There are several approaches to 12V-PC running.
You need to consider if it is running in a car re voltage
o Cars can spike very high even in normal operation
o Particularly so on intermittent bad ground (battery = capacitor)
Two basic 12V PC PSUs exist
o Traditional ATX SMPS -- switch the 12V up to HV AC & back down
---- pro -- they can do 350W, anything you want
---- con -- they are often (very) expensive
o Laptop brick fed DC-to-DC convertor board -- convert 14-24V to 12/5/3.3V
---- pro -- they are cheaper, compact
---- con -- some can't power an ATX board, despite highish rating
The DC-to-DC convertor boards...
o Good efficiency 75-80-85%
---- you might get a bit better with pricey true industrial solutions
---- some PC104 solutions might give higher reliability if critical
o 55, 60, 70, 80, 110, 150, 170, 190W ratings
---- subject to the particular laptop brick you use
o Fanless, at least for the lower wattage items
---- some of the high wattage laptop bricks do have a fan
o Some can power ATX boards
---- however a P4-Prescott might be pushing it
---- if you need P4 in a car/12V-battery, the P-M is available
If it's a car application, remember shock figures are often for 1ms and
tight temperature environment re hard-drives (even 2.5"), so shockmount.
You can go down to <5W PC/104 boards, if needed for say 12V battery
life or use Mini-ITX cheapies, or forthcoming Nano-ITX which move the
consumer market closer to the embedded PC style at a lower price point.
--
Dorothy Bradbury
www.stores.ebay.co.uk/panaflofan for fans, books & other items
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dorothy...ry/panaflo.htm (Direct)