > >> http://www.generac-portables.com including a couple 5500 watt units
    > >> (1314-0 and 9885-3). Both of these use the 83970, called a "System
    > >> Control Board".
    > >>
    > >> The 83970 has a trim pot that sets voltage. Some models have the board
    > >> mounted with the trim pot next to a rubber plug on the left side of the
    > >> connector panel. If your model has this board, it might easily be
    > >> misadjusted. Try adjusting it for an initial value of 124 Volts output
    > >> with no load. A small adjustment can make a large difference in output!
    > >>
    > >> There is also an 84132, called a "Power Regulator Board" on the diagram
    > >> and "Assembly, Drive Module, Power Regulator" on the parts list. This
    > >> module controls current to the rotating field. It has no adjustment
    > >> itself, but is driven by the System Control Board. Was that the module
    > >> you replaced?
    > >>
    > >> If you study the problem further and still can't solve it, check out the
    > >> "Generators and Motors" forum at
    > >> http://www.smokstak.com.
    > >>
    > >> Fred

    > >
    > > The unit I have is a 7500 not the 5500, and I do have a parts list and
    > > schematic for this generator. Thank you for your advice. I spoke to a
    > > tech for the local company that works on larger units and he told me,
    > > the 84132 has an adjustment screw on it. That is what I'll be trying
    > > next. My kid works nights so I won't be running the generator 'till
    > > Sunday, his day off.
    > > Thank you you for your help, if this works I'll post that The problem
    > > is solved, if not I'll be begging for help again and will check out the
    > > websute you suggested.

    >
    > Hi...
    >
    > Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...
    >
    > Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    > even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    > might not be a coincidence...
    >
    > It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    > regulator, is it? :)
    >
    > Take care.
    >
    > Ken


    OK ! I'm in the US and this unit worked when I bought it used, I was
    wrong about the voltage regulator. I have the used one I replaced and
    the screw is not to adjust the voltage, it's to secure the heatsink to
    a component on the board. I looked on the side of the output panel and
    found the adjustment on the 83970 and adjusted it. The most voltage I
    get out of the 120 0ut is 68v and I adjusted the trim to give me 120
    out of the 220 receptacle. That gives me 60v out of the 120 outlets.
    This unit uses a rotor and a stator, so I can't see how it would have
    fields. The original diagnostic by a friend who is an electrical
    contractor was that one of the fields might be bad, therefore the 1/2
    power. I read something about flashing the fields, but don't think this
    applies to me. I was told by the local tech that repacement rotors and
    stators are usually 2 to 3 hundred bucks, before the labor costs. It
    would be nice to find a unit with a blown engine, buy it and swap out
    the generator. Any more advice is welcome, and thanks to all.
     
    , Dec 3, 2006
    #8
  9. In article <>,
    wrote:

    > OK ! I'm in the US and this unit worked when I bought it used, I was
    > wrong about the voltage regulator. I have the used one I replaced and
    > the screw is not to adjust the voltage, it's to secure the heatsink to
    > a component on the board. I looked on the side of the output panel and
    > found the adjustment on the 83970 and adjusted it. The most voltage I
    > get out of the 120 0ut is 68v and I adjusted the trim to give me 120
    > out of the 220 receptacle. That gives me 60v out of the 120 outlets.
    > This unit uses a rotor and a stator, so I can't see how it would have
    > fields. The original diagnostic by a friend who is an electrical
    > contractor was that one of the fields might be bad, therefore the 1/2
    > power. I read something about flashing the fields, but don't think this
    > applies to me. I was told by the local tech that repacement rotors and
    > stators are usually 2 to 3 hundred bucks, before the labor costs. It
    > would be nice to find a unit with a blown engine, buy it and swap out
    > the generator. Any more advice is welcome, and thanks to all.


    Ellombris-

    If you needed to flash the field, there would be NO output, so don't
    worry about doing that.

    Have you inspected the brushes to see if they might be worn down or have
    a frayed wire that might be touching the frame?

    A shorted battery charger rectifier diode might cause low output, but
    probably wouldn't zap the 84132 module.

    Some 7500 Watt Generac models had winding resistances in Ohms as
    follows, per the Clymer volume 2 manual:

    Rotor 7.6-9.1
    Main AC Power .20-.25/.20-.25
    Excitation(Dpe) 1.56-1.91
    DC Battery Charger Winding .05-.09/.06-.11

    The Excitation (Dpe) winding supplies AC voltage to the 84132 module,
    which rectifies it and supplies current to the field via the brushes.

    If you have time, visit http://www.smokstak.com. There is a search
    function there you could use to find a wealth of information.

    Fred
     
    Fred McKenzie, Dec 3, 2006
    #9
  10. "Ken Weitzel" <> wrote in message
    news:zZoch.411882$R63.269149@pd7urf1no...

    > Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...
    >
    > Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    > even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    > might not be a coincidence...
    >
    > It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    > regulator, is it? :)


    Sounds like a split 240 generator. Perhaps the regulator connections got
    switched to the 240 leads instead of the 120 leads?
     
    Homer J Simpson, Dec 3, 2006
    #10
  11. James Sweet Guest

    Homer J Simpson wrote:
    > "Ken Weitzel" <> wrote in message
    > news:zZoch.411882$R63.269149@pd7urf1no...
    >
    >
    >>Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...
    >>
    >>Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    >>even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    >>might not be a coincidence...
    >>
    >>It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    >>regulator, is it? :)

    >
    >
    > Sounds like a split 240 generator. Perhaps the regulator connections got
    > switched to the 240 leads instead of the 120 leads?
    >
    >
    >



    Wouldn't they only go to the 240 leads? If that output is correct, the
    120 should be as well.
     
    James Sweet, Dec 3, 2006
    #11
  12. "James Sweet" <> wrote in message
    news:4Avch.3283$H22.203@trndny09...

    >> Sounds like a split 240 generator. Perhaps the regulator connections got
    >> switched to the 240 leads instead of the 120 leads?


    > Wouldn't they only go to the 240 leads? If that output is correct, the 120
    > should be as well.


    You'd think but who knows? Without a circuit it's hard to diagnose.
     
    Homer J Simpson, Dec 3, 2006
    #12
  13. Bill Jeffrey Guest

    I have no experience with a generator of this size, so this may not be
    relevant.

    When my 2500-watt generator suddenly quit, I opened up the end bell and
    found that there were a pair of stud-mounted power diodes inside. One
    of the diodes had shorted, with the result that there was zero voltage
    at the output. I'm not sure of the function of the diodes, but I think
    they provided DC (unipolar) excitation to the field coils.

    My generator was 120VAC only (no 240VAC). Perhaps yours has lost one
    side of the 240VAC excitation, resulting in half voltage somehow.

    Just FWIW.

    Bill
    --------------------------

    James Sweet wrote:

    > Homer J Simpson wrote:
    >
    >> "Ken Weitzel" <> wrote in message
    >> news:zZoch.411882$R63.269149@pd7urf1no...
    >>
    >>
    >>> Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...
    >>>
    >>> Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    >>> even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    >>> might not be a coincidence...
    >>>
    >>> It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    >>> regulator, is it? :)

    >>
    >>
    >>
    >> Sounds like a split 240 generator. Perhaps the regulator connections
    >> got switched to the 240 leads instead of the 120 leads?
    >>
    >>
    >>

    >
    >
    > Wouldn't they only go to the 240 leads? If that output is correct, the
    > 120 should be as well.
     
    Bill Jeffrey, Dec 3, 2006
    #13
  14. In article <LBEch.15611$YV4.12081@edtnps89>,
    "Homer J Simpson" <> wrote:

    > You'd think but who knows? Without a circuit it's hard to diagnose.


    Homer-

    If you're interested, an owner's manual with a circuit that may be
    similar to this one, can be found at
    http://www.generac-portables.com/data/pdf_files/gen/1019_1enw.pdf

    The file is a little over a megabyte.

    Fred
     
    Fred McKenzie, Dec 3, 2006
    #14
  15. Guest

    Fred McKenzie wrote:
    > In article <LBEch.15611$YV4.12081@edtnps89>,
    > "Homer J Simpson" <> wrote:
    >
    > > You'd think but who knows? Without a circuit it's hard to diagnose.

    >
    > Homer-
    >
    > If you're interested, an owner's manual with a circuit that may be
    > similar to this one, can be found at
    > http://www.generac-portables.com/data/pdf_files/gen/1019_1enw.pdf
    >
    > The file is a little over a megabyte.
    >
    > Fred

    Thank you Fred. I have the parts and exploded diagrams for this unit.I
    have schamatics for it also. The problem is I know just enough about
    electricity to be dangerous. For instance the specs given for the
    windings. I have an ohmmeter and can read it, I just don't know where
    I'd attach it to get the readings. In the process of replacing the
    voltage regulator I unscrewed the brushes assembly for access to attach
    2 wires from the voltage regulator, and I think I seated the brushed
    right. I will check this tomorrow, Monday. Thank you all.
     
    , Dec 4, 2006
    #15
  16. In article <>,
    wrote:

    > ...... I have an ohmmeter and can read it, I just don't know where
    > I'd attach it to get the readings. In the process of replacing the
    > voltage regulator I unscrewed the brushes assembly for access to attach
    > 2 wires from the voltage regulator, and I think I seated the brushed
    > right. I will check this tomorrow, Monday. Thank you all.


    One thing I forgot to mention, was that your symptoms might be caused by
    having the Idle Control Switch turned ON. With no load, the engine goes
    to a lower RPM, perhaps equivalent to 40 Hz, and voltage goes down
    somewhat.

    Do you have capability to measure frequency or RPM? The generator
    probably runs at 3600 RPM to produce 60 Hz. (Some run at 1800, but I
    don't think yours does.)

    A problem measuring resistance of generator windings, is that the
    resistance is so low that meter leads and their contact resistance can be
    a higher value than the winding being measured!

    The brushes ride on slip rings, which are connected to the rotating field
    winding. You can measure field resistance by disconnecting the regulator
    and measuring across the brushes. If resistance is too high, it could be
    a problem with the brushes as well as the winding. With the brush
    assembly unscrewed, you may be able to probe the slip rings directly.

    The main winding connects via circuit breakers to the electrical outlets.
    A 240 Volt outlet will have connections to the three main wires
    (120-0-120). I don't know how much influence the breakers would have on
    the measurements.

    The excitation (DPE) winding connects to the regulator module as I recall.

    Fred
     
    Fred McKenzie, Dec 4, 2006
    #16
  17. Guest

    Bill Jeffrey wrote:
    > I have no experience with a generator of this size, so this may not be
    > relevant.
    >
    > When my 2500-watt generator suddenly quit, I opened up the end bell and
    > found that there were a pair of stud-mounted power diodes inside. One
    > of the diodes had shorted, with the result that there was zero voltage
    > at the output. I'm not sure of the function of the diodes, but I think
    > they provided DC (unipolar) excitation to the field coils.
    >
    > My generator was 120VAC only (no 240VAC). Perhaps yours has lost one
    > side of the 240VAC excitation, resulting in half voltage somehow.
    >
    > Just FWIW.
    >
    > Bill
    > --------------------------
    >
    > James Sweet wrote:
    >
    > > Homer J Simpson wrote:
    > >
    > >> "Ken Weitzel" <> wrote in message
    > >> news:zZoch.411882$R63.269149@pd7urf1no...
    > >>
    > >>
    > >>> Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...
    > >>>
    > >>> Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    > >>> even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    > >>> might not be a coincidence...
    > >>>
    > >>> It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    > >>> regulator, is it? :)
    > >>
    > >>
    > >>
    > >> Sounds like a split 240 generator. Perhaps the regulator connections
    > >> got switched to the 240 leads instead of the 120 leads?
    > >>
    > >>
    > >>

    > >
    > >
    > > Wouldn't they only go to the 240 leads? If that output is correct, the
    > > 120 should be as well.


    Bill says maybe I lost half my excitation. That's exactly what I'm
    thinking. Do I need to run the generator to flash the fields? I'm
    thinking I disconnect the leads from the volage regulator @ the brushes
    so I don't burn it out and take a 12v battery, connect the ground to
    the chassis and the positive to one of the brushes for a second and
    then do the other brush. If I understand what they are saying on
    smokestak. Or maybe someone can walk me through flashing the fields so
    both are remagnitized, and I'll run it for an hour to get the magnetism
    to stay??
     
    , Dec 9, 2006
    #17
  18. <> wrote in message
    news:...

    > Bill says maybe I lost half my excitation. That's exactly what I'm
    > thinking. Do I need to run the generator to flash the fields? I'm
    > thinking I disconnect the leads from the volage regulator @ the brushes
    > so I don't burn it out and take a 12v battery, connect the ground to
    > the chassis and the positive to one of the brushes for a second and
    > then do the other brush. If I understand what they are saying on
    > smokestak. Or maybe someone can walk me through flashing the fields so
    > both are remagnitized, and I'll run it for an hour to get the magnetism
    > to stay??


    I would have great difficulty believing you need to flash any field magnet
    these days - this isn't a Model A Ford. Look elsewhere.
     
    Homer J Simpson, Dec 9, 2006
    #18
  19. James Sweet Guest

    wrote:
    > Bill Jeffrey wrote:
    >
    >>I have no experience with a generator of this size, so this may not be
    >>relevant.
    >>
    >>When my 2500-watt generator suddenly quit, I opened up the end bell and
    >>found that there were a pair of stud-mounted power diodes inside. One
    >>of the diodes had shorted, with the result that there was zero voltage
    >>at the output. I'm not sure of the function of the diodes, but I think
    >>they provided DC (unipolar) excitation to the field coils.
    >>
    >>My generator was 120VAC only (no 240VAC). Perhaps yours has lost one
    >>side of the 240VAC excitation, resulting in half voltage somehow.
    >>
    >>Just FWIW.
    >>
    >>Bill
    >>--------------------------
    >>
    >>James Sweet wrote:
    >>
    >>
    >>>Homer J Simpson wrote:
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>"Ken Weitzel" <> wrote in message
    >>>>news:zZoch.411882$R63.269149@pd7urf1no...
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>>Just playing the devil's advocate for a moment...
    >>>>>
    >>>>>Difficult to tell where any of us are in the world, so can't
    >>>>>even guess at where you might be, but those just about 1/2 voltages
    >>>>>might not be a coincidence...
    >>>>>
    >>>>>It's not possible that you're in the UK and bought a North American
    >>>>>regulator, is it? :)
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>Sounds like a split 240 generator. Perhaps the regulator connections
    >>>>got switched to the 240 leads instead of the 120 leads?
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>Wouldn't they only go to the 240 leads? If that output is correct, the
    >>>120 should be as well.

    >
    >
    > Bill says maybe I lost half my excitation. That's exactly what I'm
    > thinking. Do I need to run the generator to flash the fields? I'm
    > thinking I disconnect the leads from the volage regulator @ the brushes
    > so I don't burn it out and take a 12v battery, connect the ground to
    > the chassis and the positive to one of the brushes for a second and
    > then do the other brush. If I understand what they are saying on
    > smokestak. Or maybe someone can walk me through flashing the fields so
    > both are remagnitized, and I'll run it for an hour to get the magnetism
    > to stay??
    >



    If you lost half excitation, I'd go looking for a bad diode.
     
    James Sweet, Dec 9, 2006
    #19
  20. In article <>,
    wrote:

    > Do I need to run the generator to flash the fields? I'm
    > thinking I disconnect the leads from the volage regulator @ the brushes
    > so I don't burn it out and take a 12v battery, connect the ground to
    > the chassis and the positive to one of the brushes for a second and
    > then do the other brush.


    Ellombris-

    NO. When the field needs to be flashed there is no output at all. If
    there is ANY residual magnetism, there will be output, and almost
    instantly it will build up to full value when you start the generator.

    Something else is causing your problem.

    Could it be the Idle Control switch is set to the "ON" position? That
    would give your symptoms until you connect a load to the generator
    output. If you connect a light bulb to the generator, does it light to
    full brightness, or barely at all?

    The diodes that rectify field current are in the module you replaced.
    Unless it has an open diode, it is unlikely to be the problem.

    When you installed the module, could you have connected the wires to the
    brush assembly backwards? According to the Clymer manual, the White
    wire connects to the positive brush, which is the one closest to the
    bearing.

    Fred
     
    Fred McKenzie, Dec 10, 2006
    #20
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